Well during my whole trip to NY I had oil dripping on my feet, and I just thought it was the PB blaster I sprayed on the top bearing of the steering shaft......well Tuesday morning when I left my cousins house to go see mom, I had NO clutch pedal, fluid was Gone. (Slave is new,) but the master was blowing fluid right out, so just adding fluid did not work. The junk yard had no Z's, every time I'm there, there is at least one Z in there when I don't need anything, but nothing. Well Son of a Gun, Auto Zone had one for $30 and change. Made it to the parts store, then to Moms house where I worked on it. well here's another kicker, the shaft was to SHORT. So I took moms car down to this nut and bolt place that has EVERYTHING imaginable. so I found a nut sleeve that fit the MC shaft, then a short stud to fit in that, and wa la, perfect fit, job well done. Then Murphy gets me again.....I notice oil seeping from the oil cap, so I go to tighten it and it snapped off, now I had a very big vacuum leak that could spooo oil all over the place. So off to the junk yard, no Z's of course, and would you believe NOTHING from Nissan had the same thread pattern. (brought the old piece of thread thank God,) and would you believe a HONDA oil cap fit perfect. Shewwwwww, i made it home.

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.

You truly are a Master Mechanic.

WAIT!!! DON'T GET RID OF THE AUTOZONE CLUTCH MASTER!!!!!!!


I ran into the same problem. For some stupid unknown reason they changed the shaft length to a shorter one, but this is easily remedied. Just take both the circlips off each master cylinders so you can swap the shafts. They will need to be out of the car to do this. Its literally that easy.

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-Chris

The Auto Zone one is in there, I did think of swapping shafts, but we're talking basic tools at my Mom's house, plus I didn't want to mess with the warranty. I Improvised. The sleeve looks like 4 nuts attached together, I forget what they called it, kinda like a turn buckle I guess, then a 1 inch stud, It's actually perfect, and I could even adjust it out more if I had to. This is how it will now remain as long as it lives. Of course I'll keep the old one just because. P.S. Thanks for the kind words Frank.

All I know is that when I tried using the short shaft in combination with my (upgraded) clutch, the clutch would not disengage properly. Even adjusted fully outward on the rod, the clutch pedal was in the wrong position.

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-Chris

ummmm, you do know about the different length throw out bearing sleeves? Well mine works better than it did and I'm sure glad it didn't happen on the Watkins Glen track.

Yes, even with the proper throwout bearing sleeve the clutch still couldn't fully disengage.

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-Chris

Do you have play in the clutch pedal? Sounds like it's adjusted out to far? Unless you resolved this already?

Oh, its already been resolved a long time ago. The clutch was a 300zx/280zxt 240mm clutch which required me to switch out to the 280zxT throwout bearing sleeve. At the same time I decided to replace the master and slave cylinders with ones I had bought from Autozone a while back but found that the new connecting rod was too short, so I just swapped in the old rod to the new master cylinder.

easy fix, but it was annoying to find out that you have to swap out rods on a supposedly new and 100% OEM and correct master cylinder.

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-Chris