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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 25, 2015 7:39 pm
Posts: 697
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
My 1985 300ZX n/a has, what might be, an electrical issue/gremlin. I'm hoping that it's just plug wires breaking down when rpm gets to between 2,300 and 2,700 rpm. It feels like tires with flat spots on them when it gets to the rpm mentioned and while under a load, regardless of what gear it's in. The engine runs really smooth at idle, pulls like a freight train in all gears until it reaches 2,300 + rpm and then appears to run smooth while maintaining any steady speed (cruises at 80 mph- no sweat). So basically I'm asking for your input and ideas from those who may have had similar issues or have some knowledge on what might be causing my problem. I'll start searching through the FSM for possible solutions, but look forward to hearing your serious thoughts. Thank you.

HowardJ

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1985 300ZX- GLL Dark Pewter Metallic - Survivor


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 8:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14778
Location: CT
Does it do that with the clutch in (or in neutral) too, or just while under a load?

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 25, 2015 7:39 pm
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Location: Long Island, N.Y.
I'll have to check to see if it breaks up when it's in neutral and brought up to 2,400 or 2.500 rpm because I'm just not sure if it will break up. I do know that when it is under a load in either 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear and it reaches the specified rpm, the car has a slight "break-up", "stumble", "lean surge", "injector failure"..... something. It may be a farfetched thought but I'm wondering if it's related to my resent changing of the EGR Valve Solenoid.? That doesn't really seem logical but...? Maybe my overfilling of the gas tank caused something?

This condition just started, and WAS after the installation of the solenoid and the fill up. Step one...put back original solenoid then test ride. If there's no improvement then I'll hit the FSM and go into Search and Destroy until it gets resolved.

I'm still hoping that someone will be able to point me in the right direction. :idea: :roll:

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1985 300ZX- GLL Dark Pewter Metallic - Survivor


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 9:11 am 
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Location: CT
I just read the FSM about that complaint. I hate to break it to you, but your high speed scram rods and muffler bearings are shot. It's very costly to replace them and far exceeds the value of your car.

You should sell it to me cheaply, immediately. 8)

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 9:51 am 
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Location: Long Island, N.Y.
It can't be that! I just replaced all of that. Thank you for sharing your vast expanse of knowledge and wiZedom with me.

HowardJ

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 11:00 am 
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Location: CT
8) ...heyyyyyy....you can't blame me for trying.

Seriously, I would hope it was a single igniter or a plug wire.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri May 20, 2016 7:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2013 6:37 pm
Posts: 20
Location: Enfield, CT
Hmm! might be the MAF. Did you check for codes on the ECU?
Check the forum archives at www.Z31performance.com
Check xenonzcar.com





86na
88t


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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 4:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 25, 2015 7:39 pm
Posts: 697
Location: Long Island, N.Y.
Update: I decided to stay old school and go through the BASICS... plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor. Upon inspection I noticed a common problem with the contacts in the distributor cap, the infamous..."crusty krudd" deposits. I took an ignition file and cleaned the contacts and then took a test drive. There does not appear to be anymore misfiring or hesitation at 2,300-2,700 rpm anymore. I'll keep my fingers crossed and will most likely order a new OEM cap.

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PostPosted: Sat May 21, 2016 10:31 pm 
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Location: CT
Corrosion is the enemy, and the enemy never sleeps.....

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