If I remember right the rim of the 240 z steering wheel was actually plastic with a rather realistic looking faux wood finish. I removed the leather cover of the steering wheel and I'm sure it's wooden, no plastic. Unless I'm much mistaken. Did Nissan also offer wooden steering wheels for the Z in the early Seventies?

Thor

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T. Link
Germany
1971 240z (HLS30-16506)

I know it looks so much like wood, I thought it was until years later, but In all there might be a possibilty there is, maybe very early ones. It's a question I'd like know for sure myself.

We had a good class on this during one of our spring monthly meetings last year. A guy who restores steering wheels and road wheels came up from New Jersey and showed us how he does it. He is a master craftsman and his work is stunning.

The original 240Z steering wheel rims were a compressed composite made of wood fibers and plastic resin. All-wood wheels have been banned for production cars in the USA because they shatter in collisions and give you splinters (as if I would care about that after wrecking my Z! ). You can still buy good aftermarket wooden steering wheels (NARDI are beautiful and functional) but they are no longer allowed as production items.

At least that's what the expert told us. If that's wrong, I invite the straight scoop. (Carl?)

I always felt the original 240 wheel was too skinny to give me good road feel and control, and I always used at least one (and sometimes two) steeringwheel gloves stretched over the wheel.

Installing a wooden wheel such as a NARDI (there are others, too) gives you far better control, looks beautiful, but can be problematical when trying to wire the horn button.

Frank

Frank, what did the expert tell you about restoration? Can you restore the rim if it is that wooden/plastic/resin mixture like a genuine wood rim in view of sanding and coating?
Or is this difficult respectively risky?

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T. Link
Germany
1971 240z (HLS30-16506)

Thor (et al),

Frank is correct, the 240Z steering wheel is a plastic resin mixed with wood fibers and molded to the correct shape. Since it does contain real wood, it looks very much like all wood. It's been fooling people for years!

I restored my original wheel, it is not difficult. Most are just plain dirty. Start by gently cleaning the wheel with a mild detergent or a grease cutter such as Simple Green. Do not use anything harsh. Then I wet sanded the wheel GENTLY with the finest grit sandpaper I could find. Be very careful not to go too deep! At this point, the color and woodgrain should really pop back out. Then several coats of clear polyurethane or lacquer gently sprayed on, allowing sufficient drying time between coats.

The spokes can be sanded down and repainted with satin black.

That's it!

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John Taddonio
1970 240Z
1977 530Z
1984 300ZXT
zcarnut@hotmail.com
FB: Zccr zcarclubofrochester

Ja, his work was expensive. But the result was OUTSTANDING ~ better even than new.

I think he began with a gentle acid bath on the rim, but maybe someone else remembers it better than I do?

I recall his PERFECT steeringwheel restoration cost about $200. But the sample steeringwheels he showed us were magnificent and worth that price. I remember wondering how fast I could run, carrying one of his samples!

Thanks for all your help and tips.
This club is unbeatable....



We have a good sandblast expert here. I introduced him in the secrets of the Datsun steering wheel. He knows now what to do to make it peachy. I will present you the result when the job is done.

Thor

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T. Link
Germany
1971 240z (HLS30-16506)

Good Luck!

I tried sandblasting a 240Z steering wheel two years ago, and didn't like the way it came out. I gave it away.

Hi Thor:
I've restored several 240Z Steering Wheels. Just to add to the discussion....

I use a chemical stripper on the spokes to remove the old finish. On many of them, I found that the factory had used a body filler, to fill minor surface imperfections in the metal. That is best left in place if possible. If you strip it off - then you have to refill and sand etc. etc.

Once the metal is stripped, it just takes a minor clean up with lacquer thinner - and sanding with very fine wet sandpaper. Then a coat of primer, sanded and a second coat of primer - and it should be ready for paint. Semi-gloss black.

As pointed out above - the wheel rim is wood fiber/epoxy. I sand them down to remove all traces of the original finish. At that point they will take a wood stain if you want to control the look of the final outcome. Originally - these wheels ranged in color/hue from a light walnut to a darker cherry. While you can't really change the color - you can enhance the color and/or move it a shade or two - with a matching wood stain.

After you have the wheel sanded/stained - I recommend using a marine spar varnish for the finish. It reacts less to the oils from your hands than the polyurethane and lacquers.

Its two or three hours of actual hands on work - and a couple of days drying times between coats of primers, stains, paints. Kind of fun actually, to see the finished result take place at your hands.

FWIW,
Carl B.

Here is an article from the Fall 2001 Sport Z Magazine that covers all the refurb points brought out by John T and Carl. Makes me real glad I saved all my back issues.

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Jim Arnett
Richardson, Texas
HLS30-15320 12/1970 (original owner)
ZCON 2015 Gold Cup - Street Modified class

I like the wooded look better

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Broken Z's make me sad