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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 3:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:36 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Topsfield MA - Fairfield CT
Awesome - Thanks! More of a job then I really want to take on right now... but gotta do it if I want to race-

Ill look into that self locking nut to see if it will work on the 510 or if they have something similar.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:35 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Always press them in, no hammering. Use lots of Red Locktight. Rock Auto had Timkin Bearings for the 240, maybe for the 510 would be good.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:53 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:36 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Topsfield MA - Fairfield CT
I just ordered my bearings from NAPA - $18 a piece and they can get me them same day- ordered before 11 and I will have them by 2:30 -

280 axle nuts will work on a 510 so I ordered a pair of those and a pair of the grease seals- although decided i am only going to replace the passenger side bearing since the driver side is fine and once I got the half shaft off I could see it had been changed before... somebody ground down on the stub axle :(

Also went over to Sears to pick up a 27mm socket... Ended up with a set of impact sockets... of course I dont have a gun yet... so breaker bar it will be- need to go to home depot and get two big ass steel bars- one for the breaker bar and one to brace the studs/hub- going to thread the lugs back on there to protect the threads

Yea definitely not for hammering- going to try the freeze/heat method to get the bearing on the spindle and rent a bearing press to get the other one in the trailing arm- if I run into trouble with the spindle bearing there is a press at work that I can probably get one of the guys to do it for me


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 7:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Well NAPA dont make parts, so as long as they're from a reliable company. I only buy Timkins if I can, and most of the time I can. NAPA can get you a single socket, but hey, now you have a set. I dont use an impact on those nuts anyways, only because if you screw up the threads on the stub axle, then the pain of finding one shall start. If your brakes grab good, I apply the brake, then use my torches to heat up the nut and it comes off with ease. I also soak it days before with PB blaster. At least use the PB if you dont have torches.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 5:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:36 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Topsfield MA - Fairfield CT
Nut came off super easy- no damage to the stub axle threads. Just ground down the peens till where that edge of nut was almost gone-

Just waiting on the parts now- Bearings come in on wednesday- stub axle nut tomorrow- and I ordered a new washer and half shaft flange bolts that will be in on Wed-

I see DatzunZ pulled his whole trailing arm- I would like to leave mine on- question is what order did you press the bearings in... Ie did you do one on the stub axle and one in the trailing arm? or both in the trailing arm? seems like it would be tough to get the spacer right if both were pressed into the trailing arm...


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 Post subject: re:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 9:34 pm
Posts: 362
Location: Hamden, CT
Pull the stub out and you'll see. The outer bearing and stub pull out one side, the inner bearing and seal from the other side. To reassemble you'll need to press the outer bearing back onto the base of the stub first...but you don't need to press everything back into the strut...it all goes back in by hand...the hub is gets sandwiched between the two when you tighten the nut.

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Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 7:20 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:36 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Topsfield MA - Fairfield CT
Thats how it came apart- so thats sorta what I assumed- seems like a bit of a tight fit thought to push the bearing/stubaxle assembly into the trailing arm by hand - and I think ill need a rod style press to get the inner bearing into the trailing arm

I guess if there is enough thread showing though you could tighten it all up that way-

thanks for the verification

I just want to get her back on the ground!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2013 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:44 am
Posts: 588
Location: New Haven, CT
^ Good to know I'm not the only guy absolutely scrambling to get my car ready for this weekend... Good luck man!

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Justin
1986 Z31 NA 2+0


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2012 2:36 pm
Posts: 180
Location: Topsfield MA - Fairfield CT
Wahoo - Got it all back together last night! Had to get a little creative to press the bearing into the trailing arm- but it all went in and feels tight-

Now just need to bleed/adjust the breaks- but that doesnt pertain to this topic since my rears are drums-

Thanks for the help DatsunZ for the help walking through this


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2008 5:53 pm
Posts: 14781
Location: CT
*(DatsunZ = Bryan Little, one of the foremost Z authorities on the East Coast, and author of the highly acclaimed www.DatsunZGarage.com website. Bryan has been an officer in other Z clubs around the country and was one of the earliest members of the CTZCC, being present when it was founded. We are fortunate indeed to have him among us).

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1970 240Z


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 8:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
So after all the Spring cleaning and yard work and getting ready for summer and fixing everyone's car......................I finally started. :thumbs_up: Well, put it up on jack stands last night, removed tires, and removed drums. I don't think I need to take pictures yet. :? I will update my progress.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:54 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
So I managed to get one side done this week, finally started on it this weekend. All went well, now going to the other side. I'll post the pics and talk more about next week while on vacation. I hope to have this done this week, because when I get back I have basically a week to get ready for ZCON. Just have to rebuild my carbs, tune it up a little, and clean it up. That's all I had time for this year. next year will be interior make over with my new dash, then a paint job......but it never ends. :shock:


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 Post subject: Done
PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
Going out today and bleed the brakes, then attach E-brake cables.....then test drive. :D may all go well. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:31 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
OK, easier said than done.......but NOW done. Putting tires on and test driving. At first I was going to do as said, but I figured I would just go ahead and install the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I thought I was clever and bought the one with Metric thread......but it is Bubble Flare, and our cars are double flare. I'll draw up a diagram of my details, but long story short, bought a new double flare tool, and made up some lines. Also had to remove Booster, (280z,) and get the reaction disc back in place, BUT, good thing is I was able to use a 300ZX Master Cylinder. I had one in like new shape, I think it was a reman, but I happen to have 2 rebuild kits on my bench anyways, so I rebuilt that, and adjusted the rod, and installed the master on the bench and installed as a unit, so all was perfect. Pics to come. I feel a good Z day today. because the next 2 show rain. zcon 7 days away. :D :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 12:28 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jul 23, 2008 2:38 pm
Posts: 3411
Location: rhode island
So far so good......I think I'm taking her out to dinner tonight. :D :thumbs_up:


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