After a year into this process I finally have a refurbished rolling chassis. Last week I was able to bolt up all of the rear end components and declare a small victory. Here are some shots of the effort to-date.

First off is the engine bay with wiring harness, fuel and hydraulic lines, and a few miscellaneous bits installed. The rebuilt front suspension is also bolted in.


A front quarter shot of the engine bay, front suspension, and body-colored brake caliper waiting on new dancing shoes.


The differential and half-shaft assembly prior to install. The diffy got new seals and a paint job. The silver end-cover also has clear coat to try and keep it looking fresh. New U-joints in the half-shafts but I did not break down the half-shaft internals. The boots were in like-new condition and everything operated smoothly so I adopted the "if not broke..." approach.


Here is the diffy assembly installed. Hand-brake cables were temporarily hung on the moustache bar to keep them out of the way.


... and the rear suspension installed. All mounting bolts were buffed then sprayed with clear coat after installation.


Prior to the above installs, the wheel wells were painted in the same big box paint I had mixed for the interior floorboards. When thinned with Penetrol it had a great flow and an excellent gloss finish.


Finally, a shot of the rear strut assembly with brakes hooked up.


I keep a detail spreadsheet on all costs to-date. That same sheet has a running list of all needs as they are identified. Here are the parts costs for this phase:
Suspension - $860
Brakes - $233 (includes a new master cylinder not yet installed, still need to buy a rebuilt booster)
Drivetrain - $105 (differential and half-shafts only)

In addition to the parts costs are supplies, welder rental, and some shop labor. So far this adds up to over $800 during the past year.

Currently underway is the cabin insulation effort, a post on that soon.

_________________
Jim Arnett
Richardson, Texas
HLS30-15320 12/1970 (original owner)
ZCON 2015 Gold Cup - Street Modified class

Jim

That's just bee-yoo-zee-ful stuff.
Check out logan1's thread on sound deadening under Body/Styling/Appearance. Heartily approved by several members.

Al

(Spent 27 yrs in Austin/Houston '79-'07)

Excellent buildup, very well done. The differential and halfshafts are especilaly nice...too clean to use!

_________________
Bryan Little
Datsunzgarage.com

1970 240Z - enhanced F54 L28 w/P90, Weber DCOEs, 4:11 R200, Nissan T5 5-speed

Ain't that gorgeous? I wouldn't know whether to drive it or hug it!

Very nice and I saw something I need! Where did you source your SS lines from? I used classictubes years back but their prices have gone through the roof! I have some lines but I think for fuel I am going to run braided SS lines and for brake I would like to keep the SS lines...only problem is I do not have any for a series 1 car. There is no prop valve on the firewall and it has a funky setup in the rear of the car.

Anyway your car looks amazing!

_________________
Clive Bogle President - New York Z Car Club - NYZCC.COM
1971 240Z - LS1/T56
1974 260Z-L30
1976 Fairlady Z

(There shouldn't have been a proportioning valve on the firewall. It should have been ahead of the brake master cylinder, down by the frame rail).

Hi Frank/Clive:
Actually - that valve down by the front frame rail - is a "Switch" and has an electrical connection to it. It is there to measure the pressure applied to the lines - and when they are in proper balance nothing happens. When the pressure switch senses an out of balance condition - it lights up the "BRAKE" light on your dash.

The brake pressure proportioning valve on the 69 through 72 240Z's is located at the rear of the car - just ahead of the block that sends brake fluid to the right and left side wheel cylinders. For the 1973 Model year a newly designed brake pressure proportioning valve was mounted on the firewell.

Anyone with a 73 - better hope they don't have to replace that valve. As I recall the last one I bought was around $300.00. It that case it REALLY pays to flush your entire brake system with new fluids once a year at least...

edit - Just did a search at NissanParts.cc and yes, the list the part at $318.00 . Was 46400-N4200 and is now 46400-P9200.

If anyone finds a 73 in the junk yard - better grab that part!!
FWIW,
Carl B.

Hi Jim:
Your Z is looking really - truly -GREAT. It is GREAT FUN once you get a body shell painted and ready to re-assemble. Enjoy every part restored and reinstalled... This is the best phase of restoration...

kind regards,
Carl B.

As Bryan said. Or rather didn't say. A trailer queen in the making.

Lookin' great, pardner, keep 'er goin'!

All Z Best,..................................Kathy & Rick

_________________
All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

Carl,

I wasn't talking about the switch. I have SS lines from my 73 car which like you stated has the prop valve on the firewall. FYI for everyone, you can rebuild it if you spread it all out on a paper towel and put it back together the way it came apart. This is/was a no no to repair this but hey why spend $300!

Now this has me thinking, I have a brake line setup of a 73 with a 72 booster with a 81 zx brake MC.....hmmm might explain some of my brake issues =)

_________________
Clive Bogle President - New York Z Car Club - NYZCC.COM
1971 240Z - LS1/T56
1974 260Z-L30
1976 Fairlady Z

Hey Clive - those are not SS lines on the car (can I say "fooled you"?). Foolin' aside, those are my original lines completely refinished. All were cleaned, sanded, treated with Metal Ready, painted with metallic aluminum and topped with clear coat. All fittings were taped to protect the threads. A dab of anti-sieze aided the re-assembly. Whew - makes me tired all over. Like you I checked out Classic Tubes and decided to put the $ elsewhere - it will easily pay for the electrical upgrades from MSA: fuse box and harness components.

No trailer/garage queen in the making here! I plan to drive this car when it finally gets completed (but not a daily driver). I'm way too selfish to stand around looking at something, saying how great it is. I need to experience it on a regular basis. Yeah its heresy, but I came out of a 2000 Boxster a year ago with over 100K on the odo!

_________________
Jim Arnett
Richardson, Texas
HLS30-15320 12/1970 (original owner)
ZCON 2015 Gold Cup - Street Modified class

Now yer talkin', pardner! Your car looks like the identical twin to our
#13 car, only nicer. Z's were made to be driven, some would say
driven hard. You should be out in El Paso instead, then you would
hardly ever have to be concerned about rain, only them dadgum
illegals. But I won"t go there........oops, I already did.

All Z Best,......................................Kathy & Rick

_________________
All Z Best,.......Kathy & Rick

1969 Z.CAR (#00013 10/69) 8/30/76
1969 ITSA.Z (#00171 11/69) 8/24/73
1970 OLD.Z (#06289 6/70) original owner
1971 510 2dr since 12/31/75
1969 1600 rdstr (our 160-Z)
1971 (#19851 1/71) sold
1975 75.Z (#01343 1/75)

Wow thatlooks great. Keep up the good work. I can Z there is alotta love going into that one.

_________________
Broken Z's make me sad