Hey theZman I just wanted to ask if the offer of your efi, manifold and such is still on? I am trying to make a plan for my car and wanted to know if your swap is going as planned ie that you won't be using your efi anymore? if for any reason your plans have changed won't be a problem but if it's still the as discussed earlier, I'll be happy to have those parts (paying postage of course). just keep me informed and save me from the temptation to throw in triple webers..

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

a little update on my car's progress. the floors are in, not finished but looking good. I feel great about the fact that I am in the lucky position to have improved and extended the life of another Z on this planet. The worst problem in my car is now taken care of and I feel good about that. I do hope Mike is also happy to see that his beauty got a good home where she keeps getting attention and care here are some pics and more at http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/2011/02/floors.html

the rear bumper is off for rechroming and also hubcaps will be chromed, then painted with rear light panels. the chrome frame in the rear panel will be chromed too.

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

Wowww ~ you're doing a really nice job on that car! You bought a very good platform to begin with, which would have lasted you many years into the future. But now, with the work you're doing on her, she might outlive you! You got kids who can inherit this car?

There's no better way to 'bond' with your Z than to pull it apart and fix everything you can find.

When you begin to put it back together, pay close attention to replacing the tail lights and hatch rubber properly. Once the original factory seal is broken there, exhaust fumes have an insidious way of sneaking into the cabin. Talk to us when you reach that part of your assembly, and we'll share some of our own tricks to overcome that problem.

Frank

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1970 240Z

thanks Frank for your kind words. Unfortunately I don't have kids as yet to inherit this car but I'm working on it..

I did think about the fumes as soon as I noticed the rear light seal is gone stone hard. Will definitely need replacing. hope to get to that part soon as I haven't driven her since november and I just want to be back on the road..

I'm trying to find color for the light panels but it ain't easy as I can't get any Ditzler paint here and that's what Wick Humble's book refers to and also I don't have anything in the car with the original color well preserved so I have to use faded paint and photographs as my guide.. if anyone has used other paint suppliers such as glasurit or dupont to get close match to the original, please post your secret formula!

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

Do you already have a paint code for that panel?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-197 ... _927wt_941

(I'm considering moving these technical restoration entries from your NEW MEMBER INTRO to RESTORATION forum, so we can all benefit from them).

Frank

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1970 240Z

That's probably a good idea Frank. I've posted the restoration things here as it seemed like the place where it was the easiest keep 'em on the same post. but if you like to move them that's great!
I have quite a few paint chips but don't think any of them has any color codes for detail parts like the light panels. only body colors I think.

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

I wonder whether Carl might either have some of that information, or be
able to refer us to someone who does? He really seems to be the "go-to
guy" on things like this. As much info as the Z Home website has, there
is so much more that could be added that maybe Carl just hasn't gotten
around to it yet.

Just thinking out loud,....................~Rick~

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All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

Hi Rick:
Took some looking - but found the following from Jim Hildred.

= = = = =
Hi,

This posting applies to restorers of 240's (Hey Carl you out there?)

For those of you interested in restoring the taillight surrounds and factory
wheel covers - read on. This information is the result of many setbacks. I
ended up going to my local dealer (I am putting their children through school)
and getting them to order me a wheel cover and surround no charge. Then, many
autobody shops later, someone agreed to match the paint and paint them when he
had time. Got them back yesterday and here is the scoop..

1. Use aircraft aluminum paint stripper to strip the original paint. This
is available in spray cans from body shop suppliers. No need to worry
about the stainless steel trim rings and just remove the "D" from the cover.

2. Mask the chrome on the wheel covers and use a Scotchbright pad to
roughen the chrome portion that you want to paint. Mask s/steel surrounds.

3.Mix up the following Sikkens paint codes (makes 1/2 liter formula) Autobase.
191.9 grams code 744
311.8 grams code 666
393.3 grams code 777
455.7 grams code 333C
484.5 grams code 333CC
486.4 grams code 568

4. Apply 2 coats epoxy primer at 35-40lbs pressure and bake 15-20 minutes.

5. Apply 2-3 coats Autobase (drying between coats).

6. Apply 2 coats matte clear.

The result is 95%+ the stock colour (sorry Canadian eh).

