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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 8:21 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:26 am
Posts: 219
Location: Jamestown, RI
1971 240z in Excellent Condition HLS3025007

I've never posted here before. I am a regular on zcar.com and hybridz.org. I met Paul from RI when I called on an ad he had for zcar parts for sale last spring. He told me about this club and I have spent a good amount of time here reading the forums. I was planning to attend some of the club meetings this coming season, but unfortunately due to unforeseen circumstances I must sell my car before then.

I originally bought it in 2001 from it's 2nd owner in Colorado. This was my 3rd Datsun and 2nd 240z. After owning a rusty 240z I knew I needed to find a car with no rust. This is the car I found that had virtually no rust. The car was rust proofed by Ziebarts when the car was brand new by the original owner and still has the Ziebart sticker on the radiator support. The only rust on the car was a little bubbling forming on the rear wheel well arch lips. I replaced the wheel arches with new metal and repainted the car in it's original orange color (918) in 2007. It is currently rust free and the paint still looks really nice. It has always been garaged since I have owned it. I have put about 19,000 miles on it in the last 12 years. The car odometer reads 71,895 today. I'm pretty sure it has gone around once though and actually has 171,895. I have kept it running well that whole time and has been driven every year except winters and rain. I have been caught in a couple unexpected rain storms though. Until last winter I kept it stock and original and enjoyed it. It had KYB Gas struts installed by the previous owner. It also came with 14x6 slotted mags. I'm not sure if they were installed by the dealer or by a previous owner. I still have them in storage.

This is a 1971 that has some series 1 and II parts. It has the early center console, E31 head and vertical defrost vents in the rear hatch. It doesn't have the rear hatch vents though.

Last winter I have changed a few minor things, that in my opinion make the car look and drive better. I installed 16x8 Rota RB-R's with 225/50-16 BFG g-force TA KDW-2 tires. The rims and tires have less than 1000 easy miles on them. I installed a Momo Protipo steering wheel and a 280z style 5-speed leather shift knob. The door weatherstripping is new. I installed eibach-pro kit lowering springs, new half-shaft u-joints and installed a BRE front spook and rear spoiler from Les at Classic Datsun. Also I installed a new antenna and Kenwood stereo deck. It already had the rear speaker box installed.

The interior is in great condition. The seats have always looked really nice, but I had them restored by a local upholstery shop to fix the support and a couple worn panels. Almost all the vinyl on the seats was retained except a couple panels were replaced. The dash has a half cap on it. It was like that when I bought it, so I assume the original dash underneath was cracked. I have recently bought and installed a Datsun Momo horn button from Japan. It is not the mostly white one. I hadn't seen this one before and wasn't cheap. The yellow Momo button just didn't look right to me. The carpet was replaced when I originally bought it in 2001. The windshield leaks a little bit on the lower drivers side. I was going to eventually fix it, but I try to never drive it in the rain anyway so it wasn't a big deal to me.

I installed a relay for the ignition system. This car always started right up with no problems. 2 years ago the original starter stopped working and I bought a replacement starter. After installing the new starter the car would click about 50% of the time I turned the key and would start fine the other 50%. After installing the relay it starts right up about 95% of the time but still clicks every once in a while. I think the replacement starters just aren't built that well. I planned on installing an original Datsun starter this winter. I also bought an additional ignition switch and matching lock set thinking that might be the problem. It wasn't.

I tuned it up this past spring and finally figured out the SU carbs. I bought a colortune that made it so much easier (for me at least). I could get it close before, but after using the colortune it has stayed in sync and plugs have stayed toasty brown since. I adjusted the valves, new plugs, cap, rotor, wires and coil.

The car still has its original motor, 4-speed transmission and r180 rear end installed. The motor runs great, but has a slow head gasket leak that has started recently. It is slightly seeping onto the outside of the block. The car doesn't smoke though. The previous owner said it was rebuilt in 1996. It wasn't a performance rebuild, just stock. It still has the original e31 head, exhaust manifold and original emission components. It has Crane Cams XR700 ignition and no points in the distributer. K&N air filter in the original orange air cleaner. The transmission shifts good excepts it will grind every once in a while while down shifting into second. I think the rear end internally is fine.

There is a little clunk that comes from the rear end. I thought it was a half shaft u-joint, but after changing them out it still clunks. I think it might be the transmission mount, diff mount, or possibly the rear strut insulator bushings (I have these, just haven't installed them yet).

When I installed the new rims and tires they rubbed the fender a quarter panel lips a little. I rolled the rear lips and it cracked the paint a little. It needs to be touched up. After that, I decided to just trim the lip a little on the front fenders. That worked much better.

When I installed the rear spoiler I removed the emblems from the rear deck lid. I installed new emblems on the back of the spoiler. There are still 2 small holes you can see on the deck lid. They are the holes the emblem pins go through.

