Its called electrolytic rust removal.

This is a ridiculously simple and cost effective process, especially if you don't have the means or funds to acid dip your car (Well, I suppose if you had a swimming pool you could dunk a whole Z frame ). I just used it on a few suspension components, namely A Arms, mustache bar, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9Cd-g23kw

This is how to do it, on a much smaller scale. I used a large rubbermaid container, a 12V car battery charger at 2 amp current, and a large piece of rebar that I bent into a coil that snaked around the perimeter of the rubbermaid container. I didn't bother with the cola at the end, because it would take a lot of cola to submerge 2 rear LCAs, and I don't believe in wasting drinks, lol.

Note; Do NOT EVER, during this process of rust removal, allow the positive end alligator clip (assuming you use a battery charger like me) come into contact with or submerge into the solution while you're running a current through it. If you do, you can kiss that thing goodbye as it will corrode at an accelerated rate and be rendered useless. Always clip it to a portion of the rebar that is above the water's surface. Also don't let the sacrificial metal (rebar) to contact the part you're cleaning.



In this photo the rebar is hanging less than in inch from the LCA. This process also works best on a "line of sight" principal, so if you can bend your rebar around the edges of the tank like a coil, it will clean the rust much more efficiently.

I was very pleased with my results in this "mad science" experiment.

I'd elaborate more, but I need to get food, I'm hungry. I'll try to add more info later, just post any questions you have.[/url]

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-Chris

A note:

Although I titled this thread rust repair, its obviously not going to bring the metal back if its already been rusted. All this does is STOP the rust from spreading and turns it into black oxide. From there on you can clean the metal up and rust bullet/POR-15 it so the rust never comes back. I used Krylon rust tough and clear coat rattlecans for my suspension components because I did not want to drop the money for a few cans of POR-15 (yet). So far it hasn't failed.

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-Chris

Dragging up an old post to chime in: If you do have larger/heaver/numerous parts to work on, head down to your local Tractor Supply or equivalent. Rubbermaid makes stock tanks for feeding/watering livestock in sizes from 50-300 gallons and they are sturdy as hell. Also have drain fitting at the bottom to help you easily empty out the contents. A mechanic buddy of mine used two of the larger tanks side by side to clean out parts, just filled the second with a white vinegar dilution IIRC.

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"We hang the petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office." -Aesop