(I have a reindeer antler from up there)
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| Author: | Frank T [ Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:30 am ] |
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| (I have a reindeer antler from up there)
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| Author: | Reverend [ Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:18 am ] |
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Summer night shoot with z. 
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| Author: | Frank T [ Fri Jul 27, 2012 7:40 am ] |
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You and Phil Parent (our Club photographer) have some things in common ~ you both have a good camera, a good eye for angles and light, and a true love and appreciation of your beautiful Z carz. Frank |
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| Author: | Jules [ Fri Jul 27, 2012 10:11 pm ] |
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I want some pics like Tht of my Z!!! |
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| Author: | Reverend [ Fri Sep 21, 2012 3:38 am ] |
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Hiya folks. Been driving a lot this summer, so little time has been left for checking forums I've recieved a 77 5 speed from California and 3:54 R180 is on the way as we speak. Also got brand new Made in Japan Exedy clutch for the tranny.
Yesterday i started to clear out the engine bay and by the end of this month, engine should be out for cleaning, repaint, some minor tuning etc etc. Also my friend has aquired a C-cam for me, i dont know much about it than its better than the stock 240z cam. Also looking for decent priced triples if there is set available... 
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| Author: | Reverend [ Mon Oct 08, 2012 1:54 am ] |
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Engine is out and this is how it happened
http://vimeo.com/50903323# |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Mon Oct 08, 2012 7:14 am ] |
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 WOW! You guys really work well together, and FAST!!! 
While the engine is out, I invite you to climb into that engine bay and remove every flake of rust you can find (there will be some hiding in there which you didn't even know about ~ especially under the battery). And after you have removed all the rust, I invite you to consider repainting the bay with RHINO LINER to prevent having to do it ever again. Rhino Liner is a spray which is sold over here for coating pickup truck beds, so they don't scratch when you throw stuff in them. Comes in colors, but I used black for mine. I sprayed the undercarriage and the engine bay. It's been on for 3 years and many thousands of miles, and I still can't find a flaw anywhere. I recommend it to all my friends who are restoring their Zs. http://www.youtube.com/user/rhinolining ... sults_main |
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| Author: | Reverend [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 12:05 am ] |
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That is the main reason why i took out the engine, battery tray etc. But im planning to paint it to match the body colour, nothing wrong with the black
Now im stuck, trying to remove the flywheel so i can put the engine on jack.. |
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| Author: | Frank T [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 8:03 am ] | ||||
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You could buy an engine stand, but it's quicker and cheaper to custom-build a wooden engine stand. Buy a few 4" x 4" posts, cut them up and lay them horizontally to form a "carriage" high enough to keep the flywheel off the deck. In the end it will look like an old wooden gun carriage for ancient English cannon, but without the wheels. Companies build them all the time to ship engines around on. They can be picked up by forklift trucks and moved around easily. Frank
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| Author: | Reverend [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:09 am ] |
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Yea i have that yellow kind of engine jack, except its red BUT i cannot properly attach the engine to it with flywheel still on place + i've heard that flywheel should be resurfaced when putting a new clutch on place 
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| Author: | Frank T [ Tue Oct 09, 2012 10:41 am ] |
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AHA! You have what we call an engine STAND. An engine or transmission JACK is an hydraulic lifter which raises the engine/transmission up as you pump the handle. I understand now. Most people do resurface the flywheel when they pull the engine, simply because it's the easiest time to do that. But wear is what really counts ~ if your flywheel is OK with little or no wear, it's not mandatory. Throwout bearings and clutch pressure plates should certainly be considered for replacement tho, because they wear out far quicker than flywheel surfaces do. When I rebuilt my 240Z three years ago my throwout bearing looked and sounded fine, so I saved $20 and didn't replace it. Now 5,000 miles later it's making noises and I wish I had simply swapped it out while it was so handy......live and learn! 
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| Author: | Reverend [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 2:19 am ] |
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Oh yea, STAND not JACK  sorry  Flywheel looks okay, a bit dirty but okay. I got the whole package, friction disk, pressure plate and release bearing. Old one is Atsugi, new one is Exedy. Both made in Japan.
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| Author: | Frank T [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:10 am ] |
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Right ~ sounds like fun! Many times, people will rework or replace a flywheel when too many of the side gears are chipped, worn or missing from starter damage, too. Some of our members have experimented with different weight flywheels (both Datsun and aftermarket brands). Lighter flywheels allow engines to "wind up" instantly (less inertia) and sound 'bumpy" at idle, while heavier flywheels provide silky-smooth road performance and slow, even idle. It depends on what you're seeking. My flywheel gears were OK, so I only had it resurfaced when the car was rebuilt. When I have the option again I might go for a slightly lighter unit, to allow the engine more 'snappy' performance. I once changed to a really lightweight aluminum flywheel on my old BMW motorcycle, and it took off like a BSA or Triumph. I lost that BMW signature smooth, gentle "tsunami" power band, but gained an instant "spike" of revs as soon as I opened the throttle. It's hard to picture anyone pulling a wheelie with a 600cc BMW, but I could when I wanted! |
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| Author: | Reverend [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 6:48 am ] |
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True! All the side gears were okay too. I know a guy here who has lightened flywheel in his 510 and its FAST, but driving it in the city is hard, cause it stalls all the time when not given enough gas. I prefer "cruising" I think lightening also effects on low end torque.
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| Author: | Frank T [ Wed Oct 10, 2012 8:02 am ] |
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[I think lightening also effects on low end torque.] Wellll, not actually. Technically, "torque is a twisting or turning effort which may or may not result in motion". It's determined by the length of the piston stroke, applied over the length of the crankshaft throw (determined in "moments"), times the number of cylinders and combined force of each application (how hard each piston pushes down on the crank throw). I have the formula for it somewhere. Lightening the flywheel would have no effect on torque ~ you could even remove the flywheel without changing the torque. But what you WOULD change would be momentum and/or potential energy. The flywheel acts as a "storage reservoir" for energy ~ the heavier it is, the easier it becomes to keep the engine running. What's in motion tends to remain in motion. Like your friend's 510, the lighter the wheel the harder they idle and quicker they stall. Many old bi-plane aircraft had self-starters which relied on that principal. The lone pilot inserted a hand crank into the side of the fuselage near the engine, and wound-up a heavy 'millstone' starter wheel inside. Once it was spinning, he pulled the crank out, climbed into the cockpit and engaged the clutch to the spinning 'millstone', which in turn spun the engine until it started. The heavier the 'millstone', the longer it continued spinning after the engine started (and acted like a gyroscope until it stopped. You can see old films of biplanes taking off and 'jogging' as soon as they get into the air, until the pilot corrects for it). Lighter starter wheels stopped spinning sooner, but might stall before they started the engine. So lightening the flywheel effects momentum, not torque. |
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