I come to my friends from CT when I need a sanity check.
For reference, it was 123f on the temp indicator in my W126 today.
Despite the heat I am working on my Z.

Question:
Snap-in side-axles on my 4.375 R200 CLSD snap in great, but I can wiggle them up and down a bit.
I even made a video: http://youtu.be/ZM1sx5fnxBA

Does anybody have any particular knowledge in this area?
Or an R200 sitting around to cross-check for me?

Thank you in advance.
Tj

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD

No ~ that can't be good. What bearings are you using? Are you 100% sure they are for the R200 and not for the R180?

(Glad to zee you back in here, even if it's with problems! )

Frank

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1970 240Z

I bought the 4.375 CLSD from a Hybridz member.
Took it apart, inspected everything and shimmed the clutches.

I purchased snap-in side axles locally, then bought another set to be sure.

Seems those should be machine-tight.
But both sets have that wiggle.

So, either it is normal, or abnormal.
On account of me not knowing, I present myself to the experts...

Tj

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD

It ain't me, babe.

That just doesn't look right to me, at all. Let's get some differential wiZards on here.....

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1970 240Z

- What car did the 4.375 R200 CLSD come out of originally?

- Are you using the factory stub axles that came with the 4.375, or are you using Datsun Z stub axles?

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

Unknown origin of the Long-nose 4.375 CLSD.
I think Dave from Arizona Zcar imported a ton of them.

I am using snap-in side-axles from a stock R200 280z I assume.

Stub axles on the wheel side are a different pending upgrade.

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD

I would take off the rear cover and look inside to see exactly what's going on. Looks like you have it in the car though.

The tips of the stubs lock into the center of the R200 differently on early and late models, but shouldn't result in play. I'll post a photo if the differences when I get home.

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

Would be helpful if somebody had an R200 sitting next to them and could wiggle the output shafts and see if they are tight or free.

Maybe they are supposed to be like that.
Maybe the later CLSD used different side-shafts (CV) and the dimensions are diffferent.

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD

I can't help. My R200 is mounted in the car and is not an LSD.

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1970 240Z

I'm no LSD guru and the internals are different than the standard R200.

But I can tell you that once the stub able locks into the circlip in the R200, its should be solid, no wiggle. If you DID have slop there it would wear out the bearings, be very noisy, the halfshaft would pop out .

I suspect you need to go Arizona ZCAR and ask them what brand/model this R200 came on, and try to source a set of those stub axles.

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

After a bunch of checking it sounds like this slight wiggle of the output axles on the R200 CLSD is common and perhaps normal.

Reason for the initial inquiry- vibration that starts at ~60mph and gets increasingly angry and intense. Even does it on jackstands with wheels, halfshafts and side axles removed. Once DS removed it stops. Have replaced driveshaft with new even.

Now I must agree with some Hybridz posters that pinion angle is to blame. When I installed the 4.375clsd I used an AZC solid front mount, then switched to an R/T-Energy style, both of which lower diffy nose about .5"

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD

Well, no argument that the driveline angle is critical within a few degrees on any car, especially the S30. But I still can't accept that much 'slop' in the axle stubs being factory-approved.

I suppose you could employ the old Soviet space program approach and 'drive it until it fails', then fix what breaks?

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1970 240Z

On the vibration issue.

To get the driveline angles correct be careful following the majority of methods in the internet...as they are for American cars with rear leaf springs...the rear angle changes under acceleration.

On Zs the diff is fixed so the easiest method to align the driveangle is to raise/lower the rear of the trans by adding spacers to the mount to lower it, or cut it to raise it. On my car stock, the engine was about 3 degrees down in the back and 3 degrees up at the front of the diff. The correct method is to have them cancel each other with opposite values(+2, -2 , +5, -5, etc.)


The magic tool to help you with this is this angle finder from Harbor Freight. Its magnetic and will get you within .1mm.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-angle-gauge-95998.html

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

I am thinking about dropping the rear of the diff some with spacers on mustache bar mounts. Or just going back to a stock mount (boring) .

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240z DCOE40 / F54 / N42 / L490 Isky
Thank you Total Seal!
Not a DD