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260 roadster 355 update
http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7390		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  john.durand [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:15 pm ]
Post subject:  260 roadster 355 update
New 355 mounted with tranny in. Need to modify 1 pipe left side to clear steering rod and need to change starter out for smaller high output starter to clear header. Right side wiring needs to be rerouted up towards shock tower to clear header. Then need to see if everything fits with hood on. Intake a little higher than one on 305. Scrambling to see if can make the Lime Rock trip on 30th. I also found that car squatting a bit in front with weight of the 305. Inside of front tires wearing about 1" band. Going to try to adjust via spring rubber(s). It's been a long time since I messed with the old 240 front suspension but I don't remember any camber adjustment. For now I'll rotate tires to see how it sits. Car handled great with a bit of neg. camber but tire wear becomes an issue. With most current use being cruizing vs xcross or track, guess I'll opt for even tire wear. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Jack

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Author:  Frank T [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Wow ~ serious progress!

Any way you can shield those master cylinders from all that header heat so the fluid doesn't break down?

Having owned a 1956 Austin Healey with a 1957 Corvette V8 in it, I have to ask how you guaranteed the driveline was aligned properly, and whether you got away with using the 305 motor mounts with the 355?

Frank
Author:  Filipe [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:44 pm ]
Post subject: 
Pretty pretty!
Author:  john.durand [ Fri Mar 22, 2013 9:55 pm ]
Post subject:  engine swap
actually the slave cylinder is where the problem was with the 305. I swapped it out for an adjustable slave to get more throw and clearance. Also that's why I went from cast headers to ceramic coated headers. They should keep much more heat in the pipes. I might fashion an alum. heat shield if any issues. Alignment with the 305 was good and the 355 pretty much fits same on center line, but had to modify mounts just a bit. If you zoom into the picture of the left side header you can see the mount just ahead of he 2nd pipe was relieved about 3/4".
Last year I had replaced the 4spd. saginaw witn a 5spd tremek, ford clutch and new drive shaft. Saginaw had a side mtd. Hurst shifter and the tremek is ctr. mtd. so had to fill in the hole and cut a new one for the rear most shift location on tremek. This put the shifter under the dash so had to cut the old stick, weld in a bent bar between the 2 halves to bring it out to where I wanted it. I had hoped for a short stick/tight pattern, but extending the stick creates a bit more travel. Compromise is sometimes not avoidable. Jack
Author:  jtang [ Sat Mar 23, 2013 12:33 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey, lookin' good!

I am not sure what's out there for camber adjustment on s30's. Do they sell any top-hat adjustment plates? I ran a set on my ae86 and it was great. You can adjust the front camber with a floor jack and a allen key... took about 5 minutes.
Author:  john.durand [ Sat Mar 23, 2013 9:55 pm ]
Post subject:  260 sbc 355
We discussed getting into plates for the camber. I'm going to try some spring rubbers 1st to see if I can lift the front a bit, I was bottoming out on road crowns anyway. This might let the camber + a little. I'm also trying to keep the scope of this years work to the engine swap and a few small things like the left side gauge light, getting a fuel gauge to work, fixing left side wheel cylinder, (replace or rebuild). Body work will be the last thing on my list. It's a 10 footer, but I'll probably need to go to an R200 LSD and brake and suspension will be next along with tires. My "controller" is starting to run the numbers. OOPS!
Jack
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