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PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 9:51 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 1644
It's done. My first "real" contribution to the Z community. Hope this helps some rookie out. Parts list with prices and part numbers is attached.

This is a write up of how I changed multiple things in the engine bay. When I first started looking for how to take apart items in the bay to do a timing belt job, as well as other maintenance items, I could not find something that was spelt out for me in a detailed fashion. I resorted to using the Haynes, the FSM and any Z nut I could get in touch with. Please note that this should not (and is not meant to) replace the Haynes or the FSM (Factory Service Manual). This write up is meant to be an in-depth explanation of how I did things myself, as well as the order I did them in. Having done nothing more than an oil change on a car before, this seemed like a daunting project. By taking my time, reading plenty of information on it and purchasing all the right parts I not only finished the project but also did it correctly.

Things You Will (May?) Need:

-2 Hose Clamps .25-2.25" size
-Pulley Puller
-Basic Wrench Set
-Torque Wrench
-1/2" to 3/8" Adapter for torque wrench
-Haynes Manual (http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html)
-Factory Service Manual (http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html)

References:

Haynes Manual

Drive Belts: Page, 16 Chapter 1
Oil Seals: Page 17, Chapter 2A
Thermostat: Page 2, Chapter 3
Removing Fan and Shroud: Page 7, Chapter 3
Timing Belt: Page 14, Chapter 2A
Coolant Related Info: Page 22, Chapter 1

Factory Service Manual (FSM)
Em5-9 timing belt
LC-10-Water pump
LC-11-Thermostat
LC-13-Radiator
LC-14-Cooling Fan
LC-15-Electric Cooling Fan for Turbocharger

These are the parts that I changed on my 1984 Z31 Turbo, and which will be explained how to change in this write up:

Timing Belt
Water Pump
Water Pump Gasket
Thermostat
Thermostat Housing Gasket
4" Engine to Pipe Hose (It connects the metal pipe to the Thermostat Housing)
Tensioner Spring
Tensioner
Tensioner Stud
Tensioner Washer
Tensioner Lock Washer
Tensioner Nut
Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor (CHTS)
Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Sub Harness
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
Front Crank Seal Plate
Alternator To Crank Pulley Drive Belt
AC to Idler To Crank Pulley Drive Belt
Power Steering to Crank Pulley Drive Belt

Some of these parts are "must change" parts, others can be changed because they're super cheap and super easy to change (I.E. drive belts)

These are parts that many will also suggest you change. However, being that this was the first time I did this job myself, I didn't feel comfortable doing this much, as I could see myself doing more harm than good.

-Coolant bypass hose (its the hose that's on the top part of the thermostat, the inlet) It's a 4"L shaped hose, behind the timing belt back cover. You'll see it when your get there…pain in the butt to get to.
-Camshaft Seals-These require you to remove the camshaft sprockets. In the process you MAY mess up your TDC, a risk you need to decide worth taking. Mine weren't leaking. I decided to take the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach here, as opposed to the "while you're in there take care of it" approach.
-Crankshaft Seal- Similar to the above, but this time you have to remove the crankshaft sprocket (AKA crank gear). You're going to need a puller for this. The hard part is separating the gear from the rear crank plate, to get enough space for the puller. You will inevitably damage the rear crank seal plate, have one on hand for replacement. Again, I took the "if it ain't broke don't fix it approach". The layout on the crankshaft (as if you were standing looking at the bay) once you have taken the pulley off is front crank seal plate, crankshaft sprocket, rear crank seal plate.

All directions are given in terms of me standing in front of the engine bay unless otherwise noted. Photos are tagged using the last four numbers in the title. I.E. Photo titled DSC_6162.jpg will be referenced in the write up as Photo 6162.

I’d say about 90% of the bolts used in this part of the car are 10, 12, or 14mm. Have these sockets (in a deep version as well if you can) ready to go with the right drive.


