I searched the archives and couldn't find any posts related to adjusting the clutch pedal on a 1973 240 but if I missed one that explains this, please let me know. Saw a few on later models or cars that had been swapped with other transmissions or modified but nothing for a stock 240. I have a stock 1973 240 and plan to keep it that way. I have not replaced the clutch itself, that was done many years ago and was working just fine before I started messing with things. I decided to upgrade my original slave and master for no other reason other than they were all corroded and original. After I replaced everything, the car ran fine until one day I went to get in it and there was zero clutch pressure. Figuring it was air in the system I bled the system a few times and still couldn't get it to work. I did notice that the fluid was coming out all dirty which was odd given everything was brand new. Figuring it was a bad master and I was pretty frustrated at this point I decided to replace the whole system. New Slave, Master, soft line to slave and a nice new stainless hard line. I paid the extra $ and got one of the nice new masters from Nissan and confirmed that the push rod matched my original unit. Bench bled it and installed everything. So here's my issue. My FSM says that the pedal height should be 8.9" off the floor and then to adjust the pedal stopper so that the pedal is 8.8" off the floor. Problem is I can't get that by adjusting the master push rod, it's not long enough. I can just about get 8.5" and that is pushing it. Am I missing something here? Any help would be appreciated. I want to make sure I set this up right and dialed in the first time so I don't have to deal with this again anytime soon.

Many thanks,
Scott

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1973 240Z
North Kingstown, RI

Hi Scott,

I checked my Haynes manual and here are the dimensions that should be adhered to for proper clutch operation.
PEDAL:
Free pedal travel: 0.39 to 0.59 inches
Total Pedal adjustment: 8.0 +/- 0.197 inches

SLAVE:
Remove the return spring, loosen the locking nut and adjust the slave push rod until there is no play, then back off adjusting nut 1-1/2 turns and secure locking nut. Re-install the spring. This should give you the proper clearance between the release bearing and the pressure plate fingers.

One other thing. I had an issue with a replacement master some time ago because the rod length was different than the original one. Were you able to check the dimensions of the old versus the new? I think I may have had to swap pushrods, but that was a LONG time ago.

I'm not sure why you should be getting black fluid coming out of the system if all parts are new and flushed with clean fluid.

I'm not sure if any of this helps.

Good luck!

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John Kish
1971 240Z - original owner

Thanks John! I will get after it tonight with those measurements. At 8.0" the clutch pedal is more inline with the brake pedal which makes more sense. My only hunch with the fluid being black was the master was bad to begin with and the seals inside were old and causing the fluid to darken eventually failing. I'm not sure what else it could be. I did check my rod length against the original and it was the same. I have heard on the 70-72's that the master had a longer rod than the replacements and people had to do what it sounds like you had to do which was swapping out the rods to get the needed throw.

Thanks again, really appreciate the help on this one. Can't wait to get the old girl out on the road.

All the best,
Scott

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1973 240Z
North Kingstown, RI

Great! Let's hope it works for you. Keep us posted on your progress.

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John Kish
1971 240Z - original owner

Unfortunately, no luck. I adjusted the pedal and free play, bled the system multiple times and nothing. The slave is working and pushing on the clutch fork but the car will not go into gear. I'm wondering if there is a bigger problem with the clutch than this. Might have to get it to someone to have it sorted. I am not really set up to drop the transmission and replace the clutch in my garage and really want to be driving the car and not having it laid up like this.

Apricate all the help Johnny!!!

Scott

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1973 240Z
North Kingstown, RI

The only effective adjustment I ever got from my 1970 car was at the clutch slave. It took me a day (working alone) to find the “sweet spot” on the slave rod which gave me the correct pedal placement and clutch action. I must have taken the car off the jackstands, test driven it, then lifted it back up for more adjustment about a dozen times. A trained mechanic with a helper might have got it right hours sooner than I did. When I finally found the exact setting I PAINTED the slave activating rod with nail polish to give me a more exact starting point should I ever have to adjust it again.

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1970 240Z

And for my car it was more important to me to get the brake pedal more or less even with the accelerator pedal so I could toe-and-heel while shifting (which is totally unnecessary on the Z). I preferred the clutch to remain a tad higher than the other two action pedals so it didn’t get confused or interfere with the brake. The clutch is strictly a left-foot function anyway, so the relationship btwn it and the dead pedal foot rest is far more important than placement with the brake/gas.

Settings quoted in the FSM are intended to set the car so that the majority of the public can operate it. If you’re the only guy who will be driving it, the adjustments which fit YOU best are far more important.

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1970 240Z

Scott,

Are you sure you have the right slave cylinder on the car? The slave cylinder rod length can vary in these early Z cars. Has the release bearing ever been changed? I heard they can be different also which because of their dimensions can change the amount of pushing stroke make on the pressure plate fingers.

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John Kish
1971 240Z - original owner

I have a good idea on this.....the rod on the master cylinder may be to short if it's after market, it happen to me and is still the way I fixed it when I was stuck in NY. EXTEND the rod to the master. I put a sleeve at the end and then screwed the connecter to the pedal to it. The sleeve is hexagon in shape and threaded inside and has to be metric threads. Fastenal might have it or similar stores.