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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 8:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
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Location: Orange, CT
I've been driving around after work every day and it's great except for the floaty feeling while cornering. Granted I have 75 series tires and probably need shocks but I thought it would feel a bit more planted. I do have a set of 14x6 vintage Appliance mesh wheels that I'm putting 215/60 tires on so that should help. What else, change bushings, sway bars, etc?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:08 am 
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Location: CT
Polyurethane bushings and new shock struts all around will make you think you're driving another car. The polys are a PITA to put on yrslf because you have to drop most of the suspension, so I would recommend taking it to someone like Vinny and letting him handle it.

The cars were made to sell cheaply, and had an average life expectancy of *about* 10-15 years if used as daily drivers and not garage-kept. In order to keep the price under $3500, Datsun couldn't afford to put hi-endurance hi-cost components on it (except that wonderful engine!!! I keep hearing stories of people DRIVING their old Zs to the junkyard back in the day).

Today, there are hundreds more optional aftermarket items available for these cars than there were back when they were new. We enjoy an affordable and well-devloped aftermarket of parts which are actual improvements over the NOS items made by Datsun 40 years ago.

All in all, I suspect this is THE BEST time to own an early S30. :wink:

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
That's kinda what I thought. I'll have I do it a little at a time.
Doing suspension stuff doesn't faze me. I've done lots of cars and am very familiar with the Z setup. Thanks again for the info.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 3:51 pm 
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Careful with the gas tube strut inserts. The springs are compressed and will happily kill you if they are not released slowly.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 5:23 pm 
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I know I've taken those type apart before.
I have compressors for the coil springs and I don't know if the shocks are replacement cartridge type or original using the tube itself.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:31 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
I definitely need new shocks. I was driving around and hit a small pothole and BANG I thought the control arm got ripped off. It was not as bad as I thought. I'm ordering KYB's since I don't want to deal with adjustements. I'll get 4 new shocks, new mounts and bearings. Anything else other than bushings?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:46 pm 
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Location: Somers CT
There are cushions / bushings at the top of the strut towers . . . . . those cause a clunking sound if they need replacing.
Not sure if that was the bushing you refereed to.

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 7:55 am 
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FM6 wrote:
There are cushions / bushings at the top of the strut towers . . . . . those cause a clunking sound if they need replacing.
Not sure if that was the bushing you refereed to.

I think the shock mounts (Nissan calls them insulators part number 54320-E4100) and "cushions" you refer are the same things. I am changing them.
By bushings, I meant all the rotating joints in the suspension/driveline systems which is a big job.
I just want to get it more driveable for now.
I know mixing new parts with old leads to excess wear and poor handling but I figure just shocks can only help.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:13 am 
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An improvement over the original Z is today's adjustable camber plate. Those weren't available to anybody back in the day. They replace the top of the strut tower and let you adjust the shocks to the precise degree of angle you desire.


Attachments:
240Z camber plate.jpg
240Z camber plate.jpg [ 32.76 KiB | Viewed 9707 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 12:17 pm 
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Location: NY/CT
Probably the best, most concise overview I've seen on the subject:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49037-h ... ould-i-do/

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Colin F. Gentle
1970 Datsun 240z #11137


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:16 pm 
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Location: Somers CT
^^^^^^^^ That right there is a great link to good info.

Thanks Colin.

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:45 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
cfg240z wrote:
Probably the best, most concise overview I've seen on the subject:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49037-h ... ould-i-do/

Exactly what I need thanks!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:47 pm 
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Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
An improvement over the original Z is today's adjustable camber plate. Those weren't available to anybody back in the day. They replace the top of the strut tower and let you adjust the shocks to the precise degree of angle you desire.

ACP's are great but they often require sheet metal removal and shaping for fitment.
Is that the case with the Z versions?
From that picture it looks like it.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 1:52 pm 
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Location: Somers CT
I am planning this as my winter project . . . my car does not handle like a Yacht but it just has a few too may rattles and squeaks. :wink:

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
New shocks and springs would be the biggest improvement. Insulators only if really bad, and clean and repack the bearing in the front struts. Check for loose tie-rods and ball joints. Loose bushings, but eventually do all poly bushings. I have a plastic steering coupler some where's. That's a plus. Then sway bar bushings. Are you talking about the rear control arm bushings? I just changed mine to aluminum and very easy job.


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