I'm removing my turbo to replace the seals and the part I dreaded most was removing the exhaust manifold studs, I thought I got lucky that only one broke but when I took off the manifold I saw that it broke in the head.

Now since it's in the head I cant use vice grips or anything else and can't fit my drill in between to drill it out. What can I do?? I don't have much time to work on the car anymore so pulling the engine or taking off the head isn't the way to go right now.

No hope of driving the Z this summer

_________________
1984 Z31 Turbo

["...and can't fit my drill in between to drill it out"]

ne comprendo.

What do you mean? In btwn what and what? Picture?

_________________
1970 240Z

I can't fit my drill between the strut tower and the head. I tried to back it out with a small chisel and hammer but no luck.

_________________
1984 Z31 Turbo

You might be able to back it out by cutting a screw slot in it and turning it slowly with a short screw driver. Or, you can buy a HeliCoil and pull it that way. Either way, you need to start soaking it with penetrating oil for a few days (PB Blaster is good) so it cooperates with whatever method you use.

_________________
1970 240Z

try unbolting that side motor mount and the tranny mount to jack up the motor enough to give you a little bit ( and I do mean a little bit) more room to work. I am sorry to say but after encountering this numerous times it really is easier to just pull the head. Time vs time you will waste way more trying drill/tap/weld/heli-coil it out while operating all contorted with a right angle drill then if you just remove the head and do it like a gentleman. Not the answer you wanted to hear but I'm just trying to impart a little hard (l)earned knowledge.

sucky design, shame on Nissan for not making them 10mm studs from the get-go

["shame on Nissan for not making them 10mm studs from the get-go"]

Well, they tried everything they could think of to make it affordable for the average 25 y/o blue collar guy.

_________________
1970 240Z

My buddy has an 88 supra turbo and said that missing 1 stud would be fine, he's missing 2 on his manifold and running no problems. Well the one that broke on mine is the first one to the left on the manifold.

Threw everything back together and it does run but no boost and a horrible exhaust leak...not surprised. So by trying to fix the car I basically made it na woohoo.

_________________
1984 Z31 Turbo

Weld a nut to the stud, then back it out as normal. The heat from the weld will help it break loose. If there's not a lot of meat, you can weld a washer to the stud, then a nut to the washer.

_________________
280zx NA to T... http://z.modeltrainguide.com

I have had success with this method on a few isolated occasions but more often than not it doesn't work. The years of accumulated grime and oil are nearly impossible to clean off adequately and end up contaminating the weld and snapping off once torque is applied.

The welding is a good plan, but like said, it still is not a guarantee. Just went threw that, and could not get the weld to out do the torque required to remove it. At the moment the leak is almost unheard, but I will be removing this head in the winter, and drill it out on the DRILL PRESS. (key word) a hand held drill is the worst thing you can do. There is no precise control, and once that drill bit finds it's path, that path it will take, and most likely it will be crooked. I got lucky and welded a stud on the broken stud and at least it is holding it in place for now. I didn't apply a lot of torque, but it is working for now. may this help.

The problem was the stud broke off below the surface of the head. I tried drilling it out but as Paul said it's hard to control it, especially at an awkward angle. I'm just gonna suck it up and take the head off..figured I'm do for head gaskets and timing belt soon anyways so might as well get it out of the way.

Anyone ever tried Loctite freeze and release on rusted bolts? I've had enough broken bolts this year

_________________
1984 Z31 Turbo

Take it from me, I just did headers on a Z31, and every nut had to be heated to remove, but when so, made the job so much Easier. Oxy/Acetylene torches are the way to go. And always use New studs. The one I didn't broke on install. The rest got new, I was just 2 short and cheated, now must pay. (next winter project)