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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 6:48 pm
Posts: 381
Location: Stamford, CT
Id try a half turn richer on both SU's first and then 93 octane to see if it helps. Is there any play in your distributor shaft?

While I've had a number of bad experiences with pertronix (due to voltage fluctuations), I do remember the timing being slightly retarded after my install.

I used a harbor freight (:shock:) timing light with an advance knob on the back. I disconnected the vacuum advance, set the timing light to 36*, screwed in the idle screw till it was idling at 3000rpm and adjusted the distributor until the timing mark was at 0*. Total timing is more useful than initial timing because it shows how much timing youre running at speed. If youre at 8* initial(or whatever the FSM specifies) but your potentially tired, old distributor mechanical advance only adds 5*, you would only be at 13* total timing vs the 36-38* most moderate compression L series engines can run.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2018 9:00 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 344
Location: Ansonia, CT
Thanks porkbun!

I'll have to get me one of those lights as I have no clue where my timing is at 3000 RPM.

Right now the car runs well. Since installing the Pertronix, I put new NGK BP6ES plugs in gapped at .035", new rotor, new wires, and new cap. The distributor, while old, has no shaft play (wobble). My only issue now is the pinging I get under load in 3rd or 4th gear.

I discovered a while ago that my distributor had only one spring on the mechanical advance. It must have been that way since new since I am the original owner of the car. I recently got another spring from Vinny Bedini but that spring is a bit weaker than the one in the distributor. I have to get a pair of matched springs and install them to see if that straightens out the advance curve. I think it gets too far advanced at higher RPM.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 242
We'll John, what did you find out?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2018 10:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 344
Location: Ansonia, CT
I bought a new timing light and was able to check timing at idle and at 2000 rpm. I found timing to be too advanced at idle. I now have it set to 5 deg. BTDC at idle and 30 deg. at 2K. No more pinging, better acceleration but still have slight miss at low rpm under load. I think that is attibuted to erratic mechanical advance or wrong springs. I can live with it now. Heading to Motorfest 2018 early tomorrow about 325 miles. :thumbs_up:

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 4:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 242
Thanks for the update, I'm glad she's not pinging anymore, that's hard on the engine. If you are missing under part throttle/low rpm it's possible there may be an issue with the vacuum advance mechanism. Might be worth a look.

Regardless, have fun this weekend John! Safe trip.

Jay


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 344
Location: Ansonia, CT
Thanks Jay.
The car ran great on the drive to Rochester NY (343 miles).
Too bad you couldn't make this one. Weather is cooler and looks good for the Glen tomorrow.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2018 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
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Location: CT
Glad to learn you made it ok John; disregard my message on your phone ~ you just answered my questions! :wink: :thumbs_up:

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 07, 2018 12:14 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 242
I'm glad to hear you made it there safely and she's running well. Have a great time running Watkins Glen, that's a bucket list item for me!

The weather looks perfect this weekend, don't think you could buy weather any better!

Jay


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 11, 2012 6:48 pm
Posts: 381
Location: Stamford, CT
johnnyZ wrote:
I bought a new timing light and was able to check timing at idle and at 2000 rpm. I found timing to be too advanced at idle. I now have it set to 5 deg. BTDC at idle and 30 deg. at 2K. No more pinging, better acceleration but still have slight miss at low rpm under load. I think that is attibuted to erratic mechanical advance or wrong springs. I can live with it now. Heading to Motorfest 2018 early tomorrow about 325 miles. :thumbs_up:


Glad the adjustable timing light helped a bit! Id also be suspicious of the distributor at this point too. Any parts store should be able to order you a reman distributor for the next day for about $120 with no core charge if you decide to go that route. I'm not sure how/when you drive but does it also ping at night or early morning in the cooler air?


Frank_T wrote:
I also now have some mysterious 'missing coolant' issue which I haven't been able to trace completely. About a gallon of coolant suddenly disappeared from the radiator (but is not in the oil), resulting in rising engine temps. I am hoping it was just my radiator cap allowing it to blow-over, but the cap is reasonably new.

Frank what coolant mix and what thermostat temperature are you running? There is an extensive thread on hybridz that I was just reading through about cooling and your post reminded me of this one. The thread can basically be summed up as:

"The path of coolant through the L engines results in the rear of the head receiving the hottest coolant having stagnated water flow, insufficient for the heat produced in the rear two cylinders and hence having the highest operating temps.

This can result in nucleate boiling at the rear of the head which can create a vapor barrier that slows the absorption of heat from the head to the coolant, making the #5 and 6 cylinders most likely to detonate."


Which is why a lot of people will drop valve seats(*hand raise*) or blow head gaskets on cyl 5 and 6. Remedies include:

"1) Drill and tap above the #5 and 6 exhaust ports and route coolant to the thermostat housing generally below the thermostat to retain it's control on proper warmupto improve the flow of coolant at the rear of the head. Some have gone further and include #3 and 4, and some have even tapped all 6.

2) A higher pressure radiator cap can help reduce nucleate boiling.


3) The L28 diesel water pump can be made to fit and improves coolant flow.

4) Tapping and plugging the block to stop coolant flow from bypassing the thermostat (and hence radiator) helps devote more flow THRU THE ENGINE, but make sure that some path exists during warmup the #1 mod above is done to avoid water pump cavitation before the thermostat opens.

5) Non-aqueous coolant helps preventchanges when nucleate boiling occurs, and generally results in much higher operating temperatures across the board which may have other detrimental under-hood effects.

6) Water wetter seems to help in most cases,through decreasing surface tension of the coolant, very similar to a higher pressure radiator cap not so much in others."


I think I heard some pinging at high speed/high load the other day so I'm going to try a 160*F thermostat and some water wetter. If that doesnt work ill swap caps for a higher pressure unit I think mine is 11 or 13#s?

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71' 240Z: HLS3040666

Albums:
https://plus.google.com/+FlyingAero
Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/user/FlyingAero


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