Hope this helps those of you who can no longer find the Ditzler Duracryl
paint codes mentioned in Wick Humble's restoration guide.

Cheers,


Jim Hildred
IZCC #460
'71 240
= = = = = = =

FWIW,
Carl B.

beautiful! thanks Carl I'm sure this will help as sikkens is big in europe and although my painter doesn't use it I can get sikkens from somewhere else. I wonder if instead matte clear suede additive could be used for more close match with original? although probably matt clear gives better protection against dirt, grease, wax etc

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

Thanks, Carl, you didn't let me down.
You came through for me AND FOR US!
YOU DA MAN!!!!!!!!!!

All Z Best,........................Kathy & Rick

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All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

The car is back! went to pick her up a little over week ago but been too busy to report.. the floors are solid and good. the car felt clearly more stiff on the way back than it used to before the repair. nice.

she was in the workshop since november, and now has a mysterious auto-choke problem. When I first started the car the auto-choke (in holley 4-barrel) would work as in keeping the idle speed higher when the engine was cold. Normally though after some 30 seconds stepping on the accelerator and releasing it would result in idle being lowered, gradually so until the engine would be in its normal operating temp. Now, however the idle wouldn't go back to normal at all. I kept idling for some 10 minutes but it wouldn't go down. I thought maybe there's some dust from being in the shop for such a long time and got going thinking it would return to normal when driving. so i drove home - 3,5 hours but no; the idle would not go down.

So I checked all the connections cleaned them but to no avail. Then I notice I can manually undo the choke at the carb but a quick pressing on the accelerator would jam the choke all open again. This happens several times so I opened up the auto idle in the carb, connected the wires and saw that the spring that operates the choke does work (when it heats up it closes (or opens can't remember) to operate the choke. Put it back and now the choke doesn't work at all. I reopen, and try different spring tensions but nothing happens. the choke won't work at all.

If anyone is familiar with holley auto-choke please let me know. Anyway it's better that it doesn't work because when it does and jams I have to hold the car with brakes when driving in the town, otherwise it'll take off like crazy.. not nice.

apart from those I've had some bad luck here and there. bought a set of triple webers with cannon manifold. they weren't properly packed so the manifold was broken into 2 pieces during transport.. also a fuel line connector was broken. a couple of days ago I left home for an hour. the z stayed home parked outside the house. when I got back home there was a piece of concrete (coming from the roof of the house, underneath a roof tile..) on the driveway next to the car. It had flown from the roof and hit the headlamp bezel denting it and chipping the paint. I say flew because the car was not directly underneath the roof, so the piece of concrete has come off the roof at an angle and nicely hit my baby. Man this frustrates me.

here's also a poor picture of the new floor and newly chromed rear bumper.

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

Sorry to hear about the damage to your headlight nacelle, at least you can take it off for the repair.

A good fabrication / metal shop should be able to weld the cannon intake manifold back together. I'm amazed that it was broken during shipping.

FWIW,
Carl B.

the carbs are quite heavy and the manifold on the other hand has a weak spot there having just one structural element between the runners, so it may brake if the set is not properly supported. I have a friend who took the manifold to a specialist friend of his, and it's being taken care of. next I'll need to determine what size jets to use. these are 40 dcoe's. I would have preferred 45s or even 50s but didn't come across any at reasonable price.

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http://kingofapes.blogspot.com/

Nize bumpa! Floors look like original too!

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240zgoldie.blogspot.com

thanks! The manifold is now welded. I haven't seen it yet and don't know when to expect to get the setup back - it's not urgent so my friend will bring it over when he's passing by next time. I'm not too keen on driving 700km to get it back.. not that I don't like driving but have no time for such a trip now.

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