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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 11:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
You're beginning to bond with your Z.

It's a lifetime experience, and even failures have their rewards. In a year from now, you'll be giving advice on this website. :wink:

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1970 240Z


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2011 10:55 pm
Posts: 83
Location: Westport, CT
I have a 5 speed 280ZX (1980) and there is no clutch safety switch. Fires up in any gear position, clutch up or down. Relays are so cheap I think it makes more sense to replace the 35 year old stuff rather than hoping your electrician checks them correctly. RockAuto sell them at low prices, but double-check the catalog photo against the one you are replacing. They have at least one catalog error that caught me. I think the ignition switch on the steering column lock is cheap, too. That part controls all manner of circuits including whether the engine gets fuel.

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1980 280ZX 2+2
2003 350z Touring
2005 350Z Touring - Silverstone Gray
CT plate PHILSZ


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:26 am
Posts: 13
Location: Poughquag, New York
OK,

Billy (mechanic) tested the ignition relay, dismantled, tested, reassembled, and re-tested it. It works fine.

Possibilities left:

Ground to ignition relay might have gone bad. I will test.
Power (2 constant and 2 triggered by ignition) to ignition relay might not exist. I will test. The constant comes from 2 fusible links and connector C9 (on the wiring schematics)
Power to the ignition switch. I will test.
Faulty ignition switch. I will bring to Billy to test.

One issue that I have been concerned about is when looking at the metal above the fuse box and ignition relay area, it contains a significant amount of rust. When I ran it through the car wash after I trailered it home (looked white from all the salt), some water had collected on the carpetr in this area. I wonder what components of the electrical system have been comprimised.

By the way, this is not frustrating me. I am learning quite a bit. It is nice to have a puzzle to think about and play with a little.

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1978 280Z


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
The rust rings bells for me.

If you remove your windscreen wipers and then remove your cowl cover, you can look around in there to see if the bottom has rusted thru anyplace. That could allow rain (which you said you had) to drip down into the electrical connections behind the dashboard. If you can't repair any rusted-thru areas immediately, at least seal them closed until you can do a better job on them. Remove any leaves or mud which you might find in there.

A hair dryer will help dry out any wet electronics you can reach under the dash.

And by the way, because you're new at this, don't make the mistake of confusing the steering lock with the ignition switch. The switch itself is attached to the bottom of the key/lock mechanism and is very simple to remove and replace. It looks like this (see picture).

All the key does is lock the steering wheel and turn that little slot in the ignition switch to the desired position.


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File comment: I think these cost about $20
280z ignition switch.jpg
280z ignition switch.jpg [ 21.5 KiB | Viewed 9843 times ]

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1970 240Z
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 2:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:26 am
Posts: 13
Location: Poughquag, New York
Thanks for the tip, the only time the car got wet was in the car wash. I'm fortunate to have it in the garage.

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1978 280Z


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:26 am
Posts: 13
Location: Poughquag, New York
The ground to the ignition relay is fine. Three of the power leads going into the ignition relay read 12.30 volts. One reads only 11.41 volts. This wire leads back to a fusible link through connector #C9.

The wire powering the ignition switch reads 12.30 volts. I did not remove the ignition switch for testing yet.

The wire (white with red tracer) which powers the combination switch
Pulled connector C9, only reads 11.43 volts. This wire leads back to a fusible link through connector #C9.

I checked connector C9. 11.13 and 11.14 volts for the wires which lead to the two power leads with insufficient voltage listed above.

I checked the fusible links. 2 read 12.30 volts and the two read 11.47 and 11.48.

Wondered why voltage was low for two of these links because all four go to the starter. Battery to starter =12.30 volts.

I removed the positive battery cable at the starter and the cable leading to the fusible links. I cleaned the connectors (a bit of corrosion). When I re-attached these cables I tightened the nut too much and snapped the copper bolt off. Dumb move, now I need a new starter.

The fix will be on hold until I replace the starter.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 12:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14779
Location: CT
Call Vinny. He's got spares.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
:( I hate when that happens. For now you can get your lights to work. This has nothing to do with the ignition switch. The other power wire to the fuse block/fuse links is all you need for now. You can turn your lights on with out the key in......normally. So turn them on, and start wiggling connection, unplug and replug, take the light switch move it back and forth, (on/off) real fast many times........if you find it that way lights will come on. How is the main ground wire from battery to ground? You have a lot of connections on the passenger side, some are hidden, even behind the fender I believe.....then in the inside of the car, all those connections in the White plastic holder. Once you get your lights to work.....then see what happens. Always keep in mind One issue can cause many symptoms, Or One symptom can be from multiple issues. :?


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:26 am
Posts: 13
Location: Poughquag, New York
Back in the race!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Due to an illness in the family and some other issues taking up my time, I was not able to pay any attention to the Datsun for about four weeks. I was too frazzled by the end of the day to focus on trouble shooting the car. Last weekend I replaced the starter, reconnected everything and started fresh. The car had two problems. The first was the wiring. the wire which splits into four and runs between the starter and the fusible links was corroded. It also had a very poor factory splice job. Two of the fusible links were receiving lower voltage (low 11s). This prevented the headlights from turning on. I replaced this wiring with new 10 AWG wire and good splices. The second issue was the ignition switch was starting to go. Ignition switch replaced.

Thanks to all!! Back to the site after a little hiatus.

-Rich

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2014 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 9:46 pm
Posts: 49
Location: Simsbury
I had similar issues with that terrible factory splice job. I did what is outlined in the following link and it works better.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusi ... index.html


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