Ok after months of trying to chase down my problem I'm finally tapping out I think. I need someone else to look at this for me. After accidentally shorting out my maxi fuse box for the injection when drilling a mounting hole for the box and neglecting to remove the negative battery cable it has not ran right since. It runs pretty good when cold I'm able to rev it up without hesitation or stumble but once it is fully warmed up it stumbles and cuts out when given gas. And also idles poorly. Current going to have the battery checked cause I don't know if it's taking a charge anymore. I can jump the car and it will start but once off I got nothing in the battery. I just upgraded my alternator to a 90amp from an 88 Nissan Maxima. Only questionable thing was the connector for the back for the gauge. The gauge when running is functioning properly so I assume that it's correct. This is one of many brand new parts installed. So here is what has been replaced.

Fuel pump
Ignition switch
Ignition relay
Ecu swapped with another one same result
Alternator
Ignition coil
Upgraded to GM ignition control module
Distributor coil pickup
Spark plugs
Cap and rotor
Fuel injectors
Air filter
Throttle position sensor

So next ill have the battery tested and maybe look into replacing the AFM.
If anyone can come by with a multimeter this weekend and help me out that would be great. Thanks!

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Mike,
Thats ugly... Just curious was the TPS installed properly ?
I have never set one on a Nissan or am I certain If they need to be set.

this is the second one i put in. i put this one in before i had this exact issue. prior it was a weird stumble i got after replacing the injectors. i actually broke a bolt on one side. i plan on getting a throttle body and afm from a guy i met in New York. that and replacing the battery are the next areas i am attacking.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Hey, what's with the GM ignition module? You already have a decent electronic ignition with the 280.

In any case, HEIs need to be on a good heat sink, could be overheating. Also, I seem to remember it grounds through the metal back of the module...crank it down.

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

I replaced it with that because the transistor ignition unit is pricey. I do think what I mounted it to might be an issue. I used a piece of aluminum adhesive exhaust wrap and then mounted it right next to the coil. I didn't have heat sink so I used dielectric grease. I read it would be ok using that. It does get pretty hot. Is that normal? And Brian i would love it if you could come take a look. I know you are very busy though. I could use some different eyes looking at it.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Dielectric grease is NOT a good thermal conductor. Who HECK told you to use that?

Go to a place like Best Buy and head to the section with PC components, get yourself an actual tube of thermal conductive paste in a syringe that's meant for filling the gap between a CPU and a heatsink. That stuff is actually DESIGNED to conduct heat. Make sure that ignition module is mounted to a nice piece of metal while you're at it, in case its on plastic or the conducting surface is just hanging in the breeze. That aluminium portion of the exhaust wrap might be conductive (if I'm understanding your wording right), but its paper thin... and how conductive is the adhesive portion?

I'll second Brian's sentiments as to WHY the GM module when you could get a fine 280zx dizzy with the ign matchbox on the side and hook it up easy-peezy, but you seem to have made your bed.

Also, for any electrical work on the car, your first action should be to disable the battery.

And where else are you smearing dielectric grease? Remember that stuff is electrically insulating (read: not conductive). You should only be putting it around the sealing points of electrical connections to keep moisture out, NOT on the electrical contacts themselves.

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-Chris

I read online somewhere. I'll definitely take care of that first. And I usually do remove the cable but this time I had a brain fart. I'll also change what I have it mounted to. As to why? It's still cheaper and can be purchased at any local parts store. And since it's more of an ad on removing it and reverting back is easy. For me it's about cost and keeping my car running. Plus it's such a small item people wouldn't notice. As for the alternator that's why I went with a Nissan product. So I'll take care of this when I can buy would still love to have someone take a look. So without the heat sink will it just not function properly?

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Without a heat sink or proper thermal conduction, it will fry itself given the chance. Buy cheap, buy twice it would seem may be the case. You might have to get another one at this point, unless the unit you have hasn't been compromised already. I'd make sure the actual contact surface was bare metal as well, not covered in paint. Even better, a big thick bracket of copper or aluminium to mount it to like the one that came with my Haltech triple channel ignitor.