The radiator has a small leak on the top of it. I think it's the original radiator. I have a 2 core aluminum champion radiator that goes with the car. I replaced the original metal fan with a later plastic one.

Brake pads were just replaced in the spring. I have an additional new set that are included.

The original steering wheel and horn button is included. It is in nice condition, but does have some scratches on the bottom wood part.

I have a whole bunch of paperwork and receipts that are included. From the previous owner and myself. The car doesn't currently have a title as RI doesn't issue titles. I have copies of the Colorado title from the previous owner and I still have the title from MA in my name, where I lived when I bought it. It is currently registered and insured with full coverage from Hagerty Insurance. Hagerty valued and insured it for $25,000 after there appraisal. I don't think it is worth that much though. I'm asking $12,500 as described above. I have tried to point out every issue I can think of so there won't be any surprises. It really is in great condition though. The last time I drove it was the end of October when I entered it in the Fort Adams car show in Newport, RI. It was in the foreign car class and it got second place.

The car is located in Jamestown, RI.

I have a whole bunch of other parts (mostly drivetrain) I could also include for an addition cost. My plan for this car was to to build a high horsepower car with all the supporting parts that would make a great street/autocross weekend toy. I have been accumulating parts over the last year or so to make it happen. Below are most of the parts I have. This is why I haven't dealt with any of the drivetrain stuff above. Actually, this is how I was going to deal with it. All parts were for a 400hp boosted L just under 3 liters.

Rebello assembled f54 stroker short block - offset ground l28 crank, copper o-ringed block, 240z rods, ARP rod bolts, ARP main bolts, JE Pistons, n BHJ damper, New main and rod bearings. All balanced and blueprinted by Rebello. With Rebello p90 head (see below) it will be exactly 8/1 compression ratio. Still on engine stand. $1400

P90 Head build by Rebello. Port and polished and flowed well. I can forward Rebello's flow sheet if you interested. Custom ground cam for boosted applications. Wide lobe seperation angle. 288 duration, 540 lift , 113 lobe seperation angle. New performance springs and valves. The intake ports were port matched to a custom aluminum sheet metal intake manifold. Chambers are polished. New. $1400

BHJ Damper with 8-rib pulley wheel. Brand new. $275

Turbo oil pump. Brand new. $75

Timing Kit. Brand new. $80

BHJ 36T trigger wheel. Brand new. $80

ARP head stud kit. Brand new. $100

MLS head gasket, .027. Brand new. $125

Custom aluminum sheet metal intake. 1.5" runners. Accufab 75mm throttle body. Siemens Deka 575 injectors rebuilt. Aluminum fuel rail that fits intake and injectors. $1200

Rotrex C38-81 supercharger. Includes remote oil cooler and traction fluid. Fitted, but unused. $1450 (If a lot of the other parts or the car sells 1st I will probably keep this for a future build)

240sx transmission mated to 280z bell housing/front transmission section. Already converted and ready to install. $400

2 - R200 differentials. One is at 3.54 non LSD. The other is the same I think, but I haven't opened it up yet. $150 each

Nissan T-5 Tranny. It has been partially disassembled to inspect. Previous owner said it shifted smooth. Comes with driveshaft and flywheel. $125

Powder coated R200 mustache bar. $100

280zxt cv axles. $125

280zxt companion flanges, with 280zxt stub axles. $90

280z stub axles. $90

1983 280zxt distributer used with New Maxima CAS. $125

280zxt distributer oil pump shaft. $85

280zxt oil pickup screen. $20

Regular oil pump shaft. $25

N42 Non-egr intake manifold. Complete with throttle body, injectors, fuel rails, heat shield, etc. $200

Godspeed intercooler. Heavy and well built. $100

Bryan Blake billet coil on plug bracket. Anodized black. Brand new. $90

Extra "Nissan OHC" valve cover. $80

280z oil pan. $30

Front engine/water pump cover. $35

280z rods. $15

14x6 slotted mags. Currently have old cracked Toyos mounted. $200

Pacesetter 1 5/8" 6-2-1 ceramic coated headers. Brand new. $185

I really don't want to sell any of this, but you do what you have to do. I have a family to support and cash is really tight right now. If someone wants just the car and not the parts that is fine. I would even consider a trade if it includes a substantial amount of cash with it. I am interested in any 240-280z's that need work. No rust buckets though. Also would consider a Porsche 928 5-speed. I had one of those before this Z and liked it a lot too. It's another car that is really undervalued for what it is.

If you're interested we can set up a call to talk.

Thanks,
Rob


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Rob
1971 240z


Last edited by rob240z on Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 10:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 14, 2008 10:55 pm
Posts: 1056
Location: NEW CITY, NY
glws, beautiful car.

That Rebello setup is tempting....

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Clive Bogle President - New York Z Car Club - NYZCC.COM
1971 240Z - LS1/T56
1974 260Z-L30
1976 Fairlady Z
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:17 pm 
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Have to agree with Clive. She's quite the looker. Good luck!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:31 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
The Z is tempting!

