My '93 looks pretty good from 10 feet away, but close up the 16 year old paint as a few imperfections from age. Especially water spots and some swirls from years of washing and waxing.

I have clay barred the car and it stills needs more help. As I research on the web, and read the instructions of misc. products, can anyone offer some suggestions on:

-Polish Products
-Random Orbital or High Speed Buffer
-Techniques

I do know a professional detailer which will do a great job for 100's of $$$. But I enjoy doing things on my own and am willing to take my chances on the results I might get good or bad. I am pretty cautious and work slow and methodically.

Let me know what has worked for you.

Thanks - Keith

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Keith Hultmark
2009 370Z Touring - Sold (5 years owned)
1993 300ZX - Sold (5 years owned)
1976 Porsche 912E. #163 of 2200 - SOLD (3 years owned)
2018 BMW 330i GT xdrive daily driver
2004 BMW Z4 3.0i ….it is a Z

Keith,

I asked a similar question of Peter Ricardi of the NJZCC a couple years ago. He had the awesome green 280 at our Fall Outing. Here is what he had to say:

Hey Ross:

Sure I'll be glad to share some wax info. Here's what you do if you want the best results:

Buy a clay bar, you can get it at most auto stores. It's about $20 for a good one. The clay bar will get out imbedded dirt, grime, stuff, etc....
1) Wash your Z, let it dry.
2) dip clay bar in water, you can use very little soap but not necessary (car wash soap) and rub it over the body until you feel that it is a little tough to wipe. You'll be amazed how dirty the clay bar will be. Plus it strips off old wax. Most important it's harmless to your paint. A lot of body shops use it for over spray, etc.
3) Wipe it down with water, let it dry.
4) Pick up Meguiars # 2 Fine Cut Cleaner about $9.00 Very mild, will not harm your paint.
5) Use a buffing machine, any kind is fine. Black & Decker, Sears....
6) After you buff it on & off, use clean terry cloth towel and wipe it down.
7) Buy Meguiars car polish, put in on by hand, on & off. Easy to work with.
Final step - wax it. There are several waxes on the market that are very good: Meguiars # 26, Formula 113 <--Not in auto stores on line only @ www.formula113.com I usually wax & polish by hand only.

After about 4 hours you'll need a beer, but you car will look showroom clean!
You can even use the wax on your Black bumper guards. It gets them real shinny. If there dull you may have to do it a few times. After your done, wax it once a month or more and you'll get that thick blazing plastic look....

That's about it.....


Peter

ok..
first of all Nissans r painted using baked enamel..
im sure this is still the case for the late nissans too..
Problem is you cant buff it too a like new finish..

best thing u can do is keep the paint clean and hand polish it with a "polishing wax"..
u can try using cutting compound but can take a bit to get the shine back.
if your using or want to get a buffer u want one with a slow speed...
i mean real slow.. having a dial is best.
keep working it and dont stay in the same place too long..come back to it.
stay awat from edges too as these r easy to go through the paint.

buffing heats the paint and the surface so keep it moving..
if possible only use a GENUINE lambs wool buff pad..
not these cheapy fake wool...trust me..go real wool..

theres a little info..let me know if u need more advice..
obsidianpete

Just wipe it down with WD-40. There is a product out there that is a paint protector and shine, but it's not wax, and it makes sense that wax gets hot under the sun and further attracts dust, so instead of wiping the dust off you end up scratching the paint. (it's somewhere's in my favorite list, )

3m makes a good buffint compound i believe and a decent orbital buffer will do. go light on your compound and whirl it around . dont stay in 1 spot to long or you will burn a hole in the paint. and dont stay on edges for the same reason.

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-Dave

Also keep in mind that the type of pad you are using on a buffer also denotes the "bite" it will have. From what Bob has taught me from our local Levine Automotive and Paint, the most aggressive pads to use are genuine wool (looks like a tightly woven mop) and down to foam pads. I think terrycloth is somewhere in the middle, and microfiber at the softest.

So you have a lot more things to think about besides buffer speed and compound! Always keep the pad moving, and try to buff with a bias toward the leading edge. And tape up the corners and sharp edges of the body panels.

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-Chris

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Also Known As Clayton Pace

Hi Keith:
About two months ago - my 72 Datsun 510 S/W was starting to look pretty poor... The car has it's original factory applied Orange paint - on all but the hood, left front fender and left front door...

It was starting to look water stained, fine scratches and swarl-marked - plus being more than a bit dull.

I used a relatively new product - new to me anyway - Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It came in an all Black plastic bottle....

I've used Meguiars productes for decades and decades, along with many other top brand name products.

To tell you the truth - I WAS AMAZED at the job this Ultimate Compound did - I applied it entirely by hand - although you can use a buffer with it. It made the 37 year old paint look like new - it is simply amazing...

I'd recommend that you give it a try - then follow it up with Meguiars Cleaner/Polish - and finally wax.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Thanks everyone.....this seems to have come alive again. My original post was in January. Since then I bought a porter cable multi speed random orbital machine and gently tested 3M compound on on my rear hatch lid. Cleared the water spots and most of the swirls. I have not gone much further than that. I think I'll revisit again this winter....

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Keith Hultmark
2009 370Z Touring - Sold (5 years owned)
1993 300ZX - Sold (5 years owned)
1976 Porsche 912E. #163 of 2200 - SOLD (3 years owned)
2018 BMW 330i GT xdrive daily driver
2004 BMW Z4 3.0i ….it is a Z

Mothers.

I used it on my Volvo (and other vehicles), just hand polishing and it made a huge difference. I also have had practice and I own "The Ultimate Detailng Projects" by Jacobs Jr. and Date. Good book.




Sorry, no Z pics. That paint is a lost cause.