Now the fun part; the process:

1. Get the car up on jack stands, ramps, or layers of wood. Place something behind and in front of each wheel to prevent it from sliding. Photo 6162

2. Place the transmission in 5th gear. This will facilitate the removal of the crankshaft retaining bolt later on.

3. Disconnect the battery. Negative ((-) and usually black) side first. You can even pull it out to check for rust on the battery tray, a common rust area on
Z31s.

4. Remove the lower plastic cover on the underside of the vehicle. There are 5 screws here. 3 in the center, 1 on each side. Photo 6132. The blue tape is holding the screws after I loosened them.

5. Begin disassembling the fan area. The easiest way to do this is to first unscrew the two screws that hold down the air tube to the fan shroud. Photo 6124A

6. Next remove the fan shroud. To do this, unscrew the metal bracket from the frame of the car. It is located directly behind the air filter box. Photo 6120

7. Next to be removed are three clips on the lower side of the fan shroud. They're a huge pain in the butt to remove. Get under the car. One will be on the left side, the other on the right. The third clip is on the right side, about halfway up the fan shroud. They are about 1.5" long by .5" wide. The best way to remove them is by using a flat head screw driver.

8. Carefully remove the fan shroud, paying special attention so that you do not damage the fan.

9. Remove the fan, which is held by 4 bolts. This is on page LC-14 of the FSM.

10. Now it's time to remove the drive belts. The first one is the hardest because of it's location. It's the power steering to crank pulley belt. I highly recommend looking at how to loosen the alternator belt first. They’ve got the same set up, however the alternator one is much more visible, and much more accessible (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 17 in the PDF). You can do the alternator belt first, but you obviously won’t be able to take it off until you do the other ones. Like I said, the theory and concept is the same for the power steering belt. Photo 6149.

11. The alternator to crank pulley drive belt to water pump is the easiest one. The alternator is on the left side of the engine bay, close to the ground. It is easiest to loosen from below the vehicle. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 17 in the PDF)

12. There are 2 bolts that have to be loosened to release the tension on this drive belt. Loosen the one that is on the bracket first. Next loosen the one that actually controls how far the alternator "swings". If the alternator does not start to move freely by itself, hit it with a rubber mallet or a block of wood and a hammer.

13. Next up is the idler, to crank pulley to ac belt. Release the tension here on the idler pulley. Do this by first unscrewing the bolt that holds the pulley together. It is directly above the fan cupeling. Follow the numbers in Photo 6148. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 16 in the PDF)

14. Unscrew the bolt directly above the idler pulley. This will release the tension in the belt enough to be able to pull it off. See above Picture 6148.

15. Remove the bracket that holds the idler pulley. There are two bolts that go into the engine block, and another that screws in near the AC motor. Photo 6165

16. Next remove the fan cupeling. There are four nuts that need to be taken off. Make sure it isn't leaking oil. Photo 6168. FSM LC-14

17. Pull off the black pulley that once held the alternator belt. This will give you eventual access to the water pump. Be sure to write down/photograph the direction that the plate came off. Refer to previous picture (6168) (it's the black plate)

18. Now it's time to drain the coolant. There is a drain plug in two locations. One is on the left side of the radiator (when laying with your back on the ground). It's very easy to get to. If the coolant isn't coming out fast enough for you, begin to open the radiator cap to let the air in. Do this very slowly. I set up a rig so that it wouldn't splatter everywhere. Picture 6183

19. The next step is VERY IMPORTANT. If you do not do this correctly, you will inevitably have coolant all over your garage floor and belts. On the right side of the block is a drain valve. Get a hose, and place it directly under the valve outlet. Begin to unscrew the bolt. Coolant will drip out. This is the coolant that is "behind" the thermostat. I.E. Anything that the thermostat did not let pass into the 4" hose that you will be replacing. FSM LC-10. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 23 in the PDF)

20. Loosen the fasteners holding the 4" rubber hose that connects the thermostat housing to the metal pipe. Slide them down the metal pipe, so that you do not lose them. Refer to next step for picture.

