no i've been at work all day. if the weather is ok tomorrow morning i will wire it up tomorrow. only problem is i gotta take out the headlights to get the connector out.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

IMO go MSA, everything I get from them fits right, I hear stories about BD stuff, don't fit right, lesser quality, ect. I just got my headlight and parking light harness from MSA, and also the altenator upgrade as well. Now just to find the time.

The BD harness fits fine without any modifications, it just takes a little more thought process and effort to get it hooked up. Unfortunately, the MSA harness only plugs in directly to 70-73 models, so its really the only choice besides creating your own. For the price, its worth it not to try that.

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-Chris

Ahhhh, that's why I got the 240.

Mine (MSA) popped right in without too much trouble. All that was necessary was to mount the two headlamp relay fuses to the passenger side fender liner securely. The front headlamp loom was a little confusing at first, but Phrog's scientific diagram displayed exactly how it works out. MSA's diagram described the same thing, but Chris' was simpler.

Frank

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1970 240Z

Just wanted to chime in and say that I really enjoyed the 'aha' moment as I havent done this upgrade yet.

Thanks to the back and forth in this thread I wont even need to look at the instructions!

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HLS3013940

haha! Hi Joe! Really happy to 'hear' you on here.

Regardless which harness you buy, pleaZe read and re-read the instructions. Things get confusing on two areas and knowing what you expect can quickly identify things which go awry.

Your original little '71 should certainly benefit from this upgrade. It's essential for anyone who intends to install brighter headlamps in a Series-1 Z car (along with a modern MSA fusebox), but even old "stock" Zs should get this upgrade, for safety reaZons. Old wiring deteriorates and causes high resistances, which can cause electrical fires. (Ask me how I know ).

Frank

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1970 240Z

And IMHO, BD seems quite expensive as well. I got their catalogue a
couple of years ago and wondered, "Is this what I have got to pay
nowadays to get stuff for our Z's?" Thankfully after having been re-
discovered," we were able to learn that there are other resources which
don't leave the bank account with a negative balance; or which don't
intrude as much on our ability to pay the mortgage or to have a little
something to eat now and then.

All Z Best,............................Kathy & Rick

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All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

Frank, do the wiring harness and the fuse box LOOK the same as the
OEM? You know how nutsy I get about keeping things ORIGINAL, even
if the "original" is only original in APPEARANCE. Meaning that even if
there IZ an upgrade, it either doesn't show up when examining the car;
or doesn't show up AT ALL (such as having to disassemble the engine,
transmission, or differential to see what's inside there).

All Z Best,................................Kathy & Rick

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All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

Hi Rick ~ I've been trying to get up with you lately. You're a quick mover.

The changes are obvious under the hood. The upgrade comes in two or three harnesses which have marking tags, but the most obvious difference are the additions of two relay fuses on the inner fender skirt.

The complete upgrade includes a stronger alternator, new fusebox, brighter headlamps and two relays to handle all the new power. The fusebox doesn't show beneath the ashtray, but there's no way to miss the two small relays mounted on the inner fender. They're about the siZe of a little book of stick matches, and sit side by side.

The relays handle all the new power to the headlamps, so it doesn't have to run thru the light switch on the steering stalk (and melt it). That essentially "retires" the light switch, so all it does now is trigger the relays on/off. A very good idea.

Frank

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1970 240Z

me too Rick. i am trying to get in touch with you too.

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

Rick and all,
Here are some detail shots of the MSA fuse box for the early cars (long pigtail) along side of my original fuse box.

The MSA box is wider than the original by 1" - 3 3/4" vs. 4 3/4". The depth of the box is the same. The length of the pigtail is the same on both. Obviously, the MSA box will not accomodate the original cover. The fuse placements and amperages are identical. Finally, the wiring colors are identical but all of the connectors are not. The two plastic plugs are a match. The two heavy guage white wires have different connectors - a female blade on the original, a female round plug on the MSA.

I am doing the full upgrade as mentioned by Frank, to include the MSA plug that replaces the voltage regulator. I don't have the upgrade harnesses yet for the headlights and the cowl lights but expect to order them soon.

Hope this helps with some of your questions.

Jim

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Jim Arnett
Richardson, Texas
HLS30-15320 12/1970 (original owner)
ZCON 2015 Gold Cup - Street Modified class

still trying to find time to tackle this issue. will keep you all posted. i will definitely have this sorted out by meeting number 1!

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Mike Tubiak
1978 Datsun 280Z - HLS30-438694

PS ~ If you buy the MSA fusebox, I recommend ordering the plastic cover which fits it. It's sold separately and they don't tell you to order it when you get the fusebox.

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1970 240Z

Hi Frank,
I just checked the MSA site, could not find the cover you mentioned. Do you have a P/N?
Thanks,
Jim

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Jim Arnett
Richardson, Texas
HLS30-15320 12/1970 (original owner)
ZCON 2015 Gold Cup - Street Modified class