Nope mine's a black screw type.
Agreed it's the best cheapest insurance.
I also recommend a small fire extinguisher. Usually CO2 is best because it doesn't leave residue but dry chem is better than nothing.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

From my experience, the voltage while the car is running across the battery terminals should be 14.7 or so.
I'm getting 11.8.
It looks like the same wire in the loom that goes to the alternator battery terminal and starter positive.
there I just get 11.7v to ground.
I'm getting 17-18 at the alternator ground and alternator battery terminal.
Could the wire be shot and giving up voltage in the short run or is it a different wire that goes from the starter to the alternator battery terminal?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Probably possible. But remember, that "connector" you see near the starter is actually a fusable link. Mine gave me fits for a long time before a backwoods NC country boy figured out that it wasn't merely a connector. If it's causing a high-impediment, it's time to replace it. That link supplies power to your primary ignition circuit. If it burns out, your car will start as long as you hold the key to "START", but instantly die when you release the key to "RUN".

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1970 240Z

I assumed it was a link of some kind.
So is it supposed to be 14-17v at the link?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

I don't know. I would assume it should show the full voltage the battery has to offer.
I'm on my way to watch SPECTRE just now; I can research that Q when I get back later if you're still on here.

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1970 240Z

Still same issue with voltage but a new problem arose. I have been taking it out for after work sprints and all is great but when I make more than 2 stops of the engine I can't start it. It's like the battery is dead but it has around 12v.
I have been strategically parking to enable pop starts just in case.
Could it be my starter relay?
After sitting a day it starts fine.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Your Z is haunted.

I'm sorry I forgot this thread completely. Obviously "SPECTRE" hasn't lasted all this time. I just became overcome by other events and forgot you. My apologies.

I have some jumper wires (simple alligator clips either end of a wire) which will allow you to jump across your fusible link to test that theory. If the car runs OK with the jumper on it, the link is the problem.

I would have to spend some time actually thinking about your other Gremlin. My answer right now would have to be "I'm not sure".
It might have more to do with your ignition switch than with anything else.
Q: when you describe stopping the car several times during the trips, are you removing the ignition key while the car is OFF? I'm wondering if one side of your 2-sided key is maybe just worn down too much. When that happens again, will you please try taking the key out, turning it over and trying it again pleaZe?

Also, next time that happens pleaZe try working the plastic electrical connectors together under the steering shaft. There might be a single tenuous connection getting interrupted in there. Just try pressing the plastic boxes harder together. I've seen some owners use tiny zip-ties to hold them tightly together.

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1970 240Z

It's haunted by the spirits of past bond villains.

I'll make up a jumper and see what happens.
I took the link off and it's pretty frayed on the end that attaches to the starter.
I did a continuity check and it's still good but I can't see it handling much amperage.
I need to find a new 16AWG fusible link.
As for the starting thing, the key orientation hasn't been an issue.
I'm getting power because I hear the solenoid click and the engine even turns slightly no matter which way it's in.
I't s not the starter because it's only a few months old.
I think the battery power just isn't getting to the starter thus I would believe it's a relay.
However I don't think these cars have a replay.
I ordered a new ignition starter key switch from RockAuto.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Got a 16AWG fusible link at AdvanceAuto for $4.35
I had to reuse the old connectors but it was pretty easy to remove the old solder.
The car starts fine but I didn't do an extended drive with shutdowns.
One thing I did learn is that if the FL is disconnected the engine shuts down.
I guess that's what it's supposed to do in case of overload.
Even with the new FL I'm still getting just 12v at the battery when it should be 14v.
If I go from the bat terminal of the alternator to ground I get 17v.
I'm losing voltage somewhere.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Hook up your SparkOmeter across the battery (be careful to use a high enough scale not to fry anything). Rig it so you can see the meter from inside the car, then start pulling fuses one at a time until you isolate a system which is draining your juice.

Yes, the fusible link shuts down the ignition system if it's open. There is a parallel ignition circuit run off the starter which bypasses the link and allows the car to start. The instant you release the key from START to RUN, that parallel circuit stops being used and the engine runs on the main circuit, which flows thru the link. If the link is bad (open), the car will immediately quit running as soon as you release the key from START (because that stops using the parallel circuit). The parallel (primary) circuit runs nothing else; no gauges, no lights, no radio, no accessories; its only function is to spin the starter and supply enough juice to the primary ignition circuit to get the car running. If you could hold the key ON, you could drive the car with an open fusible link, but the fact that the starter remains engaged simply doesn't allow you to do that.

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1970 240Z

"If I go from the bat terminal of the alternator to ground I get 17v."

When it's running, right?

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1970 240Z

If you have 17 at Alt and 12 at bat IMO your regulator is the culprit.

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HLS30-10558

Yes

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

I have a new internally regulated alternator.
However the diodes may have gone south.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Oh then 17 is high for an internal regulated alternator. Should be around 13 idle and no more then 14.5 as it revs up.

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HLS30-10558