21. Loosen the wire fastener at the bottom of the metal pipe that connects it to another rubber hose. This will give you more wiggle room when trying to remove the 4" rubber hose from the thermostat housing. Picture 6193.

22. Also temporarily remove the one bolt that secures the metal tube to the block. Picture 6200

23. Remove the 4" rubber hose from the thermostat housing. If it comes off easily awesome. If not, get your favorite sharp object and slice it down the middle. Note that the metal pipe and the outlet of the thermostat tube actually go in pretty deep into the rubber hose. Use caution to not scratch the metal in the process of slicing off the old rubber hose. No picture here pal.

24. Unscrew the three bolts that secure the "water outlet" to the thermostat housing. Picture 6205.

25. Remove the thermostat. If it is stuck, that's probably because of the gasket sealer. Since this is also another part that you will be replacing, don't worry about damaging it. Wiggle it around. If it doesn't come out, place a flat head screw driver between the tip of the thermostat and the copper part. You should feel a springiness from it. Do this slowly while wiggling it back and forth, as there might still be left over coolant in the housing and you want to create as little of a mess as possible. No picture here pal.

26. Next up is the removal of the pulleys on the crankshaft. Yes, there is more than one way to do this. How many safe ways? 1 that I know of. Remove the 6 nuts on the timing crank pulley. Photo 6219

27. Make sure the car is in 5th gear.

28. Get a 22mm deep socket with a breaker bar or some kind of a metal
tube that go over your average wrench. (I used an old door insert pull up bar that was in the garage[2/3']). Line it up with the crankshaft bolt. Be sure to turn counter clockwise.

29. Take your time, be sure to not let the bar slip your grasp.

30. Once the bolt is removed, get your pulley puller. I used a 2 claw one from auto zone, which I purchased for roughly $30.

31. Remove the crankshaft pulley with the puller by following the directions found on the package.

32. Remove the front crank seal plate. Photo 6661

33. Remove the lower timing belt cover. (5 Screws) These screws are the same size as the ones on the upper timing.

34. Set the motor to TDC. Be sure all the timing marks line up. There's a dot on each of the sprockets (the 2 cam shaft sprockets as well as the 1 crankshaft sprocket), as well as dots on the timing belt shield. Line the three dots on the sprockets with the three dots on the shield. (For a more in depth explanation, view here: http://www.z31.com/repairs/tbelt.shtml) Crank with a wrench on the crank pulley bolt CLOCKWISE to get it to TDC. Make sure the car is in neutral for this. FSM EM-9 (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 2A page 14 in the PDF)

35. Loosen the nut on the tensioner. This will allow you to remove the timing belt with ease. Photo 6664

36. Now you can work on removing the water pump. 6 bolts. This is an easy one. Release it slowly, in case there's still coolant inside of it.

37. Shave off the remaining gasket with a razor blade. Be very careful to not gauge the gasket area. It is not something that is easily repairable.

38. Remove the tensioner and the tensioner spring. Pay close attention to how the washers are placed so that you can replicate this on the new setup later on. Photo 6678

39. Remove the tensioner stud. Use two bolts on it, they will naturally push against each other, and loosen the stud. Blow out the area with air, and replace the stud with a new one. Apply some kind of loctite/threadlocker to the thread of the stud. Torque this properly!

40. Now is a good time to remove the CHTS and CHTS Sub-Harness. Unplug the harness near the block first, it's the easiest. Photos are in step 41.

41. Remove the other head from the CHTS. A good set of pliers will do the trick here. Don't be afraid to break it. You're going to replace it anyway.

42. Now, another tough part. Removing the CHTS. The only thing that I found that worked here was a medium deep 3/4" socket, with a medium extender. If it's too long, it won't fit behind the shield. Too short and it won't make it around the plastic head on the sensor. A real pain in the butt. My setup: Photos 6691/6733

43. As you took it apart, put it back together. Some people will recommend placing layer of Teflon tape around the threads of the sensor. Personally, It was too tight of a squeeze for me to do that. Use your common sense here.

