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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 12:04 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:11 am
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Location: Finland
There it is, waiting for cleaning and new paint. There must be at least quarter inch of grease and dirt over the engine block, its not gonna be easy to clean. Then i got to hunt down a paint that matches the original engine colour.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2012 7:10 am 
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Location: CT
Progress!!

:D

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 7:25 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 8:11 am
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Location: Finland
Well, time flies! I have been doing a slow progress with the Z, mostly sanding and cleaning the engine bay. Maybe 1hr a day max, i got no rush with this. New rear end has finally arrived, it needs a sandblasting and powdercoating but the interior is in fine shape.

Currently there is so cold outside (-24C) that working in garage is almost impossible (its not heated...LOL) but i keep myself warm by thinking the coming driving season.. You see i got little upgrade coming. All i can say that there is three of them, and they are made in Italy :lol: Any guesses? 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 8:23 am 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 9:24 am
Posts: 1373
Location: Webster, NY
Reverend wrote:
There it is, waiting for cleaning and new paint. There must be at least quarter inch of grease and dirt over the engine block, its not gonna be easy to clean. Then i got to hunt down a paint that matches the original engine colour.


FYI, CHRYSLER engine blue is very close to the Nissan blue. You'd have to have them side by side to tell the minute difference.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 9:59 am 
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Location: CT
YAYYYY, you bought Webers!! :D

OK, so you will triple Goldie's breathing capacity. Don't forget to have your distributor re-curved for mechanical advance only, or the engine won't run well at idle. You don't really need vacuum advance for Webers, anyway, since you'll be setting the ignition at about 15*BTDC. Contact our member Bryan Little for more info about that (Bryan 'at' ctzcc, or zee his Weber section on TheDatsunZGarage.com).

In the meantime, pleaZe tape over those portholes on the head, or you'll find mouse nests in some of the cylinders this Spring (really! that's happened!)

Are your Webers 'real' Italians (I hope), or did you buy the cheaper Philippine-made Spanish copies?

Will you raise the compression and replace the cam to match the increased intake now?

You've got me excited with your plans! :twisted:

Frank T

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 11:48 am 
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Location: Finland
Haha, i will eventually do all those you described when i got the dough. Lack of that sadly slows this wonderful hobby, but all in time. I was also planning to buy that MSA 6-1 header and performance exhaust.

I'm not really sure where these webers are made, cause i dont have them yet. I did a fair trade and got them by sending a LD28 crankshaft to the guy who owns those carbs, now i just got to hope i have not been scammed. He seems legit but you'll never know.

People from the west coast have really speak good word about Isky cams so i might look in to those, we have many experienced cam grinders here too so that option is still open.

Yea, the electric part of triple transformation worries me most, i dont really understand jack squat about that area. I still like SU's and i can always sell those carbs so i might keep the dizzy i have, then another one is needed for triples. Fun times ahead :P

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2012 12:02 pm 
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Location: CT
I am essentially doing the same thing to my car, except that I have an L28 engine (0.20"/.5mm overbored) and a very expensive "trick" head which I'm installing in it this winter. I have bought an Isky cam and lightweight valve train because of all the good things I hear about them from more-experienced Z owners, but I am making sure my compression is up to about 10.5-11:1. I don't want a hotrod or a race car, just a very good street car with about 220hp, no more. My Webers are true Italians and I will re-use the rebuilt electronic distributor I have on my L24 now. It has the PerTronix conversion on it and works fine on SUs. I will send it off to have the mechanical advance re-curved while the L28 is being assembled, and should have it back in time to install in the car when the engine needs it.

Hey ~ with any luck (and enough money), you and I might both have our carz ready at the same time!! :lol:

Frank T

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 4:37 am 
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Location: Finland
I think you might get ahed of me 8) I might drive first quarter or half the season with SU's, i got few improvements on them too (SM needles and bigger jets) but eventually Webbers are the way to go. Its Old Skool but i like it, many Z owners here put Megasquirts+turbos etc in their cars, which might produce more HP's, but like you said Frank, im doing a street car, not a hot rod :D

Guess im looking for another dizzy now.. any hints? 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 10:48 am 
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Location: CT
My only hint would be that it's *usually* far cheaper to have your own dizzy upgraded for Webers, than it is to buy a whole new unit.

Here, it would cost about $100 to have the points/condenser changed over to the PerTronix electronic unit (it just attaches to your old dizzy), and probably another $100 or so to have the mechanical weights re-curved to take over for the eliminated vacuum advance. From Finland, I would guess there would be shipping in both directions to add to that price.

There might (might) be cheaper ways to do all that, if we explored them. If I have a spare 240 dizzy laying around, we could start our own covert scheme. 8)

I'll look around.

F

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2012 3:15 pm 
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Location: Finland
I currently have custom no-points dizzy, made by local mechanic and race car tuner. Its very good, but i dont want to "ruin" it if i ever want to use SU's again. That's why second dizzy would be nice :D It costs 60 bucks here to do the no-points conversion, not too bad i think 8)

UNLESS you can somehow turn those settings back to the way they used to be, then no other dizzy is needed :P

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 5:13 am 
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Location: Finland
Dang.. life wont always go like in the movies. I got those triples but it turned out that they actually were pair of DCOE18's plus one DCOE149 which is WAY newer than those 2. So now i got pair and a single.

I got 2 options. Either to get one more 18-series or just sell all these buggers.

Image

by the way, that booklet came with the package... 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 7:50 am 
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Location: CT
:? Hmmmm.....

Well, if any of them say Made in Italy, you could ask at least $500 for it from anyone with a Harley Davidson motorcycle (been offered that much for as many of mine as I would be willing to sell). Those marked made in Spain or no location markings at all are maybe worth $200-300 each (guess).

Or, you could sell the matched two to someone with a 4cyl engine.
Do you have any kind of manifold with these yet?

F

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 8:24 am 
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Location: Finland
Those 2 are made in Italy, i dont know about that one. 18 series originates from 60's so its the real stuff. I suspect that those 149's are Spanish as the latest Webers are 152's.

Those 2 also missed auxiliary venturis and chokes... :cry:

Anyone got spares..? lol

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 11:51 am 
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Location: Finland
Hi all! Some minor update, i've installed new diffy today (with the help of my lovely wife), that was no easy job... dang that weights a lot! Engine bay is painted with primer and its waiting for warmer days. Also rebuilt my precious SU's, as im still for the lookout for that 18-series Weber. I think they came out pretty nice :)

Image

And here is my precious 5-speed knob ;) A rare item it seems.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 14, 2009 9:24 am
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Location: Webster, NY
Reverend wrote:

And here is my precious 5-speed knob ;) A rare item it seems.

Image


Nah, it's not rare at all, very common.

WANNA SELL IT???? :wink:

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