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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:39 pm 
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Actually Karl, you just brought up an excellent point (no pun) ~ how does she tell for sure if the screw head is a phillips or the (sharper) reed and prince when it's 3" deep in the well?

If she uses the wrong blade, she will rip up the screw head for certain.

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a- ... -Frearson/

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:52 pm 
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From Wiki ~


"Phillips:

Phillips drive tool and fastener sizes
Tool size Fastener size
0 0–1
1 2–4
2 5–9
3 10–16
4 18–24
Created by Henry F. Phillips, the Phillips screw drive was purposely designed to cam out when the screw stalled,[citation needed] to prevent the fastener damaging the work or the head, instead damaging the driver. This was caused by the relative difficulty in building torque limiting into the early drivers.
The American Screw Company of Providence, Rhode Island was responsible for devising a means of manufacturing the screw, and successfully patented and licensed their method; other screw makers of the 1930s dismissed the Phillips concept because it calls for a relatively complex recessed socket shape in the head of the screw — as distinct from the simple milled slot of a slotted type screw.
Phillips drive sizes (different from the screw size) are designated 0000, 000, 00, 0, 1, 2, 3, and 4 (by order of increasing size).


Frearson (aka "Reed & Prince")

The Frearson screw drive, also known as the Reed and Prince screw drive, is similar to a Phillips but the Frearson has a sharp tip and larger angle in the V shape. One advantage over the Phillips drive is that one driver or bit fits all screw sizes. It is often found in marine hardware and requires a Frearson screwdriver or bit to work properly. The tool recess is a perfect, sharp cross, allowing for higher applied torque, unlike the rounded, tapered Phillips head, which was designed to cam out at high torque. It was developed by an English inventor named Frearson in the 19th century and produced from the late 1930s to the mid-1970s. The Reed & Prince Mfg. Company of Worcester, Massachusetts, was put into bankruptcy in 1987 and liquidated in 1990. Another entity called Reed & Prince Manufacturing Corporation, now of Leominster, Massachusetts, purchased some of the assets including the name at the liquidation sale."

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:57 pm 
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FM6 wrote:
Colette . . . make sure the Phillips head screwdriver you are using has a good sharp end . . . . . if you think its worn at all just buy a new one. . . . . the last thing you want to do is strip the pattern. Franks suggestion works well . . . just make sure the tip is not rounded at all or you might strip the head.

Good suggestion Karl but Phillips heads aren't pointed. The flukes should be straight without deformation. Always match the screw and driver size. Sometimes the wrong size driver is used and it can damage both the screw and driver. For most automotive applications a #2 screw is used. However on a lot of door panels especially armrests a #3 is used. It's super easy to tell the difference as the 3 is a lot bigger.

Collette also get yourself a ACR (AntiCamoutRib) bit. It will help take the fastener out easier.
You can get bits and a quick change screwdriver cheap at Home Depot, Lowes, or Harbor Freight.
This is what it looks like http://www.aaronsscrewdrivers.com/anti-camout_ribs.htm
the one thing bad about bit tip screwdrivers however is they are a little fatter and don't always fit into recessed holes.
This is the driver I have and it's great.
http://store.snapon.com/Standard-Handle ... 30565.aspx
Frank, it's very unlikely that Nissan used Reed & Prince (also called Frearson) as they are mainly used in the marine and aviation industries. I have worked on some aircraft from the 60's that have that type head. That said, you never know what you'll find.

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Last edited by SurferD on Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:04 pm 
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["That said, you never know what you'll find"].

Agreed, my friend! You will find (as I did) both R&P and Phillips on your early Z. I have no idea when (or IF) they stopped using them, and Colette's car is 10 yrs older than ours, so maybe all hers are Phillips.

I've messed up a lot of screwheads on my own Z by using the wrong screwdriver.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:16 pm 
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Frank T wrote:
["That said, you never know what you'll find"].

Agreed, my friend! You will find (as I did) both R&P and Phillips on your early Z. I have no idea when (or IF) they stopped using them, and Colette's car is 10 yrs older than ours, so maybe all hers are Phillips.

I've messed up a lot of screwheads on my own Z by using the wrong screwdriver.

I haven't found any yet but I'm sure I will. I only have a 1/4" R&P, what sizes have you seen? . I have however found many of those stupid wire hose clamps with fused philips screws that strip out immediately so I have to take wire cutters and cut the wire to get them off. :evil:

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:50 am 
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Location: Waterford, Ct.
Thanks, you guys are awesome! :thumbs_up:
' Hi Ho, Hi, Ho', it's off to Home Depot I go :lol: I AM going to win this battle!
C :!:


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 9:09 am 
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:D Yes, you are! And we're going to help you fight it. Your little Z will be completely happy and healthy next Zeason and you'll be driving with us on our meetings and events. :thumbs_up:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:11 pm 
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Location: Waterford, Ct.
Well folks this was a classic case of having (or not :wink: ) the right tool for the job.

Armed with a #3 Phillips I was able to easily remove the armrest. I removed the screw in the door lever, the handle and there were a few more fasteners hidden behind buttons. The uncertainty came when I had to pop the liner out of its snap-in fasters but all's well. I disconnected the little light and the electric window units but the only thing I couldn't disconnect was the speaker so I snugged it up. Not sure what the problem was but I blasted the radio and it sounded okay so it all went back together. The foam on the back of the speaker disintegrated so I took some no-slip shelf liner form the kitchen and glued that in its place.
The best part was not having any extra parts leftover. :lol:

Thanks again for all the help folks.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:42 pm 
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:D HEYYY! Great work, Colette! Proud of you for doing it single-handedly. That helps you bond with your Z. If the speaker still breaks up or becomes intermittent, you now know to look at the connections behind the equaliZer or radio.

Congratulations and nice job! Next projects should be your rust, your broken glovebox lock and your antenna. You should let some of us help with some of that.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:59 pm 
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Thats great ingenuity Colette . . . Most of us might have not known where to go from there. Great outcome. 8)

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75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:55 am 
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Location: Waterford, Ct.
FYI (although you guys probably already know about this stuff). I was talking with the guys at work and found out there is a place on Broad St. in New London, across from Taco Bell that sells autobody tools. I can get a device that removes the plastic plugs hiding fasteners. It might be a little more graceful than a butter knife and a screwdriver.

I'm going to check it out because my next mission is the antenna and Frank said access to that was hiding behind a panel. I want the fasteners to look the same after the job as they did before. The door ones survived okay, not any noticeable marks, but not perfect either.

Any tips on antenna work, testing, replacement, refurbishment? Please specify tool sizes needed. :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:58 am 
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check autobodytoolmart.com
They have things you never knew existed.
you definitely need a trim removal tool better than the butter knife although we have all done it before.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 11:37 am 
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From your description of the antenna, I suspect the little plastic cord inside it has broken. That's why you can hear the motor run and the mast moves a little way, but not all the way up or down.
That has been fixed by some members by disassembling the whole antenna and replacing that plastic cord with the right size Weed Whacker string (THANKS, Dave Russell), which actually works but is a PITA and time consuming to rebuild. Unless you can focus on small projects like Orr in Catch-22, you're better off simply replacing the whole unit.
Here's one for less than $50. It would be worth it to me to pay $50 just to avoid the hassle of trying to reconstruct one of those units.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Antenna-A ... 6b&vxp=mtr

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 11:43 am 
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On the one I had in my 260z the plastic part was like a long toothed thing that was driven by a gear and roller. The teeth had worn away because it is plastic and I would imagine it got brittle.
If you can fix it right for 50$ and move on to the next project it will probably move you along toward your goal quicker. :wink:

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W.Karl Walton
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75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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