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 Post subject: Looking for my First Z
PostPosted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Looking for my first z. Looking to spend between 4 and 8k. No V8's, 2+2's, or sunroofs. Would prefer no ac. I mostly desire a early small bumper 260z. Seems weird but I think the suspension and handling is alot better than in the 240 and HD8's would be in my future anyways. I would not say no to any 240 or 280 though. I've never driven a 280. I want a solid body. Or as solid as i can afford. I can do anything mechanical to a car. Would be nice it could move under its own power. But i wouldn't mind going through a car that has been sitting for a long time, one that runs like crap or has major mechanical issues. Interior... would like it to be present. Don't mind mold, ripped seats and bad carpets.

Let me know what you got.

Thanks
Bruce

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 02, 2017 8:22 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Come on need help someone has to know someone with a uncompleted project or some unloved car.

I'm a deserved car owner. Have garage, tools and skills.

I've arrived at wanting a z from my combination of experiences. I had to help my dad work on the family cars and also helped him out working on lawn mowers to make ends meets and to afford some extra cash for fishing or for his 1964 Malibu. When I was about 12 my brother got a 1969 Camaro. I tuned the to big carburetor and timing. Something I could do easily after reading years of Car Craft magazine. I did almost crash it as I only weight about 90 pounds and the car had manual brakes. I decided on the Z on a drive in my father in-laws 1967 427 4speed big block corvette convertible. After taking it on a nice windy drive I was cursing north on 3 to bring the car back from the cap cod canal, the sand matched the car, the car match the sky and I finally got use to the wallow of the suspension and the sound of the side pipes was visceral. I looked at the gas gauge and I had spend most of a tank in a couple of hours and in not enough miles. The design aspects and character of that car and the cars I've had went through my head processing the algorithm of cataloged knowledge. And I arrived at a Z. A car I had never driven before.

My first project car was a 1990 Eclipse. Imaging the disappointment. Bought it right after graduation and within a month I had done a lightened flywheel, bigger clutch, exhaust, turbo (ported myself), fuel pump, fuel computer and rebuild the head with stainless valves after breaking exhaust valves twice. Not surprisingly no one in the family wanted to lend a hand. I drive that car summer through winter. Nothing made my happier than driving that car from Western Mass to Misquamicut starting at 5 am. Or taking it to Mt. Snow in the winter. Rust got the better of her in the end.

At the same time I got a 1989 240sx single cam and loved it for 2 years. Bought it from a junkyard shortly after it was brought in and I was there parts diving for the eclipse. My pope showed me how to silver solder and I repaired all the EGR tubing and tuned the car. The car then suffered from a cracked head.

Then a built a 2000 A4. Gave it the treatment. RS4 clutch, ECS chromemoly lighted flywheel, lightened pulleys, Borla, A8 big brakes, H&R Race spring with ECS hats so I could raise the car to the proper height for a daily driver, and A6 2.7t wheels from a friend that I got in trade for doing his timing belt. I crashed this car with my wife. We are a dangerous combo. Wrong gear driving by ear. Only mistake I have ever made in a car.

All these cars I never put on a fin or spoiler or fart pipe. All sounded and felt as a car should and could be driven without fuss.

The dream build. 260Z. HD8 SU's, earlier E88 head from a 240z, smaller cam with a wide separation and late intake timing, a vintage sounding 3-2-1 exhaust, true magnesium minilites, small earlier bumpers (fiberglass only out a desperation maybe), and a BRE front air dam. Want to drive this from Northford to Montreal, watch a F1 race, drive to Nova Scotia and do the Cabot Trail in a real car. Not my TDI which I did it in the first time.

Thanks. Please help me find.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EO2y_-vpolA&t=105s

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 12:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12934
Location: CT
Our member Larry is selling his excellent 1985 300zx just now. It's the only Z I personally know of for sale at the moment.

The car belonged to our member Tom Wasney for years and Tom cherry-ed it out like he did all 22 of his previous Z cars. The Volvo bug bit him and he sold the zx to Larry. The car is a trophy winner and Larry says everything works. Digi-dash, grey leather interior, T tops don't leak (I know you didn't want them), bright red body in really good condition; a real eye-catcher. He has all the specs about the car ~ give him a call to see if you're interested in viewing and test driving it. Really fair price for the condition it's in.

Larry (203)-605-2140. Tell him I sent you.

Frank

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12934
Location: CT
We just received this notice from our member John T. who is the PreZident of the Z Car Club of Rochester. Many photos came with the notice but I'm not able to post them here.


1973 Datsun 240Z for sale

Description and History:
Purchased new September 1973, San Diego, California.
Original owner
Color - Blue
Standard transmission
No air conditioning
Moved to Rochester, New York August, 1974.
Driven ~ 5 months each year since 1974 – May – October.
Inside storage November – April.
No significant modifications
Routine maintenance performed
Mechanics records since May 2009 available
Radiator recored 2010
Custom rebuilt exhaust installed May, 2009 – None available in the market
Stripped and re-painted same color approximately 1995 (Austin-Spencer Collision)
No accidents
74,000 miles

Modifications:
Pull knobs for choke and hood release replaced with custom built metal units
Plastic ones didn't last

Issues:
Ammeter non-functioning
Original analog clock non-functioning
Classic split in dashboard driver's side

Work performed July-August 2017 (Austin-Spencer Collision)
Engine cleaned
Weather strips replaced
Inner sill plate driver's side replaced
Right fender repainted
Interior and exterior cleaned
Cracks in dash repaired
Underneath inspected re-treated as necessary
Spot rust repair,
engine area below battery,
driver's inner door

Asking price: $15,000

Contact information:
Larry Maier
585-482-3869
bubba@netacc.net

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 5:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2007 2:48 pm
Posts: 1637
Location: Groton, CT
Met a guy at a car show 2 weeks ago.
Selling a 1976 280z. No rust, less than 32k miles, papertrial from new
He's asking 14k. Robert, phone. 2.0.3.-895-6255

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Keith Hultmark
2009 370Z Touring - Sold (5 years owned)
1993 300ZX - Sold (5 years owns)
1976 Porsche 912E. #163 of 2200


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 5:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
I'm please to say I have purchased a early 1974 original owner 260z.


