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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:24 pm
Posts: 1
Location: Foster, RI
Ok. I picked up a Naturally Aspirated z31 (1986) with a digital gauge cluster. Absolutely love the car and I really want to put some money into it. As far as I know, the car has 230,XXX miles, but is still in excellent condition.....except for some of the electrical bs.

I was missing a door jamb switch and Bitching Betty was driving me nuts, telling me my left door was open. I picked one up from an 86 300zx with a regular analog gauge cluster. I can't tell if it has worked because my brake lights are constantly on, even when i turn the car off and pull the key. Pulled the fuse for the rear lights so it wouldn't chew juice on me. It was pretty hot when I pulled it. (Fusable link issue?) And why am I having trouble with the switch? I've tried jumping it with a paper clip so it'd just leave me alone, nothing has worked.

Also, for some reason, my gauge cluster hasn't turned on, and when I open the passenger door, the lights in the car come on, but not when I open the driver side. I'm going insane here. It's my daily driver and I reaaaaally want to drive her....please, help with any info you can.

Sorry for the wall of text, I just don't know where else to look at this point.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 6:43 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 7:19 pm
Posts: 1301
Location: 5 mi. from Frank
I don't expect I'll be any help at all, but I want to empathize. :cry:

Ol' Lucky 13 had something similar to that: despite a brand new,
850 cold cranking amps battery (much higher than the original,
which I believe was 425), something was causing the battery to
drain over time, but apparently not the stereotypical direct short
to ground :? It ended up being the handbrake.

I hated to have to charge the battery every time I wanted to start
the car, so I had Vinny and his assistant to go over the electrical
system. There was evidence in several places that mice have an
appetite for Japanese cuisine. :shock:

I hope this isn't the case with your car, but I have heard of SEVERAL
other instances where mice thought they were at a sushi bar.

FWIW,............Rick (and Kathy, of course)

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All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2011 7:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 3:55 pm
Posts: 3594
Location: Naugatuck CT
check your power supply. it's located above your right knee if you were sitting in the car. remove the plastic panel and it's right there. i am going to solder my connections. that is suppose to cure most dash issues.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 10:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:47 am
Posts: 140
Location: Preston, CT
Hey, I had problems with my rear lights. A common problem with the Z31 is the seal between the tail light and the Z. Mine leaked and caused some problems. To replace them is not cheap. This issue did not cause them to stay on. JUst something to check out. I agree with Mike on checking the connections from the source. These Z's did have some leaks. :roll:

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Stephen Snyder
89' 300zxt


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:02 am 
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Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 8:17 pm
Posts: 2148
Location: Colchester, Ct
Check the switch on the brake pedal. Often the rubber stopper dries out with age and falls out which causes the switch to stay open and the brake lights to remain on.

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Phil
1981 280zxt - Now in the care my son!
2014 370Z Sports Touring Roadster


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 11:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 3:55 pm
Posts: 3594
Location: Naugatuck CT
yeah my switch just went in the 280 and that will definitely cause the brake lights to stay on.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694


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