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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 10:24 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
I was in the process of taking the intake manifold off and while removing the vac line to the dist. the metal tubing broke off the diaphragm. Should I look for a used one or go electronic?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 11:30 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2013 3:42 pm
Posts: 282
Location: Rochdale, MA
I just had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors last month and the vacuum advance was removed. If you want you can have mine. Give me an address where you are located and I will drop it in the mail.

Adam

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Adam Perry
Datsun 260Z
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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
Awesome Adam thanks!
I'll PM you my addy.
In the future I may go modern.
I was looking at the Mallory distributors but HOLY S*** are they expensive.
I know you can do a swap for a newer 280ZX electronic.
Does anyone have input on which way to go?

I'm also in the process of doing the clutch.
While taking the headpipe studs off the exhaust, of course the 44 year old hardware twisted off in a rusted mess.
This is why I'm taking the intake off and the exhaust manifold.
While I'm there I may as well get rid of the smog equipment too including the tubes in the manifold.
I can't find a source for the 3 headpipe studs and thick nuts that attach to the exhaust flange.
Do I just use off the shelf studs/nuts of the same thread pitch?
Suggestions?

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Nov/70 late series one HLS3014777 Sunshine Yellow 919


Last edited by SurferD on Wed May 07, 2014 5:25 am, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2014 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
For less than $100 I got a PerTronix ignition system installed five years ago, and even bought a spare one for less than $75. It has never missed a beat and I have almost forgotten how to adjust point gaps. (Almost).

I guess the downside of an electronic ignitor would be that they give no warning before they quit. That's why I carry a spare.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/ ... 1a/12-4020

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2014 8:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
I was witness to the fact that Adam came to SurferD's rescue on this and hand-delivered a free distributor vacuum part at our meeting.

I love this Club.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 8:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Orange, CT
Frank T wrote:
I was witness to the fact that Adam came to SurferD's rescue on this and hand-delivered a free distributor vacuum part at our meeting.

I love this Club.

Yessir Adam came through and this club has lots of helpful folks.
I'll be installing it today.
Hopefully I can weld up the smog holes on my sandblasted exhaust manifold, touch up the paint then that's going on too.

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 9:53 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
["...weld up the smog holes..."]
So many of us have undone those air injection noZZles in the early manifolds, I'm sure somebody knows by now what siZe and thread capscrew would fill those holes.

When I removed my air pump and disassembled the smog control on my 1970 car, I just cut those little airpipes and rolled them up like toothpaste tubes. Car ran MUCH better after I did that.

Here's an EXCELLENT thread from Classic Z, regarding how to plug those holes. Read down to find the best discussion, where they cite size and thread of the plugs they used.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/exha ... ifold.html


Attachments:
File comment: An example of what you're trying to remove
Smog tubes.jpg
Smog tubes.jpg [ 109.23 KiB | Viewed 5010 times ]

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 2:57 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
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Location: Orange, CT
Thanks for the link I'm sure there's info I didn't even think to ask. That's what I took out already. Mine were practically welded with corrosion so I just cut the fittings flush. And drilled the tubes out from the other side. I'm sure I can't get the fittings out so I'm going to weld them shut. After a grind they'll never be visible. Look at that pic, why would anyone have put the scavenge tubes into an aftermarket header? All they do is disrupt the airflow.

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PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2014 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 12937
Location: CT
Maybe a California build, which would require some smog control measures we don't have to deal with?

I agree ~ the least amount of airflow interference, the better. I was never sure I undrstd Datsun's idea for this system, anyway. There are several varieties of smog control, crankcase ventilation, exhaust gas recirculation, exhaust scavenging, etc. This system blows clean air into the exhaust port to make the exhaust more re-combustible, I guess? All I know for sure is that as soon as my air pump froZe up, I cut the belt and cut those little tubes. Then I curled them up with vicegrips and the car ran better from that point on.
HOWEVER, it ran better with a touch of choke, and ran better still when I replaced my recommended NGK BP6ES plugs with BP5ES plugs.

Your mileage may vary.

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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 7:57 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
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Location: rhode island
I have a manifold already done. Just mentioning. $25 if you want to save yourself from more work. $10 core charge. Welded holes, new studs, coated black.


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 1:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
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Location: Orange, CT
Paul wrote:
I have a manifold already done. Just mentioning. $25 if you want to save yourself from more work. $10 core charge. Welded holes, new studs, coated black.

Hi Paul I forgot you had that one. :x
I'm almost done with modifying it.
I had to time-cert 2 of the 3 lower studs. I got new studs and copper exhaust nuts.
I drilled out the plugs/tubes and tapped the hole M12x1.75.
I have some old wheel studs that I'll weld in and that should be that.
The only concern is using regular steel weld wire.
Cownalloys makes a nice nickel, iron, maganese wire made for cast iron but it's $80 a spool and special order.
I'm going to take my chances and if I F it up I'll be calling you.
What about that horn you were going to check for me?

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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 9:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 5:38 pm
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Location: Orange, CT
Well my friend Mr. Murphy stopped by today to help out.
The wheel studs I was going to use turned out to be M12x1.5 :evil:
So it's off to Home Depot tomorrow to get M12x1.75 bolts.
Fortunately they carry metric stuff now.
Actually a bolt will give me a better surface to weld after I bevel the edges and will look better ground down.
I would order from Belmetric but I just got a delivery from them and the shipping is almost $8 which makes it prohibitive plus I don't want to wait.

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PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2014 7:39 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3098
Location: rhode island
Ok I see you have it under control. I went threw all that work, then before I could put it on I got a header. :roll: I haven't found a working horn yet.


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