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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 10:16 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
The R-200's are bigger than the R-180's if that helps, but also the R-180's have a center bolt through the flange that bolts to the inside of the Diff. The R-180's also have the aluminum side covers where the side seals go. And yea, breaker bars are for breaking because I broke mine. :? Side note: I need to buy a better quality breaker bar. :wink:


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:44 am
Posts: 588
Location: New Haven, CT
Has anybody used RTV on the rear diff cover? What kind is best to use?

Here's why...

Image

I have one week to get the car back together and ordering another one online is out of the question.

BTW that was the genius shipping of "Titan Direct".

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
:? Oooooooo.

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:44 am
Posts: 588
Location: New Haven, CT
Decided to go with ultra black permatex... I have been reading a lot of stuff on it. Sounds like many people choose to use this stuff instead of using a gasket. I personally am a traditional gasket user... but I guess I'll give it a try.

At least I got a full refund. Silly that I had to wait the whole week for such a useless package! Sigh... one more trip to the parts store.

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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 Post subject: re
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 9:34 pm
Posts: 362
Location: Hamden, CT
I've used black Permatex on my oil pan gasket with perfect results.

But gear oil can creep more than motor oil, I've always used Permatex High Tack Sealant (brush on) on my R200s....Permatex recommends it for differentials. The gasket you received must have been ancient or something to have fallen apart like that. Creating my own gaskets is an art I've never trusted...I would still stick with a Fel-pro + High tack. My $02.

BTW, I've had leaks with aftermarket side seals, go with the Nissan ones...not much more expensive.

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:21 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Go to Honda and grab some Honda Bond, or use the Nissan Red. But any will do.


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 Post subject: diffs
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Sep 23, 2011 2:10 pm
Posts: 380
Location: Tolland, CT
I looked at my diff. this weekend when up on the lift. Hadn't really paid much attention to that yet since what was in there did not seem stressed with the 305 SBC. I haven't driven the car hard yet either. Also, I didn't remember how to "differentiate" the 180/200 and the codes are on top.
When Frank posted the side by sides I decided to take a look, and I believe I have the 180 ....... OH NO! Doubtful it's going to stand up to the new 355 SBC so guess I'll be looking for best opportunity and economics. I'll be just cruising the roadster for awhile anyway while it's breaking in and my at home "controller" has thus far been very tollerant, but ........ Anyway, if anyone knows of or comes across a setup with half shafts I'd appreciate a shout out.
Jack

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John D .... original 240 past, 260v8Roadster current


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Location: CT
[" I didn't remember how to "differentiate" the 180/200"] Ooooooooohhh! :roll:

:lol:

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1970 240Z


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 9:36 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Main clue, if were the axle goes into the diff. has aluminum sides bolted on it's an R-180. R-200's have no little bolts on the side.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:44 am
Posts: 588
Location: New Haven, CT
I benchpress differentials for fun. It's out of the car again...

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:26 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 1644
Been following this on Z31P...my condolences brotha.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
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Location: rhode island
Benchpress? I curl one each hand. :lol: :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:22 pm 
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Location: New Haven, CT
:lol:

So... update on this. Got the old differential up and bolted in. Popped the axles in as well. Whats left is to reconnect things and the car will be road worthy again.

The reason why I had to reinstall the old diff is because the Nismo LSD I bought is a 30-spline unit--not 29. I didn't find this out until I plugged in my axles and.... huhhhhh I can spin the driveshaft and neither axle moves?? I had tested it outside of the car, but I guess the fit was very close so it didn't seem awful (that and I'm inexperienced in this area).

The P/O of the unit told me he used J30 axles, which are 29 spline and interchange readily with the Z31 axles. I took a look at those stubs again (thank goodness I actually have them...). They have the 5-bolt flange (same as J30 axles), but the stubs are 30 spline!! I should have checked this right off the bat.

But I have a plan.... since I have the 30-spline stubs that terminate in 5-bolt flanges, I can build hybrid axles. This has been done before (specifically to use the J30 VLSD in the z31). The general idea is the same, though. :twisted:

I thought about giving up and selling the LSD and finding another one that is 29 spline...... but I've put so much work into this thing so far and it has turned into a "challenge" that I can't deny.

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Posts: 1644
Go Justin Go! Seems like you have found a much more viable (and cheaper) solution that the others over at Z31P. Great job.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 7:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
Well, I'm lost. :? I guess I'm just not familiar enough with the Z31 axels and differentials.

If it all bolts up snug, I can't see why spinning the driveline shouldn't produce SOME sort of motion on the axels. Conversely, if the spline count is different, I can't see why the whole mess would allow you to bolt it all up snug in the first place.

The present combinations sounds like, "everything fits right, but it doesn't move", which I can't picture happening. What's not connecting in the differential?

This is an excellent example of why we have this Forum available here on the website. We try to learn from each other ~ that's why we don't laugh at each others' mistakes.....we're secretly glad they're telling us what not to do.

If you have time (I know you're busy bench pressing LSDs), could you technically describe how it's possible for this whole thing to fit together (even tho the spline count shouldn't let that happen), and still have input result in no output?

And try to keep it simple for those of us with limited cranial capacity? :roll:


Thanks!

Frank

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