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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 9:38 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12934
Location: CT
Well congratulations! That engine bay looks to be bone-stock to me, which will make working on it a lot simpler than if someone had modified it.

The 260 was offered here in the USA only a single factory year, making it the rarest S30 bodied car made for us (The Aussies got the rhd 260 for many years). That makes parts pretty readily available if we don't mind paying overseas shipping costs. I expect 260 values to justifiably rise sharply soon. The 260 engine was arguably the best engine the early Z cars offered, being almost "square" in bore and stroke, which gave it more torque than the 240 and higher rpm redline than either the 240 or the 280. The 260 was also the first Z to offer 2+2 seating with A/C and automatic trans, making it a good 'family sportscar' momma could live with.

We have several happy 260 owners in this Club and some of them are busy contributors to this website. I expect you will make some new friends here who will help answer any questions you might have about your new 260.

Where did you find it? Show us some more pictures?

Frank

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
So far my only question is, how loud should the stock electric fuel pump be? I can't hear it at start up. And if i get an low pressure elvteix one is it safe to keep in the mechanical since the regulator is in it, it should be fine?

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12934
Location: CT
The Hitachi-SU carburetors on your 260 are called "flat tops" due to their difference from the earlier "round top" Hitachi-SUs. They were an emergency measure by Nissan to meet sudden US pollution requirements when the 260 began production. About the first half the 260s have flat-top SUs and early lightweight bumpers, and the later months 260s have fuel injection and impact bumpers.

While the flattops gave lower emissions, they had a tendency to percolate and vapor-lock when you shut off a hot engine. You would have to wait until the engine cooled down so the gasoline inside the fuel line re-converted from vapor back to liquid, then you could start your car. The factory and street owners tried numerous tricks to defeat that, including those insulated-foil-wraped fuel lines you see on your car and an electric pump back by the tank. Cars with the rear electric pump didn't need the mechanical pump so it got disconnected, but many times it was left attached to the engine. That doesn't hurt anything except that it uses a small bit of engine power to operate it for nothing, and adds unnecessary noise to the engine operation. An oil-tight cover plate is available in case you want to remove the mechanical pump.

The final remedy for the flattops ended up being either replacement with a set of the earlier round-top SUs (street remedy), a set of triple Weber racing carbs (a rich-boy remedy), or the new L-Jetronic fuel injection system (factory remedy on the final months of the 260).

The last electric fuel pump I had was on my '56 Austin Healey, and it clicked madly until it built up pressure at the carbs, then it stopped pumping and I heard nothing. Maybe you are maintaining good pressure against the carb float needles so the pump doesn't "say" anything when you start the car (?). As you use gasoline from the float bowls the pump would activate to replace it, but by then your car is running and you might not hear the pump over the exhaust. Fuel pumps are designed to be as quiet as possible so they aren't heard inside the cabin. My old Healy pump was the old diaphragm type which clicked up and down and could be heard across the parking lot. Bryan Little's car had a rotary vane pump which I could barely hear even when I was listening.

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1970 240Z


Last edited by Frank T on Mon Sep 18, 2017 1:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Yeah the front carb float is hanging with the needle being shut sumtimes. Other than that we'll see about vapor lock. I was going to do the tear pump just to be safe. The car has been sitting since 1990. The owner cleaned the tank and rebuild the carbs and head, stuck valve, and clutch cyclinders and the clutch becuase it was locked up.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 273
Hi! Congratulations on your Z. You'll love it I'm sure, my 260z has been in my life 18 years now.

My car, like yours, had sat for many years when I acquired it. Also, it was an unmodified car.

What I can tell you about the electric pump is that Datsun added that to try to help offset the vapor lock issue Z owners were experiencing. Also, if I remember right it does not operate until the engine is running. If you are listening for it before you crank it over you won't hear it. The mechanical pump is the primary one.

My flat tops had stuck floats also, I swapped them for round top SUs almost immediately.

Jay


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
I'm alittle torn. If i get everything nice and smooth I probably won't to mods for awhile. Unless i happen apon the parts i want. If i trip over a series 1 intake and some HD8 su's I'll seize the opportunity. The car was running so clean it tempting to leave it. It had passing emissions in 1990 low COx's. The exhuast smelt like a modern car.


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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 10:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:21 am
Posts: 756
Location: Somers CT
Nice looking car.
My first Z was an early 260 as well.
Good luck with it.

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12934
Location: CT
Awwww, that's purdy. Now I'm excited for you to get it on the road.

I am really happy to zee those 5-slot wheels on the car; in my humble opinion they are the only ones which look good enough to be on any S30. They should have been factory standard instead of dealer option.

Where's the rust? I don't see any rust?

Frank

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 273
That's a great looking car!!

I'd happily rock that as is, it's perfect. And I like the slots too. Also minilites with a wide profile.


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