Frank

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:26 am
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Location: Jamestown, RI
Thanks for the compliments guys.

What does glws stand for?

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Rob
1971 240z


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:45 pm 
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Location: CT
Good luck with sale.

That head is a thing of beauty. I wish I still understood how to read flow charts ~ I had ONE lesson years ago and quickly forgot everything I heard.

Do you have a price list for all those goodies?

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 2:09 pm 
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Interested to see a price list too .

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Clive Bogle President - New York Z Car Club - NYZCC.COM
1971 240Z - LS1/T56
1974 260Z-L30
1976 Fairlady Z
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 5:47 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:26 am
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Location: Jamestown, RI
Thanks again for the kind words and the meaning of glws.

I initially wanted to offer all the parts to whomever was buying the car. My gut tells me that they will sell separately anyway though. I'll work on pricing for all the parts tonight and then update this thread with prices.

Thanks,
Rob

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1971 240z


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:23 pm 
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I'd want the car simply for the VIN.

I always thought Bond should have driven a Z.

Frank T

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:19 pm 
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Location: Jamestown, RI
Hi Guys,

I edited the original post to include prices for the parts. The head and short block were hard for me to come up with prices. I think they are priced to sell as they are well below what I paid. I think the rest of the parts are priced aggressively to sell too. Everything is cheaper than I paid for it all. Sounds crazy, but it all must be sold.

I'll take some pictures of the parts tonight and tomorrow and then post tomorrow.

Thanks,
Rob

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1971 240z


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:13 pm 
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Please pardon my ignorance, but I have a question about the Rotrex. I'm not familiar with them and just looked up a photo of one. Is it an actual supercharger, or a turbo charger ('blower')?

The technical difference btwn a supercharger and a blower is that the blower forces air (only) into the intake BEFORE the fuel system, and the supercharger compresses air AND FUEL (combined) and forces it into the engine, AFTER the fuel system.

In other words, a blower sits on top of the carburetor, and the supercharger sits btwn the carburetor and the engine. Either can be belt driven, but the blower can be exhaust driven (turbo charger).

I'm pretty sure the Rotrex is a turbo charger (blower), right?

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:37 pm 
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Location: Niagara falls, NY
Those headers...are they square port headers? Do they have a bung for an oxygen sensor?

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71 on a rotisserie, two more in pieces in my shed...and a 69 1600 waiting for me to get to it


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:39 pm 
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The main difference between a turbo and supercharger is that a turbo is spun/driven by exhaust gas and superchargers are spun/driven by the crank usually with a belt. There are different types of superchargers though. A Rotrex is a centrifugal supercharger and is very much like a turbo. The Rotrex is very unique in that it doesn't have gears inside it like most centrifugal superchargers do. It runs very quiet, spins very fast like a turbo, and is extremely efficient. They are my favorite type of power adder because I like the way NA engines sound a drive and to me this is the closest. It just makes the motor feel like it is much larger and powerful. In a very light car traction is an issue and you only need so much torque at low rpm. I think the way the rotrex builds power is perfect for a light car like our Z's. The superchargers you are talking about sounds like a roots style, the kind that used to be very popular in hot rods sticking through the hood. That type pulls the air through. Centrifugal superchargers and turbos blow it through.

Rob

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:33 pm 
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Mark,

Yes, these headers are for square port heads and they do have a bung for an o2 sensor. I bought these as recomended by Dave Rebello. He said that they performed very well on their high horsepower builds and they were better than the msa options. I had been searching for a Nissan Motorsports header with 1 3/4" primary for a while with no luck. Funny thing is, I had posted an ad on hybridz a while ago that I was looking for one. Right after I posted my car and parts for sale I got a pm from a member there that he is looking to sell one that has never been used. He said the chrome is peeling a little though. If anyone is interested in it I can get back in touch with him and see how much he wants.

Rob

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1971 240z


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:38 pm 
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BTW frank....as far as I ever knew, "blower" is just slang for a belt-driven supercharger. I've worked with two kinds of carbureted turbo systems....draw- through and blow-through, with the difference being as you described....one is a "wet turbo" design, where the fuel is mixed with air before the turbo, the other pressurizes the air first then pushes it through the carbs. Both systems were incredibly balky; a blow-through requires pressurization of the carbs and a draw-through has horrible lag as well as the entertaining ability to have the turbo explode if the car backfires into the "wet" turbo. Modern fuel-injected turbo systems like on the Z are blow-through, and the only supercharged setups I've seen on a z (I've only seen two) were fuel-injected and blow-through. My dad built carbureted blown funny-car motors when I was a teenager and they were draw-through (wet) setups but that's pretty old school nowadays. The other huge difference is that a draw-through setup can't be intercooled, which really limits the amount of boost you can use. That's acceptable on huge-displacement motors but our little z-motors need lotsa boost!

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