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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:12 pm
Posts: 30
Location: milford, ct
In process of replacing rockers & lower rear qtr. dog legs on a '74 260z. Started on the passenger side where I have most of the welds cut, but appears door needs to be removed to finish cutting welds & removal. At first glance door removal seems to be a bugger, since all electrical harness & fuse items appear to be in the way. Anyone have any insight/pointers on the door removal &/or the rocker removal/replacement process. Also any pointers on spot weld removal? Have been using a spot weld cutter, but some welds are not very visible & also have drilled through on a couple. Anyone use some other process for weld removal?

My 260 has an early production date. so it is pretty similar to late '73 240.
Thanks - Harry


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2015 7:40 am 
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 9:34 pm
Posts: 362
Location: Hamden, CT
To remove the door you should remove the bolts in the front of the door edge, not the ones that affix to the body. Otherwise you'll need to relign the door. Its tight getting in to remove them, but if you remove the front fender a socket on an extension will reach them. I used a floor jack under the door to support it as I removed it.

I started using a spot drill but gave up and used a sawzall to cut close to the seams, and then used an angle-grinder to grind the remaining bits off. Here's a 'tutorial' on how I did mine.

TIP: to get the door back on lightly screw a 8mmx30mm threaded stud in the top and bottom hinge holes on the door edge. This lets you push and align the door onto the hinges and get the other bolts started. This saved me an hour of cussing.

http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7091&start=15

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 2:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 2:12 pm
Posts: 30
Location: milford, ct
Bryan -
Thanks for the info. I'm going to give sawzall technique a try, can't be worse that the spot weld cutter approach. Looked at door after I read your message, your suggestion seems a lot easier than removal from the body side. Reason I approached from the body side is because this was method specified in door removal section of the shop manual. Their instructions must be geared to total removal, including hinge assembly. At least I learned something, worth asking for advice from people who have tackled the issue before. I'm sure the stud tip will come in handy too.
Thanks for the help - Harry


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