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| Changing differential gear ratio http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6964 |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 8:30 pm ] |
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Trying to picture what you've done to get it to move. Without any fasteners, shouldn't it just fall out? Maybe there's enough 40 wt grease holding it in there? I picture placing it upside down and 'dropping' it onto a soft surface. The intertia might let it fall out. Or heat the rear end of the case and then try pulling it or prying it (careful) or dropping it? If worse comes to worse, you could tie the case to one bumper, tie the flange to your buddy's bumper.......... 
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| Author: | jtang [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:12 pm ] | ||
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This is my method:
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| Author: | Frank T [ Sat Feb 16, 2013 9:26 pm ] |
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Is there a drift key involved under there somewhere? Anybody know? I would be tempted to try knocking it FORWARD a bit, to search the whole shaft for a drift key, but that's just an impetuous guess. Many things move better with a little heat. This might be a press-fit item which would cooperate if you heated the flange up a bit. Heat & tap while pulling. But do check for a drift key? |
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| Author: | jtang [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 3:19 am ] |
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I don't see anything about a drift key in the factory service manual or the haynes manual... both say to pop the pinion nut off then use a puller. I guess it might just be seized up (age or low temperatures outside?). |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 10:44 am ] |
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Well, except for that 3rd hook on the puller, it looks like you're doing it right. And if the manual says it should come off, eventually it will. I've always thought spray lubricants and direct flame heat were mutually exclusive (garage fires are scary events), but one or the other should help you. In my day we believed you "never force anything. Just get a bigger hammer". You could approach this with the idea of lessening the resistance or increasing your force. |
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| Author: | jtang [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:48 pm ] |
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I managed to break it free! I always seem to underestimate the power of a good penetrating lubricant (PBlaster in this case). Let it soak overnight and applied pressure for a few hours. Tightened a tiny bit every now and then. Finally I was tightening it and heard a pop/crack and then it started to slowly slide off. |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Sun Feb 17, 2013 1:56 pm ] |
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You're bonding with your Z. Life is full of little experiences like this. You'll remember them each time you look at your car. And whenever you hear a weird noise, your mind will picture all these parts you've worked on and replaced. It's a grand relationship. Nice work. |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Wed Feb 27, 2013 8:52 pm ] |
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10 days without a progress report???! What's happening with this? |
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| Author: | jtang [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:24 am ] |
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Still alive, don't worry! Been a bit bogged down by life. I got both halfshafts popped out of the old diff though. Just have to disconnect the driveshaft from the front of the old diff then I can drop the old one out. |
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| Author: | Brotus7 [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:39 am ] |
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When you torque the pinion nut onto the other diff, be sure the check the running torque since that nut sets the preload on the pinion bearings. I haven't torn open an R200 yet, but is there any shimming you need to do to ensure you have the ring gear at the proper lateral location? On the R180, there are some shims on the side tapered roller bearings to adjust preload and lateral placement. EDIT: Here's a good exploded view of the R200. It looks like #12,13 are spacers. It also has the info for setting pinion height and side bearing preload. Let me know if you need to make any meaurements, I just went through the same thing with my R180. http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 828023.pdf |
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| Author: | Paul [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:07 am ] |
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There is a crush sleeve in there that I have not been able to find yet. So the torque spec is not accurate. I put alot of red locktight on that nut, and have gotten pretty good at setting it by feel. Then grease up the gears and see how the contact areas are from the pinion to ring gear. If I'm wrong about this, kick me.......just not hard. 
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| Author: | jtang [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 5:48 pm ] |
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Paul wrote: Then greese up the gears and see how the contact areas are from the pinion to ring gear.
Yup, this was my plan. |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:06 pm ] |
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We used to stick feeler gauges in there to measure backlash, and coat one side of the gear teeth with blue witness color, to see how much contact area we were getting when they meshed. |
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| Author: | Paul [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:44 am ] |
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Blue witness? Interesting. Where would you find this? Or is it under the witness protection agency.
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| Author: | Frank T [ Fri Mar 01, 2013 9:54 am ] |
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 Haha!
Well, that's what we used back in 1963-67. Today I think it's called Persian Blue. |
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