I think I found the problem with the the lights. When I took the dash out I noticed the large 10AWG wire had come apart from the barrel crimp connector I installed when I did the fuse box. I took apart the box and found it powers all lights. I'm crossing my fingers that when I put it back they work.
I also took apart the headlight section of the multi-switch and the contacts were a little burnt but not bad. I cleaned and relubed them.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Trying (unsuccessfully) to picture the connector you're referring to. Can you send us a picture or draw a map?

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1970 240Z

This is the MSA harness and the wire is number 33

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

So, do you suspect an open in that part of the unit itself, or in the old wiring on the car loom, or the actual junction of the two?

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1970 240Z

The new fuse harness didn't have a connector and I didn't want to cut the main harness. So I cut the end connector off the old fuse harness and used a crimp butt connector as you see.
The crimp splice failed so there wasn't any power going to the lights.
Hopefully Occum's Razor principle works for me and that's it.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Please revisit this forum the moment you first get your headlamps to glimmer without smoke.

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1970 240Z

got the dash back in and wires hooked up.
Still no lights!!!
It was dark and maybe I missed something.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

I don't mean to sound like a smarty, but do you know for certain either of your headlamps work? Seriously, have you EVER seen them illuminate?
It would make for a good story if you did all this when all you needed were two new lamps.

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1970 240Z

It's an obvious question.
Yes all the lights worked when I got the car. I was quite happy by that fact.
The thing is none of the external or instrument lights are now working so if it was a bad headlamp just that one wouldn't work.
I haven't tried swapping the old fuse box yet so that's next.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

Update I looked at the old fusebox and the two 10 gage wires go to the same bus bar.
I swapped them in the car on the MSA box and now I have rear(two upper) and front(under bumper) running lights.
Headlights, instruments, and side markers are still out.
I checked the switch operation with a meter and there's 11.9 volts steady on the red to ground.
I took the headlight fuses out and it went away so that tells me there's something farther along the path I need to look at.
I also checked the operation and when the switch is to running lights the voltage goes away. Same with headlight mode.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

So, you've confirmed B+ voltage TO the switch, but as soon as you turn the switch to any ON position, the incoming voltage disappears? Is that what you're saying?

Or do you mean the voltage STOPS at the switch and not make it thru when in the ON position?

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1970 240Z

OK I rechecked it.
Looks like there's twin black 14/16AWG wires that power the headlights/sides coming off the right center terminal.
I checked the voltage of the 14AWG lead where it plugs into the harness under the column and it's 0v when the switch is in off and first position. It goes to 11.5 when in third position. This means the switch is working and the headlight circuit is getting power. I hope I don't have to take the dash out again but I may to trace it.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

OK thnx ~ that makes more sense. At least you've eliminated the switch as the bad guy in this scenario.

Q: Do you have a grounding strap btwn your engine block and the framerails anywhere?

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1970 240Z

I don't think I do.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919

A friend of mine in Carolina once had a "no headlamp" situation. He turned on the switch and nothing happened. While under the hood he noticed a hose clamp he wanted tightened and when he made contact btwn the engine and the firewall, the lights came on. As soon as he removed the channel lock pliers, they went back out.

He put one of those woven metal braid grounding straps btwn the rear of the block and the firewall; everything worked better than before, and his lights worked as advertiZed. Not saying that's YOUR problem, but it was his.

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1970 240Z