The problem that I am havings is this. Before winter I drove the z around the block (cant go to far because it is not street legal yet) then put in the garage for the winter, no problems. When the weather warmed up and I went to take the z out of the garage it would not go into gear. No matter how much I pump the pedal there seems to be no pressure. The pedal just goes striaght to the floor. Someone suggested I replace the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hose. Since I have purchased the parts already I figure why not cant hurt. Oh yeah, also found the driver side rear wheel to be locked up? Any suggestions? Just trying to get the z on the road,wont be a show car just something to enjoy. It seems like the longer it sits idle the more things are going wrong.

Went to the Lime Rock event, my first event since joining, good times.
Thank you to Collin from Beacan, NY who let me join him for the parade laps.

Yes, many suggestions for the froZen rear wheel. It's a brake. This happens to old Z carz which sit for a long time and don't get driven.

We've all attacked this problem from our own personal angles. Some of us jack the rear wheel up and try turning it in reverse. If the car starts, we try jacking both rear wheels off the deck and reversing in gear. Sometimes that just breaks it free. The real problems ariZe if it doesn't.

That can mean it's a froZen handbrake or froZen expanding brake shoes. If it's brake shoes, remove the tire (return the lug nuts to protect the lug threads), remove the clevis pin (behind the brake face) and lubricate everything you can see which should move. Insert a brake tool or flat blade screwdriver to turn the star nut brake adjusting wheel inside, releasing the brake shoes from the drum (retract them as far as they'll go).

Tap the finned aluminum brake drum all around with a SOFT hammer, while trying to turn it or pull it off. A bar or long screwdriver woven btwn the lug nuts (replace them to protect the lug threads) can help as a lever to turn the reluctant wheel.

Eventually you will succeed in removing the finned aluminum brake drum. Douche the entire brake system with brake cleaning fluid, remove everything and lubricate the contact points around the brake plate. Re-install and check everything for movement. This is a good time to bleed and replace the brake fluid, too.

Somebody tell him what to do for a froZen handbrake cable, please? It's never happened to me.


Frank

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1970 240Z

Hi Jeff:
First Problem - - If your clutch master cylinder is full - and you have already tried bleeding the slave then it is unlikely that you need to change all them out. Matter of fact doing so might introduce a new set of problems - before you have actually addressed the actual problem.

Your Clutch disc has most likely bonded itself to the flywheel. This happens when you put a Z away with everything warmed up - then let it sit for months. Moisture condenses on the flywheel - and then rust forms a bond with the clutch disc.

To break that bond - you have to get the car running by starting it in gear. So push the car out of the garage - put the transmission in Neutral - and start the engine. Let it warm up, fully charge the battery etc.

The push it to a place where you can safely start it in 1st or even 2nd gear. An empty side street.. maybe in front of your garage...

Hold the clutch pedal down, put the transmission in 1st or 2nd gear - and start the engine - the car should start easily and start moving forward. Give it a little gas to get the car rolling about 20 to 25 mph. Then - holding the clutch pedal down - you have to yank on the E-Brake hard enough to stop the rear wheels from turning - while at the same time - you give the car even more gas.

Keeping the engine running and rev'ing - while you stop the rear wheels from turning - will break the rust bond loose. You'll know when it brakes loose - because at that point you will have pressure/resistance in the clutch pedal. You may have to do this two, three or four times. Everything in the drive train is very tough so don't worry about hurting anything.

Second Problem - if the rear wheel is frozen - it is usually caused by pulling the E-Brake on when the car is stored. Rolling the car backward - will usually cause the rear brake shoes to release their grip. Rolling it forward will only tighten the grip. If you have to - jack up the rear of the car - and roll the car out of the garage on the jack {floor jack}.

FWIW,
Carl B.