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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2015 7:59 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
A friend of mine in Carolina once had a "no headlamp" situation. He turned on the switch and nothing happened. While under the hood he noticed a hose clamp he wanted tightened and when he made contact btwn the engine and the firewall, the lights came on. As soon as he removed the channel lock pliers, they went back out.

He put one of those woven metal braid grounding straps btwn the rear of the block and the firewall; everything worked better than before, and his lights worked as advertiZed. Not saying that's YOUR problem, but it was his.

Can't hurt to check and if not add one.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 5:19 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
SurferD wrote:
Frank T wrote:
A friend of mine in Carolina once had a "no headlamp" situation. He turned on the switch and nothing happened. While under the hood he noticed a hose clamp he wanted tightened and when he made contact btwn the engine and the firewall, the lights came on. As soon as he removed the channel lock pliers, they went back out.

He put one of those woven metal braid grounding straps btwn the rear of the block and the firewall; everything worked better than before, and his lights worked as advertiZed. Not saying that's YOUR problem, but it was his.

Can't hurt to check and if not add one.

OK I added a new ground wire at the same location where the battery is grounded to the firewall.
As every other single piece of smallish hardware on the exterior of the car has done the ground bolt broke off and I had to drill/tap to repair it. That's just SOP and Iv'e come to expect it.
Anyway I cleaned the area and put in a nice stainless bolt/washer/lock washer combo.
I used 10AWG speaker wire for my ground wire because that's what I had lying around.
I atached the other end to the block via the 3-way heater hose junction.
Of course the lights still don't work but now my ground is actually doing something.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2015 5:23 pm 
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Location: CT
Good.
One less thing to worry about.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 7:29 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Finally some good news!
I never checked the voltage at the side markers so I pulled them out tonight before the NYGiants game and was pleasantly surprised that the rears have power.
The bulbs have seen better days so I put in a 1156 and what do you know? The two rears lit up.
The fronts are another story. One housing had rust packed in and no power. The other one had 6.5v due to a bad splice. I took both assemblies out and am going to rewire one and I have a spare replacement.
So with that I just need to track down the headlights, license plate, and dash lights

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 10:15 pm 
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I keep hoping you discover these are "local" problems at each light, not major issues at the circuit trunk. Still can't drive it until you get the headlamps to do their thing.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:01 am 
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Frank T wrote:
I keep hoping you discover these are "local" problems at each light, not major issues at the circuit trunk. Still can't drive it until you get the headlamps to do their thing.

Me too
I got all 4 side marker lights and the 2 license plate lights working.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 9:06 am 
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Check the loom forward of where it goes thru the radiator support. There might be a worn spot there which is grounding your power before it reaches the lamps. The headlamp loom connects to the main power supply at that point. Anything could happen up there, including loose connections, worn insulation or hungry mice.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:21 pm 
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Update: All interior/exterior lights now working. Headlights still no joy.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 6:57 pm 
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I have to wonder if either of your headlamps would work in someone else's Z?

You'd feel pretty silly if you're chasing a Gremlin which doesn't exist. Trust me; if both your headlamps are burned out, no amount of wire-play is going to fix that problem. :lol:

They aren't hard to swap out. Simply replace one of them with a known-good lamp and see if it lights! :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 7:01 pm 
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That's my next step it could be they both blew out.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 10, 2016 12:59 pm 
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Location: Stamford, CT
Have you tested the lights independently(EDIT: I guess not haha) ? Both of mine stopped working so I ran 12V and ground to the lights and both high and low worked fine. Pretty sure my switch has gone bad since my lows never worked and now I get 12V to all three prongs in one connector and a non zero ground from the other(like .5V from whats supposed to be the ground prong). I ended up just running a new ground wire to the bolts that hold in the horns and now my "high" beams work as they should.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2016 9:07 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
After exhausting troubleshooting and taking apart of switches I do have power and my old headlights were just bad.
I took apart the bucket assemblies and man it was a rust fest. Of course all hardware had to be driled out.
Anyway I had some spare lights and stainless holders (my originals had spot welds that broke) from other scavenging hunts and whaddya know they work! So now I'm ready for any night driving I'm faced with.
I went on RockAuto and ordered 2 new Wagner H6024BL xenon lamps to replace the old ones.
Both for only $26.72 including shipping.
Thanks for all the help!

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2016 4:45 pm 
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Mannn, that's really good news! :mrgreen: :thumbs_up: Glad it wasn't more serious than that.
If you replace your original lamps with Xenons, mind the difference in current flow. Pushing more juice thru old connections and wires poses a meltdown hazard which I have experienced first-hand and will spoil your mood for days.

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