If you were not at the club meeting last night, you missed an EXCELLENT discussion & presentation by Bob Nelson on how to restore early wood-type Z steering wheels. I have cut and pasted his hand-out below, which I think you will find to be invaluable should you ever decide to do this yourself. Thanks Bob!!!

Datsun 240Z Simulated Wood Wheel Restoration

Materials Needed
(1) Paint pre cleaning solvent (quart is the smallest available but is also good for many other detailing purposes). One roll of paper towels, Bounty or another good brand. The better brands seem to contain less lint.
(2) 3m red scuff pad 1
(3) 1 roll 3M 3/4 inch masking tape
(4) Ajax kitchen cleanser (dry powder)
(5) 180 grit dry sandpaper 5 sheets
(6) 400 grit wet & dry sandpaper 2 full sheets
(7) 2000 grit wet sandpaper 1 sheet
(8) SEM Etching Prime (Black) # 39673 comes in 12 Oz. can
(9) SEM Trim Black # 39143 comes in 12 Oz. can
(10) Mohawk Aerosol wiping stains. I use dark red Mahogany M145-2276 and medium walnut M145-02056. It comes in 13 ounce aerosol cans.
(11) Urethane clear coat. I have used DuPont super productive "snap" clear with excellent results, it is easy to use and fast drying. The DuPont # is 7776 and the hardener is 7765. One quart is the smallest size available.

You will also need the matching hardener that comes in a 1/2 pint size. If you do not have spray painting equipment, US chemical makes a Catalyzed Urethane in Aerosol under the name Spray Max.

The pre cleaning solvent, wiping stain and clear coat are the minimum amounts they are sold in. I have been able to do 6 steering wheels so far with these amounts.

Datsun 240Z Simulated Wood Steering Wheel Restoration (Procedure).

(1) Using a Philips head screw driver remove the 2 Philips head screws holding the horn button to the steering wheel and the 1 Philips head screw holding the ground wire to the horn ring; put these in a safe place. Zip lock sandwich bags are my favorite.
(2) Cut the 3M scuff pad in 1/2 and thoroughly scour the outer "wood" portion of the wheel using the Ajax and water. Remember you are removing 30 plus years of sweat, oil from the palms of your hands and Armor All or other types of interior dressings that have been applied to it over the years.
Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly, clean paper towels and an hour in the sun should be fine.
(3) Using the 3/4 inch masking tape protect the "wood" portion of the wheel where they meet the 3 metal spokes in preparation for sanding the spokes
(4) Using paper towels one wet one dry wipe the metal spokes with the pre paint cleaning solvent.
(5) Depending on the condition of the black metal spokes of the wheel you will be either scuffing with the scuff pad or removing all of the paint from the surface of them with the 180 grit sandpaper (or a combination of the two).

Extremely deteriorated spokes can be bead blasted to remove all the paint and rust. All of the spokes should be completely dull front and back when done.

(6) Remove the Tape from the "wood" portion of the wheel.
(7) Apply tape to the metal spokes completely covering them and the hub
(8) Using the 180 dry sand paper sand the "wood " portion of the wheel always sanding with the grain (clockwise or counter clockwise) being careful to not sand through the outer coating, final sanding will be done with the 400 grit wet sandpaper to smooth the surface prior to the colored stain application.
(9) Wipe the outer wheel with a clean damp paper towel and then a dry one to remove any sanding residue.
(10) Allow the wheel to dry thoroughly (several hours or overnight is best) before applying the stain.
(11) I apply a light coat of the walnut stain allowing it to dry before applying the next then follow with the mahogany stain. While the Mahogany stain is still wet I use a towel that I have applied the Mahogany stain to and rub it into the surface .This gives a more realistic wood grain appearance. When you are satisfied with the appearance and color allow it to dry 30 minutes before applying the clear coat.
(12) Mix and apply the clear coat, I clear the front first and then the rear allowing the clear to be dry to the touch between coats (only touch the tape not the actual wheel surface).
(13)Allow the clear coat to dry at least two days before painting the metal spokes.
(14) After two days the clear coat should be "rock" hard. Remove the tape from the metal spokes and apply fresh tape to protect the newly refinished "wood portion of the wheel. I start with the areas closest to the spokes and then move to the outer wheel.
(15) Using the pre cleaning solvent wipe the metal spokes before applying the SEM self etching primer, apply two to three light full coats of primer to the metal spokes of the wheel .When these coats have dried fully (usually a few hours but overnight is best) lightly sand the prime with 600 grit sandpaper using it dry .This is to remove any dust specks or other imperfections prior to the application of the final black finish coat.
(16) Using the SEM Black Trim paint , again using light full coats apply 2-3 coats to the metal spokes .After this has dried (about 2 hours ) remove the tape from the outer "wood" portion of the wheel .
(17) Allow the wheel to dry completely before reinstalling in the car to avoid any fumes that may continue to be given off by the paint until it is thoroughly cured. Any minor imperfections in the clear coat can be spot sanded with the 2000 grit sandpaper and compounded if necessary.


By Bob Nelson jellobob777@aol.com
6/2008

This was a GREAT presentation and I learned a lot in the brief time Bob had the floor. He made it look and sound simple, but his results were amazing.

I really appreciated how he chose several steering wheels in various stages of completion to demonstrate the step-by-step procedure. If I tried this and messed it up, he said I could ship the wheel to him and get it back 100% perfect for only about $250. His wheels look better than the wheels did on the new Series-1 cars, as they were sold from the dealer.

Thanx Bob, especially for explaining why we should do the spokes first and the rim last (and for using 1970 and '71 wheels to demonstrate with!)

And by the way folks ~ after the show Bob confessed to owning HLS30-00033, the earliest 240 our club has been associated with so far. (Glad it's in NJ ~ so mine remains the 2nd oldest Z in CT!)