44. Plug the CHTS Sub harness into both ends.

45. Now move on to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. (ECTS) This is on the left side of the plenum cover. It's tiny. Unplug the sensor's clip. Get a deep drive socket with an extender to make easy work of it. Be careful not to drop it in the process of removal. Watch this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_8P-rMFOeA) at 1:35 he identifies the ECTS.

46. Install the new ECTS. This one I had no problem with a layer of Teflon tape. Again, be careful not to drop the sensor in the array of wires.

47. Install the new tensioner, replace the conical washer, and put the new nut on. (Refer back to step 35 on how you removed it)

48. Install the new belt. Pay attention to the direction that you put the belt on. If your belt has white dots on it, try to line those up with the same dots you used to set the TDC. Pay special attention to tensioning the belt properly. Double check your work. There should be 40 teeth between the cam pulleys, 43 between the driver side cam and the crank pulley. (Refer to step 34 as to how you set the TDC.) (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 2A page 15 in the PDF).

49. Now its time for the water pump installation. Apply a gasket sealer to the water pump, place the gasket on top of that, and place gasket sealer on the gasket. The gasket sealer should be applied in a 1/8" bead all around circle each hole bolt hole on the gasket and the water pump. This will ensure a sealed joint between the three materials. The unique bolt of the 6 goes on the top right of the water pump. Apply some thread lock to the bolts for good measure.

50. Place the lower timing belt cover back on.

51. Place the front crank seal plate back on. Photo 662 shows how my old one came off, the picture was taken facing the engine.

52. Place the crankshaft pulley as well as the timing pulley back on the crankshaft. Be sure that it seats correctly on the woodruff key of the crankshaft. The easiest way to check is from underneath the car. Insert and torque the crankshaft bolt properly. This is an essential step. See the torque tables I have included.

53. Next up is the new thermostat. Be sure that you have completely
removed the left over gasket and gasket sealer on the thermostat housing as well as the water outlet. You should be able to peel most of it off/use a razor blade for it. I used some steel wool to really give it a smooth finish

54. Apply the gasket and gasket sealer to the water outlet the same way you applied it to the water pump. MAKE SURE YOU PUT IN THE THERMOSTAT! The jigglier should be on the top side. The water outlet has an arrow, make sure you place the arrow pointing up, torque the three bolts to spec.

55. Attach the new 4" rubber hose to the thermostat housing. Don't be afraid to push it far up there, there's plenty of tube for the gap that it needs to cover. Picture 7155.

56. Apply some dish detergent to the exterior of the metal tube to facilitate it entering the new 4" rubber tube. Very little detergent will go a long way. Place the 2 new stainless steel hose clamps to secure the connection.

57. Fasten the metal tube back to the block. (Look at step #19)

58. Get the four screws that came with the new water pump (or reuse the old ones) They are threaded on both sides with a stopper in the middle. Thread them into the four holes on the rotating part of the water pump.

59. Now install the black pulley on the 4 screws. This is the pulley that the alternator belt sat on. The curvature should go like this: (water pump. Not: )water pump.

60. Attach the fan cupeling to the pulley with the four hexagonal nuts. Install the new alternator belt. It’s the ribbed one. To tension it, refer back to step 12. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 16 in the PDF)

61. Next install the crank pulley to idle pulley to AC belt. Tension it properly/to spec. Then the power steering to crank pulley belt. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 16 in the PDF)

62. Attach the fan. (6 bolts)

63. Attach the fan shroud. Refer to step 6

64. Make sure everything is closed; tightened; sealed etc.

65. Refer to the Haynes on how to fill the cooling system with coolant. (Take a look at the Haynes, Chapter 1 page 22 in the PDF)

66. Enjoy the drive!


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