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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 12:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 572
Location: Orange, CT
I'm stumped by my lights not working.
Last year I installed the MSA fusebox.
It's a little bigger than stock and now the power outlet aka cigarette lighter doesn't line up with the cover, but I digress.
After getting the car ready this year and going to the first meeting in North Haven I found that my marker lights, headlights, dome light, and instrument lights are non-operational.
I checked the fuses and they are all good.
I know the early S30's had no relay so it's not that.
Pror to the install my light switch worked perfectly and all lights functioned.
Any thoughts?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:21 am
Posts: 973
Location: Somers CT
Bad ground ? :?: :?: :?: :?:

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 4:31 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
FM6 wrote:
Bad ground ? :?: :?: :?: :?:

If it were a ground wouldn't everything not work?
I still have brake lights and both front and rear turn signals.
I think I'll swap out the stock box and see what happens.
Of course the switch could have gone bad suddenly with the new box too.

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 7:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
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Location: CT
Q#1: Did those lights ever work correctly after the MSA install?
Q#2: Do you have a good schematic of your car's electrical system?
Q#3: Does your horn work?
Q#4: Do your 4-way flashers work? (Everything is wired thru that switch).

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PostPosted: Sun May 31, 2015 9:50 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
Q#1: Did those lights ever work correctly after the MSA install?
Q#2: Do you have a good schematic of your car's electrical system?
Q#3: Does your horn work?
Q#4: Do your 4-way flashers work? (Everything is wired thru that switch).

1-Unknown, I never checked the lights and only drove it during daylight
2-affirmative, I have both orginal 1971 Nissan and Haynes service manuals. The schematic is a diagram not a component location. It's a fairly simple setp in this car, no relays.
3-affirmative, the horn works
4-affirmative, the hazard switch on the dash causes all 4 lights to blink
I did move the harness that goes across the lower radiator support for corossion control.
It has the connectors for the headlights. Would that do smoothing?

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 01, 2014 9:21 am
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Location: Somers CT
SurferD wrote:
FM6 wrote:
Bad ground ? :?: :?: :?: :?:

If it were a ground wouldn't everything not work?
I still have brake lights and both front and rear turn signals.
I think I'll swap out the stock box and see what happens.
Of course the switch could have gone bad suddenly with the new box too.


Not sure if it would cause everything to not work.
Depends on if the ground fault is at the device or not.
Some things like lights are grounded to the frame and some are grounded to the switch.
Perhaps your schematic would have the answer.

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 9:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14778
Location: CT
Some of the most-frustrating efforts spent on the Tech Talk board have been attempts to exorcize electrical Gremlins by remote control. :lol:

I think you might have two (or maybe even 3) separate issues here.

#1:
["I did move the harness that goes across the lower radiator support for corrosion control. It has the connectors for the headlights. Would that do something?"].

That part of the loom supplies power to your headlamps, side lamps and horn (which is why I asked about the horn). The entire under-hood wire harness is in 3 snap-together sections; one at the firewall, one down the passenger side fender/framerail, and the other ahead of the radiator. I would check each plug-in connection to ensure it is a tight fit, and pull it apart to inspect the condition of the connections inside. If they are green with age, soak them with a good strong baking soda solution (just dunk them in a paper cup after disconnecting the battery) until they look bright and shiny. Blow-dry them completely with the wife's hairdryer and QTips or pipe cleaners.

#2: Play with your "MultiSwitch" stalk on the steering column. That controls your headlamps, parking lamps and wipers. Wiggle it and actually try to move it up/down on the column to see if it's mounted solidly or not. Work the headlamp switch on/off/on/off several thousand times rapidly ( :lol: ) to see if that makes your lights work or not. Best done in a dark garage.

#3: The dashboard lights *might* be turned down too low to be seen. Under the Tach above your knee is a rheostat button. Twist that and play with it to see if this is a simple fix, then get back to us. (Don't confuse it with the odometer reset button under the SpeedO).

#4: Interior lamps are not on any 'circuit'. They are simple individual 2-wire push-ON push-OFF direct power lamps. If they don't work either the bulb or the ground are suspect (just like Carl said). SOME of the cars took power off the rear hatch defroster for the overhead lamp, but I don't know what years that involved.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 7:26 pm 
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Location: CT
Any luck?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 8:55 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
Any luck?

Not yet I started by replacing a few bulbs that were out.
I'm doing the box change tomorrow to see how old one affects it.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 15, 2015 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Do you have the headlight harness upgrade? Does the new fuse box have 2 fuses on the top right that should have Power on both sides of the fuses when the switch is ON? If so, is there power to the headlight switch, if so, is there power to the bulbs. I always move the light switch on and off fast, and if something comes on, time to rebuild the switch.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2015 2:47 pm 
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Location: CT
So, what worked?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 8:19 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
No joy on the hunt for gremlins. Still working it out.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2015 10:52 pm 
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Location: CT
I have a totally-restored, better-than-new Sep/1971 Multi-Switch (light stalk) sitting in my garage. It won't work on my '70 car. Why don't you try it and see if it makes a difference on your car?
Just in case it's the switch.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:22 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
I have a totally-restored, better-than-new Sep/1971 Multi-Switch (light stalk) sitting in my garage. It won't work on my '70 car. Why don't you try it and see if it makes a difference on your car?
Just in case it's the switch.

Thanks!
I'd love to try it but I think I have the older style like yours.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2015 1:48 pm 
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Location: CT
Maybe, but then again, maybe not.
These cars changed SO rapidly in the early years, it was hard to keep up with them. One of the constant upgrades seemed to be little electrical changes, so some of the earliest cars are pretty fussy about what they'll let you put in them. What works on a late 1970 doesn't necessarily work on an early '70, and so on. This switch cost me hundreds of millions of dollars (well, almost) to have totally rebuilt and painted, and it is better than original stock. But it won't make some things happen on my car (like wsw) because it came off a late '71. But it makes the lights work great. If that was all I counted on it to do, I'd be in hog heaven.
Why not try it and if it doesn't change anything for you, just give it back when you see me again?

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