I don't.
They were available when I bought mine, but I failed to order one (didn't undrstnd they were separate purchase). When I wanted one later they were out, and I never followed up on it.

Frank

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1970 240Z

well i am almost done with the harness. just need to hook up power to it. i think i will work on my lunch break and get that done. i managed to fix my bent headlight bucket and trim ring. i plan to replace both of them with nicer ones once my new headlights arrive. so i will see on lunch break if for the first time since i have owned my Z if i have fully functioning headlights.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

headlights still don't work. i know that they go on whenever they feel like it. can that be the switch? sometimes i would have my passenger headlight sometimes not. parking lights work. all fuses are fine.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Could be the switch itself, or the old wiring that wasn't replaced. 90% of your electrical problems (somewhat arbitrary number) will be caused by corroded contacts at connections, switches and grounds.

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-Chris

yeah i was thinking the switch or that old wiring. so i think i will look into getting a switch from John T and see what happens. if still having problems i will replace all the wiring.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

I agree with Phrog. The problem *probably* rests in your switch or 'primary' circuit. By that I mean, now that you've got the MSA upgrade, the circuit breakers ("Secondary circuit") are doing all the work. All the switch ("Primary Circuit") does is activate the circuit breakers. Each circuit breaker should contain a BIG fuse, which of course should be examined.

Also pleaZe check each internal fuseblock fuse, including the 20A Common. Make sure you didn't accidentally ground out the circuit and fry one during installation.

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1970 240Z

i checked all my fuses both in the engine and inside the car. all good. after i replaced the switch back to my original one i was leaving the condo and told the wife to let me follow her since i only had fog light but wouldn't you know when i turned them on the passenger one went on. and that's how they work you never know when they will go on. but they never turn off during operation. if they go on they stay on.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Are you checking your fuses visually or with a test light? Big difference there.

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-Chris

only visually at the moment. no test light. my friend has one. so once my new headlights arrive i will go through the whole system.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Right again, Phrog. I've been tricked before too. A cheap test light is the way to go (but don't test them IN the circuit, or you'll simply jump B+ to Ground).

AND ~ you're telling us the driver's side doesn't light? And that's the bucket you ran over? Are you real confident you have a ground left on that side?

If you do, remember the MSA loom connection for the driver's side lamp is btwn the horns ahead of the radiator. Check & make sure that's sound.

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1970 240Z

i have the black dragon upgraded harness. i am not totally sure of the grounds i used for the headlights. i used the thin metal i believe used to hold the inner wheel wells. and the bucket is fine now. that headlight hasn't worked in a long time. i think i lost it over the winter. this is why i think it is the switch.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

and what is the proper way of testing the fuses? i am not an electrical pro but know my way around a wire stripper and solder. but what do you mean "IN" circuit?

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

I mean pull them out of the fuse block and test them with a battery powered measuring device, such as a MultiMeter. It's the only good way to make sure they are letting current thru them.

The old glass fuses usually turn murky brown when they fail, and you can sometimes see the open filament inside them. But not always. I've been fooled many times. The blade or bayonet fuses are harder for me to view, so I just use a cheap ($15) multimeter. No guesswork then.

If you have power to one light but not to both, I wouldn't suspect the switch. I would look for A) an open connection btwn the lamps, B) a bad ground, or C) a bad lamp.

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1970 240Z

so my headlights randomly turned on the other day. both work high beam and low beam. for how long i don't know

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Then your problem is generally referred to as an "occasional open", which is the hardest electrical Gremlin to trace.

It means that the entire system works as advertiZed ~ SOMETIMES. "Something" causes it to not work occasionally.

If you can get all the lights to work, walk yrslf thru the electrical loom, shaking stuff as you go. When the lights go out, you've located the GENERAL area of the problem.

Look for loose connections, poor grounds, frayed wires (unlikely in this situation), or sparks in the dark! Do all this with the engine off, so you can hear anything clicking or sparking as you wiggle wires.

Pay special attention to the fuses inside the relays (good ground, solid seating), the primary circuit triggering the relays, and all other fuses.

If you have a cheap multimeter, you can test each connection from hot to ground to see where the power stops flowing, but that's a laborious pain.

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1970 240Z