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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 9:28 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:34 pm
Posts: 41
Location: New York, NY
Hello fellow Z family members,

It has been a long while since I've posted. The trials and tribulations of trying to get my Z to run is a story in itself, but a discussion for another time when I can finally meet everyone again.

My power steering rack has sprung a leak. I was wondering what would be the best possible solution...rebuild the existing rack, or purchase a re-manufactured unit.

I can probably source a respectable rebuilder, but not sure if the rack is that old that it would be feasible to do so, not sure what's worn inside. if I was going to purchase a re-man unit, who would you suggest I purchase from and is there a particular brand to look for that have stood up?

Seems a lot of the aftermarket parts suppliers have a rack available. AutoZone, Summit...anyone have a preference?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!!!

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WaZZabi
...Rice burner with a Twist...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
Remind us what year Z you're driving now?

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2017 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:34 pm
Posts: 41
Location: New York, NY
81 Turbo Coupe. May production.

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WaZZabi
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
I don't have any personal experience with that, but I will offer some reasoning to consider. The power steering rack rebuild kit is listed at about $100, without replacement boots. I didn't find the price for boots but if yours are OK that's not a concern; if yours are worn, torn or leaking you can add that price to your cost, which would probably raise you up to about $150.

The whole remanufactured and guaranteed rack is just $235.

You have to remove and replace the whole unit regardless whether you rebuild the rack or buy another.

If you rebuild, you have to disassemble the rack (lengthy and messy job) and risk losing or damaging something while you're in there, or making a reassembly mistake (WITH YOUR STEERING :shock: ) and not knowing it until you replace it and drive the car. If it feels weird, you have nobody to ask about it and nobody to blame but yrslf. AND, you lose however much downtime it takes you to remove, disassemble, inspect, clean, rebuild and reinstall the unit yrslf, twice.

If you buy the complete rack from a company, it's guaranteed and it's *probably* rebuilt correctly, including any torque specs which might be important to correct function. A Re-Man unit will have been mic'd to ensure all tolerances and dimensions are within limits, while your original old parts will have worn against each other for 36yrs. Your rebuild might not even fix the leak, if it's a worn major part. The Re-Man will be guaranteed correct. If you put on a new rack and it feels weird or seeks out trees along the roadside, at least you have somebody to sue for the damages. If you do it yrslf, the whole cost is yours alone.

Removing the old one and replacing the new one might take you a weekend, but it's unlikely you will forget where parts go (OR LOSE THEM) in that short time. If you take the time to rebuild the whole rack yrslf, you might forget stuff or lose stuff or damage rebuild items and then you'll be in grief, and your car becomes a Hangar Queen on jackstands during a lot of good driving weeks until you sort it out or order new parts.

I love a good mechanical challenge but I don't gamble with either my brakes or my steering (which is why I have no experience with this). I will experiment with something which might strand me on the side of the road, but nothing which can kill me. This can kill you, and you're no fun to us dead.

For the sake of another $100, I'd buy the guaranteed Re-Man steering rack and just swap it out quickly. The time saved would probably be worth the difference to me alone, but the real value would be my peace of mind, knowing the thing was rebuilt correctly and was guaranteed to work safely. I would probably even have a Pro make the change and adjustment for me, and change out the PS fluid while he's at it.

Our ZX Guru is Rich from RDZ (a CTZCC member) in New Milford. His number is 203-628-7725 http://www.rdzmotorsports.com/ Rich works on these cars for a living and can tell you how easy or hard (or safe or dangerous) it might be for you to rebuild your own PS rack safely and correctly. Why not give him a call and ask his opinion? And pleaZe let us know what you decide to do?

Frank

PS: Beck-Arnley or Moog make excellent replacement parts; Moog builds them stronger than factory if you don't mind a little more weight.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:34 pm
Posts: 41
Location: New York, NY
Hi Frank,

Thanks for the thoughtful reply. If I was going to rebuild the rack, I was going to source a reputable re-builder here in New York. I wouldn't take on that task myself with all the safety concerns you pointed out. With that said, it makes more sense to purchase one already rebuilt. Parts and labor versus one already built is nominal.

So with that out of the way, where do you suggest I source a reman rack? AutoZone, Summit, ZCar Parts? It's going to be near impossible to source an OEM reman. On line, I've found some ranging in the mid $250's to as high as $490. Is there a particular manufacturer / brand that I should be looking for or one that has a better reputation / reliability than another?

Again, thank you for your input and hopefully this year, I can attend an event or two with the car and we get to chat in person.

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WaZZabi
...Rice burner with a Twist...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:09 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
Looking fwd to sitting with you in person and zeeing your car.

My general preferences are Beck-Arnley and Moog. B/A is owned by a large conglomerate so they sometimes "broker" parts with other names, which can mean slightly varying degrees of quality. Moog has never let me down. I've never had to return or replace any Moog item and I buy them for all my vehicles. They are sometimes rebuilt somewhat beefier than OEM, but to me that just means they are stronger and last longer. Maybe a pound heavier than stock, but I really don't mind that. Moog always seems to add lubrication fittings without you asking, too, which was why my Z wears one. Some other brands are cheaper, but they won't tell you they have no lube fittings until you open the box. Whichever brand you chooZe, get one you can lubricate without having to take it apart.

PS: whatever unit you chooZe will require some adjustment when you re-attach everything. You could steal your wife's nail polish and paint a witness mark on the threads where the nuts are adjusted now. That will give you a pretty accurate reference point to return them to when you reattach everything.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 7:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
I have 3 or 4 of these and one is off a 81 turbo with 27k car and another of a 60k......Cheap :!: :arrow: :arrow: That's 27,000 miles :!: :shock:


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