Because my old oil pump was so worn I went ahead and replaced it with a new L-series turbo model from Black Dragon Auto. The one sold by MSA and the Nissan dealer were too pricey for me, the Black Dragon model was only $69.

The model Black Dragon sent me is an ITM brand 057-1057. It’s nicely machined aluminum and appears physically identical to the Nissan pump. I opened the case up and it does have the 40mm long rotor, so this is the high volume turbo model. When I started my engine it idled at 20psi and goes up to 40psi at 2000rpm, and 60psi at 3000 and up…creating constant high pressure. This is different from the older pumps I’ve had which only added 10psi per 1000rpm.

ITM interestingly lists two other models for the 280ZX turbo manual trans and turbo auto trans engines but I can’t find those pumps for sale online. Their website lists the 057-1057 for the cars below, I suspect this supercedes those older L-series models.



1990 Nissan 240SX
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• SOHC
• KA24E Desig.

1990 Nissan D21
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• SOHC
• KA24E Desig.

1994-1990 Nissan Frontier
• 2.4L L4 2389cc

1998 Nissan Frontier
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• Base
• Sold in United States

2003-2002 Nissan Frontier
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• SE
• Sold in United States

1999 Nissan Frontier
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• Sold in United States

1998 Nissan Frontier
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• XE
• Sold in United States

2004-1999 Nissan Pickup
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• SOHC
• KA24E Desig.

1997-1995 Nissan Xterra
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• SE
• Sold in United States

2003-2000 Nissan Xterra
• 2.4L L4 2389cc
• XE
• Sold in United States

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

FWIW, my rebuild uses the ITM turbo spec pump as well. Those pressure numbers seem to coincide with what I get. I don't know what part number I got though. It came with an engine rebuild kit and all the boxes are long gone.

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-Dave
76Z Turbo'd
72 In Progress---DONE!

Bryan, is there any way to learn the gpm VOLUME of these pumps? Does anyone list that in their propaganda?


Frank

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1970 240Z

The pressure you get - is determined by the oil pressure relief springs used in the oil pump. So you can adjust the output pressure by changing to stronger or weaker springs. Or you can add shims on the nut - so they are not screwed in and compressed as far.

The springs can weaken with use and age.. so the pressure is adjustible via external shims.

Bearings that float on a thin film of oil - require a certain amount of oil pressure to supply them with enough oil to keep the bearing surfaces lubricated and out of contact with each other. Oil is not easily compressible, so once the bearings start spinning they distribute the oil film between themselves. Point being it is not oil pressure in the lubrication system that keeps the bearing surfaces apart - all that is required is that enough oil be delivered to flood the bearing surfaces.

It is usually the main bearings that set the standard for both volume and pressure in a closed system.

The stock small block chevy V8's normally ran about 40 psi to 60 psi {if memory serves me right}; where our L series in-line sixes are fine with 40 psi to 45 psi at 3000 RPM. Indeed at idle the L Series is happy with 10 psi.

The reason is that the V8's use 5 main bearing for say 283, 327, 350 cid engines, and our L Series engines use 7 main bearings for about 149 cid. But it's not just the number of bearings supporting the loads - it is also the size, or total surface area of the bearings. Years ago a friend with both engines in his shop - figured that the L Series engines had about 3 times the total bearing surface area as the 350 V8 he had in his shop.

Nothing wrong with supplying a higher volume of oil through the system. I doubt you'd hurt anything running pressures 50% higher pressures either {45 vs 65 psi}.... With maybe a couple exceptions.

Too high an oil pressure is believed by some to cause the oil galley that lubricates the cam in the earlier engines - to come apart. Also it is possible to blow out friction fit plugs in the lubrication system - which is why they are replaced with threaded fasteners in race engines. Oh yes - then there may be a problem with what oil filters you are using. I don't think any of these are major concerns at 60 - 65 psi in the L Series engines - but although small - they are risks.

Years ago - Ron Johnson at Nissan said that the turbo pump put out about 10% greater volume to circulate the greater volume of oil - required in the turbo oil coolers. Seemed to make sense at the time. He also said that since pressure was regulated - the only difference between the "turbo" and "N/A" pumps was the volume each put out at a fixed RPM. Nor could he ever find any technical difference between the two pumps listed for the L28 Turbo engines.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Good info. Thanks.

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-Dave
76Z Turbo'd
72 In Progress---DONE!

Exactly..... I have about 5 shims, (washers,) in my 85 Nissan pick up, (I use as test project,) After installing rod bearings, I still would have a little knock on start up. So even though it jumps to 90psi when cold, it now runs an average of 45psi when driving. It used to be about 5psi. The 240 has 2 shims, and improved it by 10 pis. So you can increase your oil pressure in about 10 minutes. Can't do that if the oil pump is in the oil pan, go Datsun. Another thing, I notice the most cars from Japan use threaded in oil plugs from the get go. (or at least now a days)

Same thing goes here. After installing the rod bearing, I have a problem starting my car. I think I have to go to an auto repair shop.

Nelshaun, what kind of problem do you have while starting now?

A comment on Carl's earlier post "the only difference between the "turbo" and "N/A" pumps was the volume each put out at a fixed RPM. Nor could he ever find any technical difference between the two pumps listed for the L28 Turbo engines."

I wondering if the auto and manual turbo oil pumps are different since, I believe, only the auto turbo had the oil cooler and need to circulate the oil at higher pressures due to the extra "plumbing".

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Phil
1981 280zxt - Now in the care my son!
2014 370Z Sports Touring Roadster

I have taken apart both a manual and automatic transmission oil pump from a '82 280ZX turbo...and both looked identical with the higher volume 40mm stators.

BUT...Nissan lists two different turbo oil pumps in the factory microfiche, 15010-S8000 and 15010-V0300. Interestingly the manual version retails for $50 more than the auto trans version. Maybe there is a pressure difference between the two because of difference relief springs? The 29 year old mystery continues....

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

Phil...the big reason for increasing oil pressure on the turbo models was that the shaft bearing in the turbocharger itself is exposed to boost pressure. Thus, at boost, external pressure could exceed oil pressure and keep oil from flowing to the shaft bearing.

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71 on a rotisserie, two more in pieces in my shed...and a 69 1600 waiting for me to get to it