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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
Hi guys I hope you're all enjoying the New Year and miserable weather this 03 Jan.
As you know I'm still redoing all my rear suspension and differential holding bits.
It's all coming out brilliantly due to my unlimited talent. 8)
I have however run into a snag regarding the R180 Moustache bushings or as Nissan calls them insulator assy diff.
The original part number was 55476-E4100 which was superceeded by 55476-N4300.
Well I gots me a set of the fancy new ones and got the bar off the car and...What The F@#$?
I know everyone is going to ask "why didn't you just get poly it's so much better?"
Well I have had poly in many cars and yes it makes everything better but the vibration in this particular area isn't something I look forward to feeling. I'm not planning on racing so I may as well be comfortable.
I haven't tried taking these apart yet so I may answer some of my own questions when I start but it's better to know beforehand so I don't screw something up.
This is why I ask the Z masters here.

First off the configuration of the old one has flanges on both sides (How did they get those in there anyway?) but the new one only has one.
Are the flanges in the old one in two parts and I need the other part for the new one?
Which way does the new one go in, flange on top or bottom?
Second, the overall length is longer than the bar. Do I center it or favor upper or lower?
Thirdly, the inner steel spacer is asymmetrical, meaning that one end protrudes more out of the outer shell whereas the old one is the same both ways.

Do I just keep my old 44 year old rubber and hope for the best or will these work?
I'm leaning towards just using the old ones and selling these.
Image

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 10:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
I posted on zcar.com and got this answer. Anyone agree/disagree?
"The old steel sleeve has to be removed via cutting, the new one is pressed in, and the edge is curled over using a special die and a press. Or a big hammer can be used to peen it over, although it tends to tear the edges. A good machinist can cobble up an effective die pretty easily, it's a simple shape. If you look around enough you might find one of the guys who has built his own die and will let you borrow it."
What's weird is the 1971 factory Nissan shop manual doesn't mention anything about special tools or reassembly other than a drift set part number ST33260000 to remove the insulator.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:34 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Torrington
Hey SurferD,

The factory installed the bushing by peening the end over so that it cant be removed. Obviously you cant install a new one using the same technique unless you have special fixturing and a bid press lying around.

The bushing is made of three pieces; inner sleeve, rubber, outer shell. I think the poly bushings are made to install into the original outer shell where you remove the original rubber by torch or other means.

The replacement that you have appears to have the same 3 piece design as the original. So that means you 1st have to remove the inner sleeve, get all the rubber out, and also cut out the outer sleeve. You should be able to use the replacement without peening the end over, as that big washer with the rubber insulator holds everything together anyway. But you may have to cut part of the sleeve off (that you didnt peen over) so it doesn't interfere.

By the way - I should still have a 'stache bar sitting around with the original bushing already removed, to save you the work. By memory, I removed the outer shell not realizing you are supposed to leave it in when you go to poly bushings. If you are interested I'll scout around for it. It'll be CHEAP.

Tim


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 8:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3098
Location: rhode island
The original metal bushing retainer stays, and the new ones go within the old metal retainer. It's a 10 minute job.....stick one end in fire.....heated up real good. While still hot run a wire brush on a drill to clean up better, stick new bushing in while hot, stick in bucket of cold water. Trial and era.......don't do what I did once and throw the whole mustache bar in the fire......it will warp like hell.......just the bushing end.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2015 9:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
I decided to just go with poly anyway.
So I'll have to cut out the steel bush and rubber and leave the shell.
Thanks for the replies.

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 8:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
I started using a sawzall to get the rubber out. It wasn't working that great.
Then I spotted a 1 3/4 hole saw in the toolbox.
Viola! they both were out in less than 5 minutes.
I used a propane torch to soften then scraped the rubber.
Finished off with a 2" coarse wire wheel to get residual off.
I put some paint on and now everything is set.

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