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 Post subject: anti-freeze leak
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:22 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 129
Location: Bridgeport,CT
well i was at work and drove home when i got home i noticed that there was a stream of liquid coming form the side of the car so i went and got a light and it was green i looked under and it was dripping a med puddle about the size of a laptop screen i dont know where its coming form i also reached under the car to touch some of the hoses that i was able to see and apperently one of clips that hold it in place was still attached to the hose but wasnt connected to any thing other than that i dont know much and ideas ohh and from what i can tell there is still anti-freeze in the car

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14781
Location: CT
Hi Allan ~

Glad to hear there is still some antifreeze in your engine; it would overheat and seize without it.

This problem is the same with any car ~ you have a small leak "somewhere" and you have to find it and fix it. Where ever the leak is, the fluid level in the engine and radiator will drop to exactly that level, then stop leaking (of course). If the leak is on an upper radiator hose (for example), you will lose maybe a quart of antifreeze as the car sits parked, cold. When you start the car you heat and pressurize the system and make the leak worse, so you lose more fluid running than you do with the engine off.

If the leak is from somewhere very low on the engine (a lower radiator hose, for example) you could lose ALL the antifreeze in your cooling system very quickly. Then, if you ran the engine, you would destroy it because it has no way to cool itself.

If you can locate the source of the leak, repair it. It might be simple (just a loose clamp) or complex (a ruptured heater hose, requiring replacement). Several companies make "STOP-LEAK" additives which you can pour into your radiator. This stuff finds small leaks and seals them from inside. I dislike using them because they also gum up water pumps and small hoses, but in an emergency when you can't stop using the car to fix the leak, using a can or two of that stuff usually stops the leak until you can repair the original problem. If you use stop leak, I suggest you locate the source of the leak FIRST, so you know what to repair when you can take the car to the shop. (Be sure to fill the system back to the top when searching for the leak; once the fluid level falls to the level of the leak, it will stop leaking and be hard to locate).

If you use a can or two of stop leak and the leak continues, park the car until you can fix the problem. There's no sense ruining a good engine by driving it without coolant.

In any event, after you've made the leak stop, you must carefully add enough antifreeze back into the cooling system to bring it back to specs.
Read your owner's manual to understand that procedure.

Best of luck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 11:34 am
Posts: 124
Location: Trumbull, CT
"apperently one of clips that hold it in place was still attached to the hose but wasnt connected to any thing other than that"

Hmm.

Temp gauge reading normal :?:
Does it leak while idling at normal temps :?:

Allen you say a hose not connected? How big of a hose? Could it be the hose to the overflow.

Post a pict if possible.

Also my 280zx's would puke out a small amount of coolant after shut down, with the car parked facing down on a medium grade. Too much coolant in the overflow tank will do this.

Pat


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 129
Location: Bridgeport,CT
well it was a big hose there was no anti-freeze on it and as for the leak it seem to be on the bottom of the engine the temp seemed normal ill try to get pics

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:18 am
Posts: 131
Its a long shot..
check your welsch plugs on the side of the block.
there's also a sneeky one behind the flywheel which you cant see.
At best try to isolate which area the water comes from. eg.
-engine
-hoses
-overflow....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
First determine exactly where it's leaking, in a way, front, rear, left, right. Fill it up and let it idle, and watch the drip, (I have a pressure tester, so no need to run the car.) If not a hose leak, then could be a waterpump, which would leak right behind the crank pully. If you want to wait till summer, then you'll have a coolant leak. :P


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 Post subject: UPDATE
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 129
Location: Bridgeport,CT
WELL....... i got the leak fixed remember when i told all of you when the alternator was bad and then i got it fixed well ..... apparently he didnt put back a clamp which caused the car to leak about 2weeks later so now i spent 250 getting a clamped replaced but i got my 250 back from the mech who put my alternator in :twisted:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14781
Location: CT
Ahhhhh....! Justice! :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 129
Location: Bridgeport,CT
he lucky that my dad wasnt there

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 4:29 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Good to hear. I guess another thing to remember,.......if something goes wrong shortly after a repair, it just might have something to do with the repair. Seen this way to many times.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 1:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:55 am
Posts: 129
Location: Bridgeport,CT
i was going to give him the benefit of the doubt but i remember the mech saying that he removed the radiator to get better access to the alt. that was what tipped me off

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