If you do opt to blow out the lines,you could use nitrogen instead of compressed air...

Hi Carl

Yes there is a pocket but the MSA belt does not fit/it's not meant to be there. It would seem logical that the aftermarket belt would go in the place of original but for some reason MSA decieded otherwise. Package included about 3" long aluminum rod that is attached to original nuthole. Second end of that rod is attached to retractor. Also i have to make a cut in the carpet because of that.

Oh... I see. That is not a such a good solution from MSA.

Perhaps you could re-locate the seat belt retractor and bolt it to the top of the rear shock tower. That would work, but it wouldn't look very good..

Or put a small metal plate {maybe 1/8" thick and 3" x 5" wide} - on each side of the upright surface {behind the seat - that goes up to the rear deck area} - thus making a reinforcing sandwich that you could bolt in place - - then bolt the retractor to that. You can reach that area though the tool pockets. That might give you a few more inches to push the seat back..

Just a thought...
Carl B.

Yeah well i just have to accept that these seatbelts are what they are. They are tougher than the originals so im quite sure they offer better protection.

I've made few test drives (for the joy and for the pleasure of neighbours) and i seem to have a problem (another!) with carbs. I can rev the engine to its peak when parked but when moving...i cant push pedal to the metal or even halfway or it stalls and dies. It stutters and jerks when i try to accelerate. Especially between 1500-3000rpms.

Also starting is an issue. Even warm or cold weather it'll take from 2-5 minutes to start and after that it runs rough until it's warm. After that it starts like a dreamcar.

This really should go in the Tech Talk area - so more people will see the discussion and maybe add their input. So I'll copy it over there and give you my perspectives..

Carl B.

1. Did you ever work out that problem with your rear brakes? Might they still be causing a constant drag on your engine while you're trying to accelerate? I can cause my engine to buck and stall under acceleration by forgetting to release the handbrake when I leave.

If the brakes are free (you'll know if you can coast downhill, engine off, and not hear or feel the brakes dragging) then you have either carburettor or ignition adjustment problem.

2. The great thing about these engines is that only a simple adjustment often 'fixes' them. You will have to ensure your distributor is free to advance inside (you can move the advance plate by sucking on the air hose), that the points are in good condition and set at the proper gap, that the condenser is new or working well, that the rotor and cap are in good mechanical/electrical condition, and that your timing is set correctly. Never, never use Champion spark plugs. Use NGKs or Nippon Densu plugs in the proper heat range with correct gap.

The SUs should be examined to ensure the vacuum pistons rise and fall smoothly and in unison, that they are tuned together and that the linkage and choke cables do the same thing to each carb simultaneously.

This will prove to be a small problem. Finding it will be tougher than fixing it.

Take your time, work methodically and eliminate one possibility at a time ~ you'll get this fixed within a few hours.

Frank

Hi Frank!

After spending few hours with the carb im quite sure that the problem might lie on that ignition advance. I havent tested it yet but if it is broken, it cant be repaired? i have to order a new one?

I couldn't remove the drums as they were so stuck. Brakes are not dragging i can push the car with my finger, it's so light!(compared to Volvo) Im afraid that the problem lies in master vac but i can't be sure of that.

Thanks for the nice hints.

btw. Frank, package is on it's way to mail



edit. few days ago i was driving around block with z, testing it. After i parked it an old grey-haired man came to me. He said "i was one of the first mechanics maintenancing these in Finland back in 70's, this is an extraordinary car!" What are the odds?!?! Wife also reported that few of our neighbours (we live in 2 store rowhouse) had been peeking inside of my Z. That car sure attracts attention, when driving it feels like there is huge LOOK AT ME!! sign on top of the car.

You can get used to that attention, my brother ~ it comes with the car. There is simply something appealing about a Z. I have heard it follows some 'magic formula' for pleasing dimensions: something about 1/3, 2/3? Can't recall the old Greek formula which described it.

Your distributor is not difficult to work on, but it is slightly complicated. Basically, you must ensure the internal parts (which advance the spark at the proper time) move freely.

May I assume you are still using the standard (stock) breaker/condenser ignition system? If your car has been converted to an Electronic ignition, none of what I am about to say will apply.

Inside your distributor you have two types of timing advance mechanisms, a vacuum advance and a mechanical (centrifugal force) advance. You can only test the vacuum advance without a machine.

Pop the distributor cap off and pull the end of the vacuum advance hose off the carburettor. Suck on the end of the hose while watching the distributor rotor. The rotor should *(SHOULD)* move a few degrees, then spring back when you stop.

If it doesn't, you've located your problem (or at least one of them).

While your into the distributor (or the 'dizzy', as our Australian members call it), you can check the cap for dirt, cracks, of "bridges" btwn terminals under the cap.

Try all that and tell us what you find, and we'll go from there.

Thanks for the tips! I gotta do that as soon as i can. Now i gotta focus on my Volvo, it didn't pass inspection... o2's were too high (exhaust leak) and lots of other minor things.

Sheesh! Got the Volvo through inspection. All i got to do was change muffler (took about 5hrs) and change handbrake shoes and renew various steering parts etc etc. Doing all this took total 13 hours.

Now it's back on the road. Now i gotta get back to Z!

I got Volvo parts too. 95 850 turbo

WE GOT THE HOUSE! We bought a house with 3 (!?!) garages. There is plenty of room for my Z, 150Y and Volvo. House is in great condition, only the garage (suprise) needs attention. New roof (interior), new wall platings etc

Lately i havent been able to do much with the Z as i have to wait till i got more funds to buy new brake master cyl and flow meter but as soon as i get the Z in its new home i began to fix it. My intention is to make it driveable in the end of July.

Greetings from Sweden! Im back in business and while i was gone i got 3 boxes from States. One having the correct screws for balance tube and Uni-syn flowmeter, one included brand new brake master cylinder and last had rebuilded brake cylinders.

I've already installed all but the second passenger side brake cylinder. After that only thing i need to do is secure the windshield and then Z is ready to rock and roll! Hopefully weather is warm in next few weeks as it has been for the whole summer. It has been like in California, hot and dry

Hopefully driveable soon, I bet you can't wait. I know that feeling very well, as well as others. Once your driving the Z, it will be so exciting the heat won't matter, but maybe A/C next project.

Diveable Datsun? Hmmm..yes it do look like a submarine