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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 4:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 572
Location: Orange, CT
Well here we go again.
I was finally tracking down my inoperative headlights and markers.
I started the car to move it and within about 2 minutes I smelled electrical burning and had smoke from the dash.
I looked with a light but couldn't find the source.
I guess the next step is to take out the dash and check the wires.
This could be the reason the lights weren't working.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
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Location: CT
Just saw this. :cry:

If none of the fuZes are compromiZed, you'll be looking for scalded insulation on one of the wires. Remember, all the circuitry (in the 1970 cars) routed thru the stupid 4-way-flasher switch for some reason. That wasn't the brightest idea they ever had, but it got the cars out the door cheaply. You could begin looking at all the pin connections on that switch and zee if any look melted. You could also get up underneath the dash with a flashlight, turn the key on and watch for smoke or glowing fireworks.
These are the times when you really, really want one of those quick-disconnect buttons on your inboard battery terminal. $5 at any car parts store.

I have a late-70/early 71 wiring schematic if you need it.

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1970 240Z


Last edited by Frank T on Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 6:27 pm
Posts: 62
Location: CT 06514
SurferD
Smoke is not good and very hard to replace. I see your in Orange I was born and raised in Orange now live in Hamden. I just pulled out my 70 from a 20 year nap and getting her back on the road. Im good with replacing missing smoke let me know if you need assistance.

Steve

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 7:00 pm 
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Location: CT
:lol: Cool.

"Be careful not to let the smoke out"
- Bryan Little -

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
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Location: Orange, CT
Thanks guys I'll start with taking the dash out anyway to see what's up inside.
I searched and it's a suck job but the key is labeling all the connectors for later and keeping track of the hardware.
I just hope I can get it back together before Ross' house GTG.
Frank you're right there should be evidence of the burning. Maybe a critter made a home in there and gnawed a wire. I have the factory manual which has the schematic.
Steve, I may need some help. How is it that your car hasn't run in 20 years?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


Last edited by SurferD on Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:24 pm 
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Location: CT
One of the major thrills of taking off your dash is finding Japanese Kanji written inside :D
Also, great opportunity to vacuum and wipe down all those Impossible places to clean.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:35 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
One of the major thrills of taking off your dash is finding Japanese Kanji written inside :D
Also, great opportunity to vacuum and wipe down all those Impossible places to clean.

Yep I started already when I took off the metal garnish, as it's called in the FSM. It had some rust and duct tape residue that was thick and hard as glass.
I sanded it down and painted it flat black. Looks like new.
I'll take pics of the kanji if I find any and ask my in-laws what it means.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


Last edited by SurferD on Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
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Location: CT
They are signatures by Quality Assurance / QualCntrl inspectors who assure all connections and hardware are proper before the dash gets bolted into place. You will be the first human to see them in 45 years. 8)

When Jason was in town his JDM Fairlady Z had the VIN plate mounted *ON* that defroster plate. Ours is mounted on the dash itself. He could swap out the vent plate and change the visible VIN on is car if he wanted to. Also, not every Japanese Fairlady had a "build plate" inside the driver's (or passenger's) door; those were emissions requirements by the USA if they wanted to sell cars here. Japan didn't need them. So if he changed out his vent plate, the only two VINs on Jason's car could have been the shock tower data plate and the firewall VIN (which was on the "wrong" side because his car was a RHD).

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:58 pm 
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Well I got the dash out after much head scratching and a Datsun FSM that leaves a lot to be desired.
It says to disconnect one heater cable but fails to mention the three vent cables. there's also the ducts held on with screws and the 4 bolts on the steering column.
I did number all the connections to aid in installation.
I can't find any burned wires or other evidence yet.
I'm thinking it may be a bad instrument light rheostat because of where the smoke came from but the lights weren't working anyway so maybe not.
I guess 777 isn't going to Ross' meetup tomorrow :(
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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


Last edited by SurferD on Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:42 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:07 pm 
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No....maybe that's WHY the lights weren't working.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:22 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
No....maybe that's WHY the lights weren't working.

A bad interior rheostat would affect the exterior lights?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 7:29 pm 
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Location: CT
Sooo, tell us again why you won't drive this car to the picnic tmrw?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:46 pm 
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Frank T wrote:
Sooo, tell us again why you won't drive this car to the picnic tmrw?

:lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:42 pm 
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Location: CT
Hey, I just noticed you have a new MSA bayonet type fusebox installed; did we discuss whether your headlamps worked before you installed it or not?
And did your instrument lights stop working when you put that in?

I'm wondering if maybe you have a loose plug or a mis-matched connector or something?

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 24, 2015 7:15 am 
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Location: Orange, CT
I think they worked just after the install. I didn't run the car for a long time because I was redoing the rear suspension. Then in the early spring I was doing some work to the front valence area and discovered they weren't working. I thought I disconnected the lights but all the connectors were fastened.

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