Hello my Z family, I need some help. My car motor went due to not doing timing belt on time. I'm debating if I should rebuilt the motor or drop a new one. The car has only around 89,000 original miles. Any suggestions of what would be the best way to go. Thank you.

Sorry to hear that. This is a fairly common occurrence, unfortunately. I've met many members who have had the same disaster happen to their V-6. I've never heard it happen personally, but everyone describes it sounding like a train wreck, with lots of different noises all at once.

Of course you probably already understand what took place in there ~ like most engines today, the V6 is an "interference" engine, which means different parts share the same space at different times. When the timing goes away, many parts try to occupy the same space at the SAME time. Your valves and pistons have had Close Encounters of the Expensive Kind.

Usually what happens during that collision of parts, is that the valves break off and act as shrapnel inside the combustion chambers. Sharp pieces can gouge deep holes into the combustion chamber surfaces, making the heads further unusable except as boat anchors. Same thing happens to the pistons, so they must be replaced too. I guess the determining factor (and direct answer to your question) is whether or not the cylinder walls have been damaged too much to reuse the block. Slight burrs can be honed out and shallow gouges can be overcome by boring the cylinders smooth again. But even a single deep gouge (deeper than you could bore out and still have enough material left to use the engine) would be the kiss of death for that block.

I would contact RDZ and ask them their opinion. They might want to pop the heads off your car and assess the damage before making an estimate. You can call them here: http://rdzmotorsports.com/. They will also attend our Car Show and monthly meeting next month, so you can meet them at either event.

Good luck. Please keep us updated on how this works out?

Frank

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1970 240Z

It would be easier to drop a good engine in. These can still be found around in junk yards. Matter fact, there is one at my local yard. & not 100%, but might be able to use the truck, and suv engine as well. The only thing that I can think different would be oil pan. If it was me, I would go to Gary's U pull it in NY and get an engine guarantee to run for around $200. I haven't found a cheaper place yet. let me know if I can help.

(Paul is a Certified Master Mechanic and totally addicted to Z cars. He has owned several of them and his parts collection is nearly as large as his house).

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1970 240Z

I agree that the simplest, cheap, and easy way to solve your engine problem is to swap in another VG30E. This engine was used in Max's, Z's, Pathy's, trucks, and even Mercury's up to 2000+. The broken timing belt is about the only thing that really kills them, other then running w/o oil. I would view your situation as an opportunity rather than a calamity.
Rather than drop a boot full of $ into your 30E I would be looking for, at least, a 87+ 30E. Best bet, IMO, would be find a VG33e engine. This is virtually identical to the 30 but much improved and far more available for the same $. Its a drop in, bolt up swap with a min. of hassles.
www.Z31Performance.com has everything about your Z.

86na
88t

Pogo, not meaning to hijack this thread, but what you just said sounds like a chance to learn something new.
What's the difference btwn the 30 and the 33 engines? And do all the electronics hook back up without having to change wiring looms?

Frank

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1970 240Z

Actually they are almost the same engines. A larger bore to acheive the increase to 3.3L over the 3.0. The 3.3 uses "OWO" heads which are larger with better flow and some added coolant porting. Manifolds for the 30/33 are the same except for larger studs on the 33. 33 crank has a longer snout than the 30 but OD's are the same. Oil pans interchange (xclnt for Na2T). Looms are almost the same and 88/89 ecu's are programmable. Use of earlier 30e accessories can be accomplished by swapping to the earlier crankshaft and using earlier pulleys. 30e>33e is a much favored upgrade in the Z31 community. Very reliable as a dd and can give ferocious power when turboed.


86na
88t

Thanks! Learned something!

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1970 240Z

Glad to oblige, Frank.
Actually, if my plans for this winter come to fruition, I will have a spare xclnt running VG30e engine, 71C trans, auto trans, 5 lug conversions, open diff, etc. for sale. Gutting the 88T to upgrade the 86na.
Hopefully, spring will see the 86 with a tweaked VG30ET,GT3271 turbo, FMIC, LSD, Fidanza,Centerforce stageII, Z32 30a trans, etc.

......and in my spare time, I can play with my Bonsai's.


86na
88t

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W.Karl Walton
Somers CT



75' - 280Z - HLS30203249 - #304 Gold Metallic (stockish)
96' - 300zx TT - JN1CZ24d3TX960293 - Black on Black (enhanced)

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1970 240Z

Replacing damaged heads with newly rebuilt ones is a time consuming but worthwhile job, not especially "difficult" per se but time consuming and involved. Certainly a lot easier than swapping out the entire block. If you have a motor that was healthy and running well I would expend my energies on a head job rather than roll the dice on a high mileage junkyard motor. Dollar for dollar a better bet. Only caveat to this is if any of the pistons are damaged, in which case a junkyard block would be the move.

I have gone down both roads on several occasions, older & wiser me now opts for the head swap. just my .02 cents