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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 9:56 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 385
Location: Ansonia, CT
Nice Ride! Love the old Z's. Like the 5 slots too. I had them on my car as the first upgrade. After many years, I had to replace them (Ansen Sprints) as they became a bit porous and leaked air. Have Fun and drive the heck out of it!

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John Kish
1971 240Z original owner


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
There is some rust of course. I take some pics. Rear pump is not working. Tech doesn't work either. Guess i'll jump the relay, then if that doesn't work jump the pump till a new comes in. What sre the pumps that make the clunka clunka sound. I love that.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 5:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 273
On my 260z I removed the electric pump and just run the mechanical pump, like the earlier 240zs. Works fine for me.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
The ClunkaClunka (or TickaTicka) pumps are called diaphragm pumps. They work exactly like your mechanical pump, except they operate electrically. An electromagnetic contact momentarily pulls the diaphragm up (or down) then releases it, allowing the spring to return it to normal position. Each movement of the diaphragm either sucks fuel into, or pumps fuel out of, the pump housing.

The vane type pumps have a spinning impeller inside which constantly pushes fuel forward until it meets resistance (full carbs), at which time another valve opens and returns the unwanted fuel back to the tank. They "whirrr" softly and cannot be heard if anything else is happening.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
yeah but where do I buy one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVuSf6tkfpQ

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 6:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
Ohhhhh, what a great way to wake up.
Thank you for that.

Frank

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 23, 2017 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
That's a pretty good YouTube channel. Starting to sell out but... z specific.

https://youtu.be/EO2y_-vpolA


https://youtu.be/O8uuuBOWI6Q

https://youtu.be/eDUkBpn_R6M

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Thanks everyone for the comments. I've been looking the car over dor the last week since i've hade the car and have no buyers remorse. Which i always have. I'll get some more pictures of the car posted. I did pullout the rear fuel pump and route the lined through the rear filter in the back. I've tried to test the rear pump by hooking it up to a battery i have laying around and it does nothing. Is there another test for the pump? I did order an electronic pump and a new mechanical from zcardepot, also order the big tuneup kit, wires and shifter bushings from thezstore. I do think the radiator has many small leaks but now fluid is hitting the ground. Going to top off the tranny and diff oils and drive the piss out of this thing to try to get these carbs to clean themselves out. Marvel Mystery Oil be my guide. She doesn't like partial and fuel throttle punches until she is fully warm, less fuss when the choke is on.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 3:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Well I finally found the rust. I've driven the car about 30 miles. I have found some extreme softness in the driverside floorboard running up behind the lower part of the frame rail. I would call this the pedal box. Car is sidelined. I'll take some pictures. Anyone know a shop that could do the pedal box and the driver side floor pan? I think there are to many curves for me to do this work?

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
The term "pedal box" actually refers to the steel cage which holds the pedals, themselves. That unit is removable and exchangeable and is rugged angle iron. Not so susceptible to rust, but the pedal hinge pins frequently wear oval-shaped, making the pedals (clutch especially) lift (engage) in jerky stages rather than smoothly.

I think you're referring to the driver's side footwell, which is a favorite rust area for the S30 cars. That's the whole box where your feet and the pedals live.

BadDogParts in Bedford Mass (run by our member John Jeffries) makes both frame rails and floor pan assemblies for replacing rusty areas of either footwell. Several of us have had to do that over the years. http://www.BadDogParts.com and John@BadDogParts.com

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 7:56 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Yes its the footwell. See pictures. I also think there is bondo in the floor support below the foot well right on the jack point.

Try this link. Pictures are to large.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7Vsq2EAZtN8bGN5elBROXFtdFk?usp=sharing

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
8) :thumbs_up:

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1970 240Z


Last edited by Frank T on Sun Oct 08, 2017 3:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
That's not horrible; we've all seen worse and some of us have driven with daylight showing up thru the floorboard. If you can stop and correct that rust now, there is every reason to expect a very long life for your Z. :thumbs_up:

Rust in that exact area is often caused by the windscreen wiper well draining directly onto the inner fenders and forward footwells (both sides). If they had channeliZed the rainwater completely under the car, that could have been avoided. Instead, there are two big holes on the sides of the car which simply drain rainwater into those exact corners. If you remove your fenders you will see those holes. The cars were designed to be fast, beautiful, and cheap and nobody expected them to last more than 10-15 years. Pity us who are trying to keep them alive 35-45yrs later.

The good thing about owning a Z today (as opposed to owning a new one back in the day) is that today's owners have the advantage of learning from history all the weaknesses of the cars and how to correct them. Parts are even made today which replace the entire weak areas of the original cars. It's relatively easy to restore an old Z today, compared to many other cars the same age. Cheaper, too.

As Bob Sharp once said, "metallurgy was never their strong point", and it applies to all the early S30 cars. Most of the sheet metal on our S30s is only 0.27" thick, and undercoating was a dealer option back in the 1970s. When you think about it critically, it's a wonder there are as many Zs left today as there are. Some drivers have referred to Datsuns as being made of "compressed rust"....an unkind exaggeration to be sure, but not real far from the truth.

BadDogParts isn't the only company which offers floorpans for us today. Shop around. When you get a set, there are several skilled Datsun pros who can install them for you if you don't like looking up into falling sparks and slag while doing it yourself. Vinny Bedini has installed many many floorpans, frame rails and doglegs over the decades. I forget where you said you are, but Vinny is in New Milford. Call him to discuss an appointment 860.355.182(nine). Tell him you're our member, as he is. He can give you a good estimate regarding time and expense.

As soon as your rust is repaired, I highly recommend undercoating the entire new surface. I used RhinoLiner truck bed spray. Be careful not to spray over rusted areas, or the destruction will continue without being seen.

Frank

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 1:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Am i on drugs or is the fuel line leaving the gas tank 5/16, but then the line from the hard line to the mechanical fuel pump 1/4"?

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 3:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
I never measured it, but I know my fuel line is several different diameters at different points along its route. I just figured it was a cheap way to make fuel line pressure?

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1970 240Z


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