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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:23 pm 
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Location: New Haven, CT
More updates...

I was able to use our heavy duty bench vice at work to clamp down the open diff and remove the ring gear bolts to free up the 3.9 ring gear. No problems!

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But then I tried to remove the ring gear attached to the LSD. The open diff was easy to clamp in the vice because the bottom part is sort of rectangular. The LSD, however, is in a cast round case. It kept wanting to turn a bit in the vice. I was worried about popping it out of the vice and it falling and getting damaged and/or hurting me in the process, so I stopped.

I had considered clamping the vice down even harder, but I am hesitant to do so because it is a cast part, after all.

Anyone have any advice on this?? I was clamping it fairly hard...

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:07 am 
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Location: CT
You could make a special tool which would bolt onto the housing, then use force on the tool instead of the housing itself. That way nothing turns or slips, and any damage gets done to the brace/tool instead of to the part you will use on your car.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:27 am 
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Hmm, I am not sure where I would have it bolt onto.

Here's a photo of the LSD + ring gear I need to take off:

Image

HMM, I am now thinking if I had placed some wood on both sides of the LSD, it would have helped with clamping force? And now I'm thinking it was bad to clamp metal to metal...

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Justin
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:27 am 
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Take it to a dealer or a machine shop and let them do it safely.
The loss of a gear set springing free under pressure would be a costly lesson, but the loss of an eye or a finger would be a longer reminder.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:43 am 
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Location: rhode island
Just use an Impact gun.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 11:02 am 
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And get those Porsche center caps away from that Datsun part. :evil:

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 12:52 pm 
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impact gun is fine to remove the bolts. As far as clamping to reinstall w/ a torque wrench....make sure you clamp it on the housing in a large enough bench vise...clean all the oil off w/ brake cleaner or whatever. It would be extremely difficult to deform that case.....pretty much impossible so don't be afraid to put a little pressure on it. I would avoid wedging anyhting into the holes in the case itself, for obvious reasons.
To be honest with you, many years (10 maybe?) ago I reinstalled a ring gear onto case with an impact gun and to my knowledge that car is still running and driving to this day with no ill effects to speak of. Not condoning it, but as long as the backlash and shims are not changed then the rest of it is a pretty rugged piece and not-so-sensitive to ballerina spec FSM reassembly.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:13 pm 
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Thanks guys! I'll take another crack at it.

Hahaha, yeah... about those Porsche center caps... :wink:
... too many projects!

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Justin
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:37 pm 
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I guess this thread has turned into my LSD + ring/pinion swap.

I finally got the ring gear off. I tried an impact gun and got absolutely nowhere!! I decided to use a little heat. I am guessing the previous owner put high strength loctite on the bolts. Once I heated up the bolt itself just a little bit (<5 seconds with a propane torch), the bolt came off with the breaker bar easily (about 100 ft lbs). There was also a pretty nasty cancerous smell, so I am guessing there were some crazy chemical bonds in there.

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So then I cleaned up all the mating surfaces and the bolts.

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And then put the loctite on all the mating surfaces and the threads and went to work! I had a heck of a time aligning the ring gear correctly but I finally figured out how to do it (thank you, rubber mallet!!).

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Next I changed out the side oil seals on the r200 diff. National brand, part #223542.

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And drove the new ones in, greased them up.

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At this point I really wanted to drop the LSD in and get those bearing caps bolted on, but it was just wayyyy too cold outside. My fingers were numb from touching all the cold tools and parts. I suppose I should also remove the pinion nut before I seal it all up too (since I have to swap the companion flange with the R200 currently on my car).

Things to do:

Remove pinion nut... it will be a pain. Torque spec supposed to be 130ish ft-lbs (27mm nut).

Clean up rear diff cover.

Install LSD+ring gear, new gasket, diff cover.

Drop R200 from my car, remove pinion nut off that.

Swap companion flanges (84-86 = "rectangular" and 87+ = "square" pattern for bolts connecting to driveshaft).

Install new R200 with LSD and 3.9:1 ratio into car.

Don't get crushed.

:D

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Justin
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 10:49 pm 
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Hey, nice, clean work! And the fact that you are concerned about getting crushed and know enough to stop work when your hands get numb gives us confidence that you will complete the rest of this project safely.

It's no fun if it ain't safe. Getting hurt is nothing to brag about.

I don't recall if we asked this ~ what about your mustache bar? Will you use the old one? Does it need upgrade? New poly bushings, maybe? Will you mount one of those differential nose limiter thingies before reinstallation? How much backlash will you look for when setting the gears back in?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2013 11:41 pm 
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Thanks Frank! I hope so... haha. Maybe I should hit the gym and work on my bench press before I do the diff swap? :lol:

Hmm, what exactly is a mustache bar? I don't think the Z31 has one. We have a diff. mount. I'm just going to use the old one. Some people have fabbed up a poly diff. mount instead of the OE rubber one, but from what I have read, you really need to have poly subframe bushings installed at the same time (or else you break things).

I had thought about putting poly on everything, but decided to do all of that later down the road. Maybe it can be the next winter project or something :).

It's pretty well accepted in the z31 community that the backlash and gear meshing should be the same when the diff is swapped out (if all the same shims are used and in the same locations). I'll check it against the numbers in the factory service manual but I'm not too worried about it.

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Justin
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 12:28 pm 
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Oh yeah ~ you're working on an S31. I was emailing another guy at the same time about his work on his '73 240 and got too tired to sort the two of you out.

"Never mind". :oops:

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 5:51 pm 
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Alright ran into another snag... I can't get the companion flange to come off?

I was able to get the big 27mm pinion nut loose and carefully marked its location. The next step is to pull the companion flange (thing that connects to driveshaft) so I can swap it for mine (there is a different bolt pattern).

I am using a 3-jaw puller but the thing just doesn't want to come off! I am applying a lot of pressure (tightening down the puller bolt) but it won't budge. I don't want to break stuff so I thought I'd post before I resort to brute force...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:36 pm 
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This guy looks like he simply splits any retainers which give him trouble:

http://youtu.be/NSugiQPsQsw

(Toyota ~ not the same as yours)

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2013 6:47 pm 
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It looks the same (roughly) as mine, but he's splitting off the nut that holds the companion flange... I have gotten mine out safely. The problem is the actual flange isn't budging (no fasteners holding it). Hmmmmm.

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