280ZX non-turbo fires from cold immediately as usual, then stalls after 5 seconds. Starts up again straight away - BUT - no tach, no diagnostic light, no temp gauge, no oil pressure gauge. Amp gauge working, showing 14 amp charge, but red warning light on. Clock works too.
Drive 1/2 a mile and tach bounces into life and all other gauges function normally. Red charge warning lamp off.
Happened the last two cold mornings, never before. I replaced the ignition switch a couple of years ago, so doubt that it is the problem.

Any ideas?????????????

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ

Do you figure the "1/2 mile down the road" equates to the temperature rising enough to make the gauge move, or didn't you notice?

Is there some kind of Cold Start valve on your fuel injection system? (just a guess ~ I'm not familiar with the fuelie cars).

Maybe if we talk this thru we can decide where you should look.

Frank

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1970 240Z

Gremlins

Re-reading it, I would first suspect the ignition switch, even tho you replaced it.
I mean, don't the symptoms sound identical to turning the key to 'ON' before you turn it to START?
An electrical open in the switch (or a sloppy key lock) could have the exact same result. Driving it a ways down the road might 'bounce' something into contact....?

I dunno ~ just guessing. But your description certainly sounds like the key isn't "on" all the way, doesn't it? Maybe the cold temperature doesn't have anything to do with it ~ maybe the key or switch are simply wearing out (again).

Even when you start it and then release the key, it stalls...it may be failing to rotate all the way back to ON.
It may be that when you start it again, the START circuit completes (which is separate from the accessories), but when you release the key it doesn't rotate properly back to the ON position, so the accessories don't yet get power, and you get those readings. Drive it a bit and the key or switch vibrate into the proper contact? Just a guess.

Try turning the key back and forth very slightly next time you start it ~ see if you can duplicate the complaint (and the solution) simply by wiggling the key a bit? I hope the key is just falling into a 'dead zone' btwn START and ON when you release it.

It might be something more complex, but the key & switch are the first things that come to my mind.

What year is the car, please? We can look at the ignition switch schematic and see if we could trace-out a duplicate of your complaint.
It's place to start from.

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1970 240Z

I would start with the fusible links, (pass. side shock tower,) and make sure they are good and the contacts are not corroded. People have taken those out and replaced with Maxi fuses.

I have a gut feel that the ambient low temperature is the culprit rather than a bad contact in the ign switch. I'll give the ignition switch a wiggle, but doubt that it is the problem source. I replaced the entire switch - steering column lock and attached electrical connector part. Fusible links sound promising. A bit of corrosion could increase resistance and be aggravated by cold weather. I'll clean them up before starting this morning and see what happens!

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ

Same problem this morning.
Cleaned all the contacts in the fusible link box. Didn't solve it. They were not corroded at all. The car has always been kept dry.
Ordered a new starter switch from RockAuto. Mercifully, I didn't shear off the security screws when I installed a new steering wheel lock 2 years ago. Will be an easy swap.

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ

Just read the workshop manual for my 1980 280ZX. Given that the ignition light does not come on when I turn the key (only the seat belt warning light comes on) the problem may be a faulty alternator. It is the original part.
Think I'll try this route....
Replace the ignition switch first.
No joy, replace the ignition and accessory relay. I hear this clicking when the key is turned and doubt it is the cause, but best to replace cheap and easy first.
If this fails, I'll replace the alternator. It's a relief to see them still available cheaply.
How does this plan sound

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ

Next would be to clean Battery terminals real good, and check charging voltage, should be around 14v. 12v. no good and should hold 14v with all accessories on. It does sound like alternator. To rule out ignition switch, I have made little wires with blades and direct wire it, it there is an issue with it Direct wired its not the ignition switch. They don't go bad that often, and I have a hand full of them. Also keep in mind a dead battery can kill an alternator, so check that out as well.

Thanks for the advice everyone. Reading the manual, I too think it's probably the alternator. Not a bad idea to get one while they are still around anyway.
Rock Auto offer Pure Energy, ACDelco, Remy and Beck/Arnley.
Any opinions on which one to go for, or avoid

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ

I would go with Beck Arnley.