If your intention is to add something easily that can also be easily reverted back to stock, the 280zx dizzy wins again. Custom items don't often fit into this category. When you go the custom route of adding items not made for the car and/or made by another manufacturer entirely, you really need to research every detail about the item you install and know how it works and what it needs to live happily with the rest of the car.

Then again, we don't even know if that's the exact problem yet, I just know from what I'm reading that the ignition module sounds like it was installed incorrectly and thus overheats.

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-Chris

ALSO:

What year is your Z? Did it come with an external voltage regulator for the alternator? I'd bet the Maxima alternator is internally regulated. What does the engine do when it cuts out? Is it abrupt? Can you pull the plugs and see a spark even after it dies? Will it crank after the engine dies? What is your fuel pressure? do you have a timing light?

You're not saving any money by blindly changing all these parts out with new ones. Go back to the basics, research how to and what tools are required for basic diagnostics. Download and print the 280z EFI manual and FSM along with troubleshooting sections.

Basics Basics Basics Basics Basics!

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-Chris

It will stay running. I can hear the flap of the AFM slamming closed. I have an inline fuel gauge installed. Fuel pressure is around 30/31 psi. Need to get a multimeter so I can start testing sensors etc etc. I have the fsm. I'm not exactly great at all of this. So it's easier for me to look at my wiring diragrams and read through forums. Mine is a 78 so it's internally regulated. Did my research on this. I'd rather have someone actually watch the car and see how it runs. They might know exactly what's wrong. Which will be faster than me testing stuff and replacing part after part. Plus having a newborn now my time is very valuable.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

And no i do have a timing light nor do I know how to check timing.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

so if someone had both and could come over and lend me a hand diagnosing the problem it would be greatly appreciated.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

And this is understandable, but unfortunately your window of available "Z" time will likely narrow as time progresses. My advice though is still to study upon and learn the basics as much as possible... BEFORE custom modifications like this. Buy/rent library books on automotive maintenance, find videos of the processes from (known & reputable) sources on the internet. Gather a supply of basic diagnostic tools (timing light, spark plug gapper, feeler gauges, test light & MULTIMETER), they're not too expensive. Spend time with someone else with experience who's willing to go over the basics of tuning and maintenance with you. If you wait until after problems like these come about, especially after altering the original car on your own caused a problem, they will likely be annoyed.

I don't mean to come across as condescending with this. But you've had this car for several years though, since around the time I did my turbo swap. You just admitted that you still don't have a timing light, or a multimeter, nor do you know how to check timing. You have however replaced a few parts with non-standard items, and it seems like a lot of the basic troubleshooting issues you had back then are still dogging you. Owning an older car like the Z is really similar to a child: they're higher maintenance and need regular attention to stay running, and you must at least know the basics of how to keep them from becoming broken. These cars are not modern cars, they're extremely simple in how they operate, there is no voodoo magic or gnomes living inside the ECU. If you're not willing/can't spare the time to learn the basics, pay a mechanic.

I can't physically help you since I live farther away an also have obligations to attend to, so I'm making do with providing advice over the internet. But I need to stress that if you're going to own one of these cars, but at the same time want to save money AND the time it takes to repair regular automotive issues, you need to NEED to take the time to learn the basics of how to diagnose and repair things yourself. This isn't just about the current issue, but also everything in the future. As the car ages, it's only going to get worse.

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-Chris

I appreciate the advice. I have a bunch of tools that I have gathered through the years. I can do pretty much anything on a car in terms of installing a part. Heck I put a gas tank in just recently right on the ground. Troubleshooting has really been my only weakness. If I hear the brakes grinding I replace them. Most of my online sources have been good Z sites. Minus the dielectric grease one. What I really need to do with this car is a complete rewire. Well I will finally look into getting a timing light and multimeter. I got all the other stuff. Thanks for the help Chris.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

and where could i find a reasonably priced 280zx distributor? and how far will i have to drive to get it is the question?

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694