great.. sounds like your on track.. just might need a little more adjustment on the linkages.. Its amazing how badly they can behave if the linkages r out...

This might be a silly question:
are you using soft mounts where the webber meets the manifold.???
if the mounts r solid then the vibrations from your engine will foam the fuel up..
I use the redline mounts. you have to gap them with feeler gauge to make sure there all the same

if your still using your old jet set-up and its still running off.. try making your fuel and air jets about 60 apart.. eg.
130 fuel
190 air

140 fuel
200 air

if you've got spare jets lying around.. i know these things a very expensive

He's rich

True about the flexible mounts, tho. Webers never run well if they're solid-mounted. I wonder if it's the same for down-draughts? Probably not.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGnOnkuZWDA


The linkage is still way off...

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Also Known As Clayton Pace

Glad to hear you're making progress...

sounds all too familiar...
sounds like you've got the initial setting on the carbs ok.. just those bloody linkages...
Have you got return springs on each carby?? i noticed watching ya video that it doesnt seem to return back to idle..???

my carbs sounded like shite then after a few tweeks of the linkages it was perfect.. fine line.....

Just remember each carby has to operate at the same time so....
each linkage should be the same length and start operating at the same time.....

Do all your carby tuning with all linkages disconnected...
eg, mixture, air speed...

Mixture screw should be 1 half to 1 full turn out...any more or any less means you've got the fuel / air mixture wrong.. This is according to webber themselves....
if you need more than 1 turn out you need to up your fuel jet..

you should be able to get a satisfactory idle without any liunkages connected..

Think of how much money Ferarri and Lambourgini spend on linkages for there cars

These carb's are about to get thrown out of the garage with all the force my arms has....

just when I get them somewhat running...they go back to sour.

Finally got the car to drive around the block, the progression cuircut is missing, so I tweeked here and there, then later went completely bad....

so started back from the begining...and trying to set up the idle again...

it does look like I will need a few different sizes of jets, so next paycheck...I'll get some.

and it sounds like the exhaust mani/intake mani gasket is going...so I got another one coming in 2 days...so I'll take them off...and go thru them one more time...

I got 8 days to get the car running so I can drive it to the DMV to get the VIN checked and then I can register it... and hopefully actually drive it this summer....

IF not...it's going up for sale.

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Also Known As Clayton Pace

Air,
Don’t give up…. It does take time to get them adjusted correctly, and the linkage they give you in the kit isn’t the best, but take your time and you will get there. If you look at some of the Mikuni setups you can see it’s a beefier setup. I can let you borrow my synchronizer tool if you would like, but you will have to use shorter stacks as you would hit the brake master with the stacks you have now. Found out that Inglese isn’t in Wallingford,CT any more, so you can’t buy Weber parts… nor pick his brain.. They were bought up my Comp performance.

If you are in there to replace the intake-exhaust manifold gasket check to make sure the flange thickness is the same or close to the same. I know I had to mill stepped washers so both would get the same compression on the gasket.

Well..I got everything somewhat set... and drove it around the block today...

it died...well...ran really poor.... in the rain.

So while getting drenched to the bone, I was turning screws, adjusting throttle levers, popping springs, ran to get a few gallons of gas from the house...and kept trying for a while....to the point to where I've had enough.


I'll need to get my neighbors tomorrow to help me push it back up the small hill to get it to the garage, I just hope some punk doesn't want the stereo I just installed in it... then I'll swap out the intake gasket, and reset the timing to see if that fixes the problem, and might look into trying to re-curve the dizzy. It was idling good, but once it revved up to 15-2000 RPM's, it would fall off line...and I remembered that I adjusted the timing from 25 degree's to 12ish...@ 800 rpm's. And there is no vacuum advance...so that might be the main culprit.

If the car is not running by next Tuesday to where I can drive it to the DMV to register it...then it's going up for sale.

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Also Known As Clayton Pace

Took the carbs and header off today...and the gasket was blown. I hope this is the problem. So while I had them off, I gasket matched the cannon intake to the head, opened them up from 33mm to 35mm..... And it looks like the flange sizes are different, so I might have to grind down the thick washers and spend some time doing it.

2 days left on the temp plates

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Also Known As Clayton Pace

Blown gasket!?! How the heck...? Hang in there man!

Well, that certainly sounds as if it could be your foremost problem! If it compromiZed the intake of any one of the Webers, you wouldn't be able to tune it enough to overcome that. (Maybe it was the full-throttle redline run with no load on which did it?)

We will expect to hear that you slapped them back on and it immediately ran almost perfectly.

Frank

Air,
I am not surprised to hear of a blown gasket. In the case of the Nissan engine like many non-cross flow inline engine the intake and exhaust manifolds have to be very close to the same thickness…. I would have to say within .015”-.4mm or better, but depends on the gasket thickness and material.
You might want to check that the lower studs didn’t get bent from trying to tighten an irregular surface and also check the header flange…. Some times they get a little to happy with the grinder around the port area and you will end up with a low spot. On a good note I did use that same header on a car and it did work very well. Best of luck!

Airjockie et al -

Side drafts aren't that finicky, if they are it means something else is wrong beyond basic tuning.

I haven't read through all the posts so sorry if I am repeating advice. But start with checking fuel pressure and float level, without those being right nothing else matters.

Airjockie - did you blow the head gasket or the intake gasket? If you had a intake gasket leak this would affect idle (lots of engine vacuum) but not mid/top end.

Murf

Airjockie - there are also club members with trailers : ) to help with VIN checks. Also, last I knew you can get unlimited amounts of 1 day DMV temp regs if you are willing to pay for them. You apply for them 1 at a time.

So hang in there and it will work out in the end...

It was the intake/exhaust manifold gasket, I guess I didn't have the bottom row all the way tighned down, or the flange size was different...plus, it's like the 3rd time I used that gasket...it still looked good to use, so I used it...but when I removed it, there has a ton of exhaust leaks.

And I have a trailer, but it's up in MA...

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Also Known As Clayton Pace