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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:21 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Alright, going through my flat top machine trying to get this thing to stop falling apart while it cold and full throttle. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and a new mechanical pump this weekend. I installed the fuel pressure gauge only a few inches from the pump and the needle bounces like mad. Between 2 and 6 psi. I'm going to move it around to check on fuel distribution not that I think I have a real problem. Just starting at the basics.

Also I did the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil and set the gap to the primary magnet to 0.014". I dusted off my dad's old sears craftsman engine analyzer and check the rpm and dwell. Tach doesn't work. The dwell measured 57. What should it be? My authentic 1977 Chiltons is on the way and the car came with the "Autobook" manual.

BRC

Side mote my user name maybe changing to S30BRC. Hope everyone confuses it with BRE.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


Last edited by eclipsedlife on Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:39 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 10:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:16 pm
Posts: 358
Location: Ansonia, CT
Hi BRC.

You have an S30 series car? Does it have points? My '71 240Z with points has recommended dwell of 35-41 degrees, point gap of .018-.022, Timed 5 degrees BTDC while vacuum line is plugged, engine warm. I have SU Round tops.

Not sure what model or year your car is.

PS, I use only NGK BP-6ES plugs. Other plugs don't run as well.

Most old Z's with carbs run like crap unitil warmed up.

Not sure if this helps.

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John Kish
1971 240Z original owner


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:48 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Its a early 260z. It has the stock electronic ignition. No points. It has to magnets. Its not the automatic setup. I was thinking about adjusting the second magnet to reduce the spark dwell timing to something more like 40. The 260z's do have a ignition control box by the fuses in the passenger foot well. Not sure what thing does. The plugs are NGK's from thezstore.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 09, 2017 11:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12810
Location: CT
:lol: ["Hope everyone confuses it with BRE"]. :lol: Haha! We'll try.

Three words about your complaints:

(1) Fuel pressure should be measured as close to the carbs as possible, since that's really the only place it matters. Some fluctuation is normal, but that close to the pump you would get wild readings because you're measuring pressure so close to the hi/lo source and it hasn't had time to build up in the fuel line yet, so you're actually measuring spurts of pressure, instead of constant pressure right outside the carbs. Try moving it downstream to the fuel rail area.

(2) I had Tach problems for years after swapping from the stock breaker-points ignition to electronic ignition (which no longer required an external ignition resistor). My Tach would lay at "0" for hours. On long drives the Tach needle rose slowly but steadily until it was pegged at 8,000 rpm, so it was getting a signal from somewhere, but it was unusable. When I cut the ignition the needle would fall back to "0" and start over again. Very weird.

When the stock resistor (which was no longer needed for the distributor) was re-installed, the Tach worked again. So the resistor isn't needed for the electronic ignition, but it doesn't hurt it, either. It is, however, needed to keep the Tach happy. Or, you might just have a dead Tach or an open circuit somewhere.

(3) Using the terms "full throttle" and "cold" in reference to a Z engine makes me grind my teeth. Please let it warm up first?

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 5:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
Posts: 54
Out of curiosity last night I removed the ignition control module the original owner had put in. E12-05K with the stock module he gave to me, E12-05 (The crusty aluminum type). And the dwell fell to 44. I also jumped the fuel pump reley that goes to the alternator. Nice to hear it finally. I did order some plugs for the air ports to eliminate the air pump.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 7:02 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
Posts: 248
I'm glad to hear your pump is working. So is there relay bad or is it not getting any power to activate it?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03, 2017 1:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 23, 2017 5:34 am
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Not sure. I think logically it is suppose to turn on when the motor spins 1200rpm. I could check it but i'm being lazy for now.

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Bruce - Early 260Z - 305 Light Blue Metallic - All Stock


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 5:19 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12810
Location: CT
["I did order some plugs for the air ports to eliminate the air pump"].

Ahhh, memories. Removing the air pump and air injectors was the first important thing I did to my 240. Back in those days there was no such thing as port plugs ~ I simply cut the tubes to 3", squashed them flat with vice grips, then curled them up like empty toothpaste tubes. :lol:

BTW, removal of the air pump changed my spark plug range a notch, from the recommended BP5ES to BP6ES NGKs to be happy, and it also ran better with a tad bit of choke applied (this, in warm and sunny Hawaii).

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 8:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2016 7:11 am
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Frank, that's basically the method I used on mine too. When I had the engine rebuilt the machinist resurfaced the manifold and cleaned up the air delete. :lol:


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